|
|
|
|
|
#16
10-28-2005, 11:03 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Sorry, I didn't see your first post. You could have borrowed mine.
 Glad you running again. We aim to please. 
|
|
#17
10-28-2005, 11:11 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I am happy that it worked out O.K. My tech says that 90% of the times the culprit for hard starts on M119s is the fuel regulator. Quick, easy and cheap to fix, thank goodness.
One thing though: I forgot to mention that it is recommended to change also the No. 8 spark plug when you change the fuel regulator (the cylinder just below it). The hard starts, as mentioned before, are cause by excessive fuel allowed into the cylinder when the regulator goes bad. Hence, the spark plug tends to develop a black patina due to the excessive burning of fuel upon start ups.
__________________
A. Rosich CL 500, 1998  S 500 L, 1998  E 320 T, 1995  [Sadly sold  ]
|
|
#19
10-28-2005, 11:47 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
You are very welcome!
Although, one more comment: I did installed once Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs to my E 320 T. The car right away started to behave terribly. I took it to the dealer and the shop manager warmed me about never using this type of spark plugs on Mercedes-Benz engines. The M.B. shop reverted the Platinums to regular Bosch plugs and everything went back to normal on the wagon, instantly. This happend about five years ago and the shop manager did explained in detail why the Platinums +4s are not convinient, but I vaguely remember the exact facts. It had to do with some about temperature and lenght of the spark top which did not matched well with M.B. engines. Just a comment...
__________________
A. Rosich CL 500, 1998 S 500 L, 1998 E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]
|
|
#21
10-29-2005, 10:55 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ditto Armando's post . . .
. . . you don't want "plats" in your car. Use good old reliable "F8DC4" plugs.
|
|
#23
10-30-2005, 11:17 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Eric: If you are using Platinum +4s on your M119, get rid of them right away!
I am certain that if it doesn't cure your problem completely, at least it will help a lot. As Jim stated: Go back to good-old realiable F8DC4s.
__________________
A. Rosich CL 500, 1998 S 500 L, 1998 E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]
|
|
#24
10-30-2005, 01:09 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Armando,
No, I am not using Platinum +4s. I was wondering if the fuel pressure regulator would correct my problem. Hard start first thing in the morning, and after it has been sitting for more that 10 min. If I turn it off and try to start right away it is OK. Also during idle every few minutes it hesitates then returns to correct idle. What do you think, only started happening a few months ago, only 40k miles on vehicle. Thanks Eric
|
|
#26
10-31-2005, 10:15 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Erick: as you describe your problem, it is definitely the fuel regulator!
As explained above on my previous post, a bad designed membrane ruptures and lets fuel deposit on cylinder No. 8 The fuel deposits over time, that is why you have hard starting problems in the morning or when the car sits off for more than 10 minutes after it has been on. If you have your engine on, turn it off and re-start it again inmediantly, there is no time for fuel to bypass the ruptured membrane on the regulator and flood the No. 8 cylinder. Hence: a perfect start. Change the regulator. It is fast and cheap! Also, don't forget to change your No. 8 spark plug for a new one. Disregard the mileage on your car, my fuel regulator failed with less than 25,000 miles on my car. Finally, about the compurter codes: everytime the car started erratically it would register a code. The tech basically access the data and erase all those codes after changing the regulator, but if you do it or not, it will not affect your engine performance.
__________________
A. Rosich CL 500, 1998 S 500 L, 1998 E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]
|
|
#28
11-01-2005, 11:38 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I've never changed mine yet but it can't be too hard???
Main tool needed is a "snap-ring" pliers --- and --- you will need to let the gas line pressure "out". Use a few rags under the regulator to catch the excess. Other than that it should be easy.
|
|
#29
11-08-2005, 06:05 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Howdy Eric,
Sorry I couldn't get back to your earlier. Yes the FP regulator fixed my problem - Thanks to Jim and Armando. I did not have cold start problems, however after being parked for over 10 minutes (after a short drive) I had to crank it the 2nd time. I still have not reset the codes (too busy the last week) will probabaly do it this weekend..may be put the plugs too- FD9C. It is very easy to replace the FP regulator....here are the steps: 1. Remove the air filter housing completely. 2. FP regulator is located at the right rear corner of the engine (when facing the engine). 3. Undo your gas cap and relieve the pressure. 4. Get a snap ring plier (any local auto store should have it) 4a. Remove the little hose that is connected to the FPR. 5. The snap ring that holds the FPR down has two little holes in it. 6. Insert the little heads of the SRP into the 2 holes simultaneously and (with one hand) compress the ring and with (in the other hand) a screw driver just pry it out. 7. Pry/pull out the FPR. YOu may have some GAS come out..use a cloth underneath. 8. Insert the new FPR into the housing and press it in ..make sure it is properly seated. 9. Reconnect the hose. 10. Put the air filter housing back. You're all DONE. Hopefully this fixes the problem. Good LUck smk_texas 98 S420
|
|
#30
11-08-2005, 06:09 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Eric,
I missed one step...before you connect the hose, please put the snap ring back into the housing....to hold the FPR down. Compress the snap ring and just insert it in. Hope this helps. smk_texas 98 S420
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
