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How to remove cages from the blower motor?
I removed the blower motor from my 1986 190. Any tips on how to get the fragile plastic cages off of the rusted motor shaft?
BTW, the hardest part was getting the damn wiper out of the way, to do this I disconnected the wiper motor from the rest of the unit so I could leave the motor in the car, removing the rest (I could not see any way of getting it out whole). One problem I forsee is finding the correct oreintation on the fine wiper motor splines. Thanks, John
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1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#2
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I have done this on a couple of 107's. Squirt some PB Blaster on both the inner and outer centers. Let it it sit for a couple of hours. Then get vice grips on the shaft, and very gently try to turn and work the cage(s) off the shaft. If they dont move, try some more Blaster.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#3
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John,
First off... nice selection of vehicles. (see vehicles #1 & #3 in my signature). A Nissan T-Diesel??? Very nice swap. Regarding squirl cage removal: Here's a link with good info: http://www.serenitysys.com/MB/Service_Info/W124%20Blower%20Motor/index.htm I also recall reading that it helps to cut the shafts on each side of the motor (with a dremel or hacksaw). That way you have easier/straight access to the cages. I believe this may aid in pressing the shaft out. Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#4
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Thanks! The hacksaw didn't even make a dent in the shaft, but the Dremel with "large" cut off wheel was able to get inside the cages and make a couple angle cuts (like a V).
A socket in the vise and punch to tap the shaft through got them out in no time. Tomorrow I will fit the new motor into place (cages went onto new motor fine; in same orientation as the old one). Yup, I took the entire drivetrain out of a 1980 International Scout II and swapped it onto a 1988 Wrangler frame and tub (YJ) and used a CJ nose. From 1977-1980 the Scouts had an optional Nissan 6-cyl engine, with it's T-19 trans, and D300 T-case. I used the D44 Scout axles too. It took me about 11 months working on it on and off. Some pics: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/676309
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1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#5
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OK, now I recognize you from JU.
I figured for sure I was the only guy with a psycsophrenic enough personality to drive an MB (one of the most refined cars on the road) and a CJ (one of the least refined vehicles ever conceived.) I proudly list the CJ in my signature here -- but I don't list the MB in my JU signature. (I think it would be perceived as pretentious.) The truth is, I frequently find the MB easier to work on than the CJ. See ya around both forums. Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
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