How do you get the Anti lock brake light to go out. Any suggestions. This is a 1986 560SL Mercedes...Thanks

real easy remove the instrument cluster and remove the bulb and it is out.but if you want to fix the problem and you have the get the codes read for the abs.it is usally an abs sensor.sometimes if a fuse is blown from the overvoltage protection relay it will turn the lights on too.good luck Harald

Early MB ABS systems don't have self-diagnostic capability. Back in the good old days we used to use a special socket box tester to check the system thoroughly ( power, ground, pump, valves, etc). However, we found that a simple resistance test of all three wheel speed sensors usually found the problem in a lot less time. Of course, don't overlook the OVP. Good luck.

Not necessarily so. My wheel speed sensors all measure normal resistance, but one produces a much lower AC voltage than the other two. Not a complete failure, but enough to cause anti-lock action on normal stops, and to occasionally light the abs lamp.

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

I have the same problem. I did read (here, on this forum) that the resistance of the dash indicator bulb is part of the system self-test, so it was not advised to remove it.
In my case, the cost of replacing sensor(s) was not worth the benefit, for me, since the car is never driven in winter conditions, and almost as less likely to be caught in a rainstorm panic-stop at high speed. In short, the brakes work fine without it, in my case.
My first fix was to tape over the indicator area on the outside of the cluster with a piece of black electric tape. But even cut perfectly, it bothered me to look at it. Second fix was to tape over the bulb, but the heat melted the tape and let light through anyway. My final fix was to remove the bulb socket entirely from the dash cluster and plug the hole with a bit of black foam, so no light would get through. It shines inside the dash cavity now.
If I ever spy a sensor(s) at a junkyard, I'll try replacing mine.

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Hi Moneypit, I agree with your statement but consider this. The reason the ABS light comes on is because the system sees an open circuit (high resistance) at one of the speed sensors. I should have added that when measuring the resistance of a speed sensor it's a good idea to do some twisting or pulling at the stress points of the sensor cables while watching for changes in resistance. The older 124's had lots of problems like this, especially with the front sensors. MB modified the sensors and mounting brackets to fix it. The improved sensors have cables which are reinforced at the mounting points, reducing the chance of failure.

On your car, the weak sensor probably drops the AC voltage to the point where ABS thinks one wheel isn't turning. That's why the pump comes on and the pedal vibrates. I've found that this usually happens at very low speeds, usually during the last few feet before the car comes to a stop. Nowadays the same problem exists (weak sensors) but causes different symptoms. On later model MB's with traction and stability systems the problem often becomes apparent when driving off from a stop, not when coming to a stop. The system sees three wheels turning faster than the fourth and intervenes. The pump can be heard running and the traction indicator either lights up or flashes. The faulty sensor usually doesn't cause any fault codes to be stored because it's still operating within the parameters of the system. The only way to pin-point the problem is to observe the actual values of ALL the sensors while driving, until the fault occurs.

Well, I get the abs activity when coming to a stop sometimes, but not every time. When I get the ABS lamp lit is usually in the first few yards driving away from a stop. I've not seen a wheel speed sensor signal drop out completely, but I'm pretty sure where my problem lies. All readings taken while idling along in a parking lot.
LF

RF

Rear

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC