1987 190E 2.3 8v

It'll turn over just fine, and try to start, but the only fuel going into the intake seems to be from the cold start valve. I am getting no fuel from the four outlet on top of the fuel distributor. I speculate it's a problem with the EHA valve. Am I understanding right that a bad OVP will/can directly affect the EHA? Could the EHA be plugged up internally?? Should I be able to get some flow through it always?


FWIW, the ICV doesn't seem to do much -- it's always in the same position. Should it open or close when starting, or only if the car is running?

Thanks!!

First if the AFM plate is not sucked down you will not get any fuel from the injectors. Turn the ignition on and press the plate down and see if you get fuel. If the EHA is bad you still will get fuel flow. Just not adjusted the same. The EHA adjusts the pressure diferential between the lower and upper half of the fuel distributor. The fuel injection is Mechanical with some Electronic Control. So if the Electronic Control side fails the Mechanical still will work. If you get fuel flow with the AFM plate pushed down I would then check the AFM to Throttle Body Rubber Boot for cracks causing an air leak thus bypassing the AFM Plate and thus no fuel out the distributor. The AFM plate is what meters and allows fuel flow. As you push it down more fuel is allowed to flow.

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Thank you very much for the reply. About the time I thought I had a small grasp on how it worked, it slipped through my hands!

No problem. Let us know if you get some fuel by pushing down the AFM a hair. If you have an extra person to turn the key and crank for you and you slightly push the AFM plate down and she starts then at least you are getting closer to the issue. On the 190Rev forum there is a whole 15+ page thread about the AFM and adjustment. That is where we found the cracked boot that can be an issue. On cold days the rubber is stiff before startup so it will leak much more if it is cracked. Then it will warm up and become more plyable and thus the car will run. Not well but it will run. I noticed my boot was cracking when I did my head gasket. Not to bad to replace if that is it. 20 bucks for the part and an hour to an two hours depending on ability to replace it. You basically remove the Top Part of the AFM that holds the fuel distributor as an assembly. It is three bolts and disconnect the fuel lines at the injectors and walla it is off. Well you need to unscrew the strap that holds the AFM Boot to the Throttle Body. Then with the AFM off you remove the 12-14 bolts and reverse and you are all set. If it is the problem I would take the time to thouroughly clean everything while apart. I hope that is the problem but if not let us know and we will go further.....

__________________
~Jamie
_________________
2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

With the ignition on, I know I'm getting pressure to the cold start valve. I crack open the connections to the other four injectors and press the plate on the AFM slowly, all the way down. I get nothing out of the four on top of the distributor or at the top of the injectors. Please, don't let it be the distributor!

Any other possible causes?

I had a vacuum hose pop off on the under side of the intake on my 91 2.3. This hose was a hard one to get at, you need a small hand.

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