transmission filter change - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

memario213 · #1 01-03-2006, 05:33 PM

so i have the pan off and i drained the torque converter (not to much oil came out of it), im just letting it fully drain. the oil looks pretty clean but i think it was changed before i bought it at 121,500 miles (i know have 123,500). the filter is dirty.

when i had the transmission checked by my mechanic he said he thought the syilnoyd might be out but he couldnt diagonis it with the computer because he didnt have the connections for the car. is there any way to check the m or look to see if they are bad, now that the pan is off???

memario213 · #2 01-03-2006, 09:37 PM

i did the filter and oil change on the transmission and i figured out to get the car started and now another problem.

(i was trying to get the door issue fixed while the warmed up)the car is on at idle and im standing in the back of the car and the exhaust sounds weird (at this point the car has been on for almost 10 minutes). i thought maybe because it hasnt been on in about a month or more. the engine then sounds like it wants to shut off so i give a little rev and it stays on, i disconected the negative post from the battery to see if the car would turn off and the rear lights start dimming a bit so i connected back, a few seconds after the car starts to sound as if it wants to shut off then exhaust starts sounding weird again and then the car turns off with a popping noise after from the exhaust (i dont know if this is called backfiring).

i tried restarting the car but it sounds like it doesn't crank over??? sounds like it wants to turn on but doesnt crank???

any suggestions on what to start checking???

thanks in advance

bwheitman · #3 01-03-2006, 09:50 PM

First of all don't ever disconnect the battery while the car is running, that really freaks out a benz! I used to do that on my old cars to determine if the alternator was working, but on a benz if you do it you can really mess something up. If you had it at idle, then after it warmed up and started missing, that sounds to me like a vac leak. The computer will try to compensate by adjusting in and out the TBA and if it can not the engine will die. It will also go into limp mode. Check your vac lines, especially the one that goes right into the firewall from the engine's intake manifold. After you determine if there are no vac leaks go to the basics, fuel and ignition. Is the engine cranking now? Did you just buy this car or something? Seems like you are having a lot of trouble. Be patient, after you get the bugs worked out you will love the car, take your time and don't get in a hurry, they are easy to work on and usually nothing major goes wrong unless they are neglected or someone repairs them incorrectly. Good luck.
Brian

memario213 · #4 01-03-2006, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwheitman

First of all don't ever disconnect the battery while the car is running, that really freaks out a benz! I used to do that on my old cars to determine if the alternator was working, but on a benz if you do it you can really mess something up. If you had it at idle, then after it warmed up and started missing, that sounds to me like a vac leak. The computer will try to compensate by adjusting in and out the TBA and if it can not the engine will die. It will also go into limp mode. Check your vac lines, especially the one that goes right into the firewall from the engine's intake manifold. After you determine if there are no vac leaks go to the basics, fuel and ignition. Is the engine cranking now? Did you just buy this car or something? Seems like you are having a lot of trouble. Be patient, after you get the bugs worked out you will love the car, take your time and don't get in a hurry, they are easy to work on and usually nothing major goes wrong unless they are neglected or someone repairs them incorrectly. Good luck.
Brian

im going outside to check it out??

memario213 · #5 01-03-2006, 11:26 PM

i didnt find any leaking vac lines. so i just tried starting again not expecting for it to start and it did.
the first try it started so i took off the the intake part and looked for vac leaks and after the car turned off about a minute later i hear a clicking noise coming from the upper right side of the car to the lower right of the master cylider and brake booster, there was a cover with a screw in the center i took it off under it there is a switch that can be moved up and down and there are some relays next to it i dont know what this is but the clicking noise was coming from here (its were i could feel it).
another try and it still feels like it wants to turn off so i rev the gas to 1500 rpm steady and if i let go it would shut off with a popping noise.
i started it again and looking at my gauges my ASR and ABS lights are on.

i dont know if this means my ASR isnt working or what? or if this even has anything to do with the car be this way?? but when i bought the car the man told me that he had replaced ASR module because it wasnt working. i put it in drive and the car vibrates like crazy wanting to shut off, so i with the brakes down i rev the car a bit then after put it in park without reving it and the car shuts off with a popping noise from the exhaust.

i dont know what to do with this car anymore i tried to be patinet with it and take my time but it just keeps hitting me in the back of my head with a bat.

please i would appercaite any suggestions.

thanks

bwheitman · #6 01-04-2006, 08:13 AM

From what it sounds like it is your Throttle Body Actuator. This causes the ASR and ABS light to come on. Have you replaced the harness in that car yet? It is a 93 so it will need one. Check the wires, especially the ones that go to the TBA. Do a search on TBA and you will find links on how to test and send them in for rebuild. It could be your Harness causing the TBA to fail, but a failing harness can damage the TBA too.
One thing that is of concern is the it sounds like you have some clicking relays too, the 93 has those goofy fuses, take each one out, inspect it, clean the ends, make sure you have no bad fuses as this will cause relay malfunction and can effect your engine controls as well.
Was the car running when you brought it home? You said you just let it sit and now this? You may have to spend some time on it, can you reach the prior owner to find out if the harness has been replaced? just curious, good luck!
Brian

memario213 · #7 01-06-2006, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwheitman

From what it sounds like it is your Throttle Body Actuator. This causes the ASR and ABS light to come on. Have you replaced the harness in that car yet? It is a 93 so it will need one. Check the wires, especially the ones that go to the TBA. Do a search on TBA and you will find links on how to test and send them in for rebuild. It could be your Harness causing the TBA to fail, but a failing harness can damage the TBA too.
One thing that is of concern is the it sounds like you have some clicking relays too, the 93 has those goofy fuses, take each one out, inspect it, clean the ends, make sure you have no bad fuses as this will cause relay malfunction and can effect your engine controls as well.
Was the car running when you brought it home? You said you just let it sit and now this? You may have to spend some time on it, can you reach the prior owner to find out if the harness has been replaced? just curious, good luck!
Brian

no contact with the previous owner.
the car was running when i bought it but need minor work like shocks and a wax. but for some reason i suspected i was going to be in for a long ride.

today i started it up and it turned on fine (my ASR and ABS lights didn't stay on), so i drove it around the block and it seems to be running fine then i come to a stop and then hit the gas and the car doesnt respond poorly. the rpm went up to 2000 and its feels like the car is not getting any power, so i let go of the gas and quicky put my foot on the gas again and then it responds correctly, this thing went on and off with the response. i pull up to my house to check the oil level but i couldnt really read it, i walk around the car and it starts sounding a little shakey from underneath, when istand in the back of the car next to the exhaust tips it sounds weird kind of like a THSSS THSSS THSSS (like it wants to die out) and then the exhaust makes a lound popping noise, i then get in the car to put it away before it die's on me and when i put it in drive it shuts off.

do you know what this might be.
my mechanic (or anyone else in town) doesn't have the plug-ins to diaginose the car, and the mercedes dealer is 35 miles away.

with my options what do you suggest i do???

i appreciate all the help you and everyone else have given me so far.

thanks

memario213 · #8 02-05-2006, 04:26 AM

bwheitman · #9 02-05-2006, 09:12 AM

Hello,
There is nothing called a Distributor sensor, there is a Cam position sensor and the Cam adjuster. The Cam adjuster sits in front of the intake cam and is round, that is right next to the distributor because the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam. There is also a Cam position sensor, that is located on the side of the head next to the intake cam. (just to the right of the Cam adjuster) There is the Crank shaft position sensor as well, that is located on the engine block in the rear, usually around the starter. Your mechanic stating it has to do with Fire is correct, he actually means spark or timing, the firing of the engine. The Cam sensor and Crank sensor notify the computer of the position and adjust the timing according to the information recieved. Replacing these is likely a good place to start. Have you checked your plug wires, plugs, and coils? Check out our website at www.mbca.org/northtexas click on technical and then engine technical. Review the engine controls, there you will see on the 119 engine where all the sensors are located.

memario213 · #10 02-06-2006, 05:32 AM

yeah he meant cam sensor... sorry
i took the print outs from the delaer to my mechanica and he pointd out the crank postion sensor which he would recommend changing out, so i did a little bit of reserch and it sounds some what similar but the difference is that most people that need this changed out have problems with there cars turning off when there hot (after driving for a while), where to compared to me where mine turns off after the car is only on (in park or driving) for 10-15 minutes. the previous owner had the problem of it turning off after drivng a long while then he would have to wait half an hour and then it would start, he sadi he fixed the by changing the distribuator???

i got a price from the delaer they said $202 for the crank postion sensor 93 500sel. i tried checking online and the i only found cam sensor for $140, but not any crank sensor. do youn know of any place that i can find a better price than the delaer $200--???

thanks in advance