Tech questions on Trany oil change
 

I did a search and did not find what I needed, I also checked my shop manual and it does not have a transmission section.

I am going to a MB tech session to change my trany oil. I have a 1987 16v with a 4 speed auto.

1. I need to know what size socket/allen I need for the torque converter.
2. How do you turn the torque converter to get the plug lined up with the hole in the bell housing?
3. What holds the filter to te trany (screwes, bolts, nuts) and doI need something special to remove them?
4. Any thing else I need to know?

Thanks

I had to do some of this today. I am enjoying the pleasure of dropping my trans out, so first one drains it.

1. Mine uses a 5mm allen. I suspect yours will too.
2. Turn the motor at the crank pulley clockwise only (to be safe) with a socket that fits the pulley bolt. I say clockwise only as it is verboten to turn a Benz V8 (probably applies to sixes and fours too) counterclockwise.
It helps to have someone watching the converter for the drain to come around while you do this although I managed without.
3. Haven't gotten that far yet.

Will I need to pul the spark plugs to get it to turn?

No

When do mine, 300E's but probably similar, I simply crawl under there with the following items : the allen wrenches (I can never remember the size), a really large, screw driver, a light source and of course a pan to catch the fluid.

Taking care to rotate the engine in the proper direction, I simply use the screwdriver to lever against the cast housing that surrounds the torque converter and move the drain plug into view. Simple. Have done it that way for years. A 4 cylinder should be easier than a 6 .

Here is a more important tip, assuming you are doing this from jack stands.
Get some 4 x 4's or something to get the drip pan closer to tranny pan and torque converter drain. It will eliminate a whole lot of splashing.

The transmission filter on the 300E's is simply 3 or 4 phillips head screws.

Hope it helps,

Steve

I do mine the same exact way as Steve, the previous poster....

Make sure you get a pan that is about 50% larger than the tranny pan... don't ask me how I know this.

On a side note, why must the engine be turned only in the clockwise direction? I know it's good form to do it, but specifically what terrible action will occur in the engine if it is turned the other way? Is this specifically addressed in the shop manual?

It has to do with the timing chain tensioning mechanism. BTW, from underneath the vehicle, it's pretty easy to move the engine with a ratchet while the other hand brushes up against the outside surface of the torque converter, easily locating the drain plug.

For me and anyone else who might be unsure which is the crank pulley that needs to be turned, would someone please post a diagram or picture. Thanks.

When you are standing in front of the car facing the engine, imagine the crank pulley has clock hands on it and turn it accordingly. Or pretend you are trying to "tighten" the crank bolt.

I went to a MB tech session here in Dallas today and changed the Trany oil. Even had time to change the oil in thr Diff.

Amazing how easy it is to workon a car when you have it ona lift 6 ft aboue your head. Love it. Need one inmy garage:D

I do have a follow up question though. I drained both the converter and the pan, changed out the filter. I put about 6 1/2 quarts in the engine. I first put in about 4 quarts, started it up and put another 2 in. Got in the car, ran it through the grears up and down including reverse. The engine got to opperating temp when I checked the level. It was right between the hash marks. When I drove it home I checked my work and noticed that the trany oil level increased. It is about 1/2 inch above the top hash mark.

Do I need to be worried or is that OK?

Thanks for everyones help.

Transmission fluid takes a lot longer to warm up than the engine temp gauge will lead you to believe. It takes some miles before the transmission fluid is warmed up.

Transmission fluid expands when it warms up. That's why I suggest refilling the charge with about 1/2 to 1 quart short, then checking the level after a long drive.

When a transmission is overfilled, there is a possibility of whipping bubbles into the oil, rendering it useless, and it can possibly damage the transmission. I don't know how tolerant your transmission is to overfilling, nor how much is too much. It's best to err on the safe side and drain out (siphon) a quart or so, then check the fluid next time it's warm.

Not the answer I wanted but it was the answer I expected. Guess I'll drain a bit tomorrow morrning. The pan plug is easy to get to so it should not be too bad a job.


Thanks

Or just use topsider suction a bit out also will do.

No top sider. Need to get down and dirty. C'est la vie