Or all three? I'm interested in your opinion. Should I just replace the switch which I suspect, as have others here, to be the next probable cause of my occassional stumble/stall issue? Or since I'm "in there", replace the housing and cylinder as well? My vehicle is an 88' 560 SEL. Aside from the stumble/stall issue (two years now!), I noticed twice over the last two months that I had to manually turn the key left due to the starter staying engaged after release of the key. Additionally, the radio stayed on yesterday after the ignition was turned off and the key removed.

Thanks ahead of time for your opinions. I bought the 88 560SEL because of Mercedes' engineering but I keep the car because of the incredible expertise of the members of MercedesShop! Thank You!

__________________
Woody

The electrical portion of the ignition switch is the only part that can cause stalling.

IF you are having problems TURNING the key then replace ALL of the pieces.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks MB DOC -

Are you giving weight to my report that the ignition (key) had to be manually turned to the left to disengage the starter and/or that the radio stayed on after the ignition was turmed off and the key removed? If I am reading your reply correctly, you are suggesting replacing all three components - yes?

Thanks again for your insight.

__________________
Woody

What M.B. Doc says is correct. The electrical swithch is behind the lock itself. It is spring loaded to return to ON when the key is released after starting the vehicle. The radio staying on, after shutting off the ignition, tells you that there is a short in the switch. Replace the switch, behind the lock, and all will be well!

__________________
Roc

'74 350SLC (Euro) (For Sale)
'01 CLK55
'02 Jaguar XK8
'04 E320 Wagon
'89 Ferrari Mondial T Coupe
'57 Volvo PV-444 (Vintage Racer in build) (For Sale)
'80 Mazda RX7 Enduro Race Car (For Sale)

Thanks SatRoc and MBDOC. I'll order the switch today. Crossing fingers that this cures my intermittant stall issue.

__________________
Woody

You can replace that portion w/out total removal of the ignition switch.

__________________
82 300D....went to MB heaven
90 350 SDL....excercising con rods

Andmoon, still awaiting parts but it would seem all I need do is pull instrument cluster, steering wheel (air bag) and the ignition switch should reveal itself quite nicely - yes? The MB service manual seems to describe process fairly well. Have you a trick or two I'm all ears! Thanks.

__________________
Woody

Just completed the installation of a new ignition switch for my 88 560SEL. I followed the advise of andmoon but thought I'd add a couple of helpful hints:

1) Extend telescoping steeing to max out.
2) Place front seat in most rearward position.
3) Disconnect battery negative cable.
4) remove instrument cluster
5) turn key to #1 postion and remove plug in back of switch (turning key is required to "unlock" plug from switch).
6) Feel around (can't see due to angle) for allen bolt on top of ignition cylinder that mates with steering column and loosen (no need to remove)
7) remove two bolts (13mm) on top of steering column allowing column to drop about 3".
8) look for "release button" that resides on the steering column where ignition cylinder enters column. You'll see (need strong light) this release button as you look in-between the column and the 180 degree plastic trim piece that is attached to dash.
9) turn key to position #1 and push release button with a heavy wire while pulling ignition cylinder to right.
10) remove key to allow ignition cylinder to continue to the right.
11) orchestrate the complete assemply out through the instrument cluster opening.
12) you can proceed to remove old switch from ignition assembly with all accessory wiring to ignition cylinder remaining in place.

The new ignition switch does not have an enlarged white plastic "wing" that is in the original which required the key to be in position #1 for the plug to be removed.

Others are correct that in using this procedure, one does not need to remove the steering wheel nor the lower kick panel.

No I'll wait and see if this was the cause of my occassional stall/stumble. Fingers crossed!

__________________
Woody

It's now 11th May and having read the thread.........where's the ending? Like a 'who-dun-it' ; nicely built to a climax but.......????

__________________
1983 280SE W126 . M110 engine 150k miles

But I've been busy enjoying my 560SEL! Finally I can report with a high degree of confidence that I have remedied the occassional stall/stumble issue with my 88 560SEL. The ignition switch did not cure it. I finally searched for a used EZL (ignition control unit). I found one on Ebay. It was a SIEMANS unit. The seller offered a 30-day warranty, which is most generous. I paid $175.00.

I installed it 3 months ago. The car has been flawless ever since. I have carefully evaluated the performance while experiencing all types of conditions - especially cold/wet weather - where my stumble stall would be most prevalent.

After two years - nirvana! Thanks to the many who offerred assistance.

__________________
Woody

Hey Guys, I've Asked Elsewhere Here, But Told Take To Mb Shop. Can You Tell Me (diagrams Helpful) How To Remove The Ignition Cylinder For Replacement? Want To Give Replacing It Ourselves A Shot Before Towing It. Any Help Is Appreciated, Thanks!