It's for a non mercedes, mitsubishi montero.
after 3 new master cylinders the pedal still is spongy, pedal engages half way through and the stopping power is 35% of what it used to be before this problem occured. However, if i pump slightly and then press the brake pedal again it always is firm. Though the braking poewr still comes and goes even with this double pumping action. at times the brakes engage perfectly but subsequent brakings are back to less power.
the dealer service center and also the private shops i went to, bleed the system with the two person method. they donnt even use a bottle and pipe at the bleeding screws. they just squirt the fluid out.
with zillions of posts on shops having actual gadgets to bleed the m/c and the brake lines properly , I wanted to know if anyone knows of such specialty brake shops in central NJ area.
really would appreciate any input on the problem and also a recommendation for the shop.
thnx.

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like air in the system. no way to know if they are bleeding correctly. did you watch them?

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

yea i watched them. at two private shops i actually was sitting inside while thhe mech. opened annd closed the valves. the pedal feels firm once you push on it twice with engine off. however, the moment the engine is turned on, the pedal drops about 6 inches towards the firewall.
that is with constant pressure. The drop was never more than 2 or so inches when the system was performing well.
all the process in this article has been followed.
http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeBleed.htm

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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford.

allright, bled the brakes thoroughly over the weekend.
no change whatsoever,
once the brake is pumped, the pedal is high and stays high.
with the engine off, the pedal firms up and doesnt drop at all.
so the m/c is not the problem here.
that leaves the brake lines or the callipers.
without air in the system, what else could be causing this ? any ideas ?

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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford.

Bad brake booster?

the second application of the pedal always gives perfect pedal and brake power.
had the booster been bad wouldnt the pedal be rock hard and difficult to press rather than being so soft on first application and then OK on every subsequent applications ?

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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford.