Thinking of letting an good local indy replace my AC evaporator (94 E30, 122,000 miles) this month before the hot Metro DC weather arrives. Can anyone give a rough estimate what the cost might be?

regards,
Mark

Then you might get by for $3000 or so. You'll need a new dryer as well.

Perhaps you already know this - while it is apart, replace all the vacuum actuators for the HVAC system. Mine was done by an "Indy" about 5 years ago for $2,100 - $2,200. His labor was only about $10/Hr. below the local dealer but he had about 25 years experience working exclusively on Mercedes products and had actually done more of these jobs than the dealer. The failure was indicated by the telltale oil leaking from the AC drain hoses. Placed a dye in the system just to double-check. While at it, replaced the heater core and expansion valve. Neither had signs of failure but didn't want to open the dash again for a future heater core problem, even if the failure rate is not very high. Additional cost was a little over $100 for the core. Still has the original compressor and has held full charge since the job. Cools real good! Don't convert, keep R12!
OliverB

On some MB cars, the book rate was 21 hours. Not sure about your model.

It's going to cost serious $$$, but whatever you do, only allow a REAL MB tech who has done several to work on your car.

__________________
Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

I agree,,, I wouldn't want to have a heart bypass done by a first timer. BTW,,,, how in the heck do those guys get their experience anyhow ?

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Peter does bring up an interesting point.

No one wants a "first timer" doing crucial surgery, but if there's no "first time", no experience is developed.

Catch-22.

__________________
Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

My first evap job was on my buddies car. I did it for free since he knew I'd not done one before. I didn't break anything while disassembling or reassembling. For me the job was really not technically difficult. There's just a lot of parts to deal with.

Have heard to get an all copper evporator to prevent corrosion.

I would investigate this as doing this job twice would make people sad.

The ACM evap that I use was all aluminum and the OEM one I removed was aluminum and cooper.

$3000 on my E420 about 2 years ago. Included new vacuum pods whule dash was out

__________________
95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD
85 380SE(125k)
95 SL500(72k)

I've done the evap swap once, on my own car. I concur with Ron's assessment. It is not actually a difficult job. Just a large number of parts to disassemble and reassemble. There are no impossible to access fasteners, nothing requires 300ft-lbs of torque to break loose, and you don't have to stand on your head while working on a component you cannot feel but not see. Shoot, you barely even get your fingers dirty.

I broke one $3 piece of trim when doing this job on my then 16 year old car. I'd rate it as low risk of damage.

Something in the range of $2000-$2500 seems to be the median cost. Below that I'd be worried about the job being done correctly, above that I'd get another quote.

- JimY

On the 140 the job is a "dash out", not partially but totally. I would not let anyone who has not done the job at least once at it. The newer "evap" is smaller and needs a filler panel. My local MB dealer does not let anyone do it, 3/4K is a pretty good price mine was 2k and they split the cost of the parts and labor. they also replaced the dryer, some questinable hoses some sensors and other items.
Just remember when they are in there it is easy for the mechanic to go to the parts counter, and ask his buddies for advice and help.
Can it be done yes, labels, pictures, and a lot of time. The carbon filter is under the windshield wiper mechanism.

I just purchased a 1995 Mercedes E320 Wagon with 138,000. The owner disclosed that the AC was not working. I wrongly assumed the compressor but that was my fault for not being more specific in my Q&A at the time of purchase. I determined after a charge of the AC it was in fact the evaporator. After reading many threads on this topic I concluded that while DIY may be a daunting task, it can be done if you are patient and watch what you do. Therefore I took on the task and here are the results.

Monday April 24th, 2006 - 7-8pm. I spent 1 hour just doing the dirty work. Draining the coolant, detaching the expansion valve, detaching and removing the battery, then disconnecting all of the heat exchanger hoses leading through the firewall.

Tuesday April 25th-26, 2006 - 6:30pm - 12:30am - These 6 hours covered the disassembly phase. If you are using the CD manual, here is what I would change. Disassemble the blower housing from the engine side and remove the blower and wires prior to starting inside. You will save yourself a lot stress in getting the bulky airbox out without the additonal parts attached. Also I forced the driver side floor air duct leading under the seat a little too much and caused a small crack in the air box. Not a big deal, but noteworthy. I also started with the center console and then went to the main dash. The notes have you do that in reverse but I felt it was more efficient to do the center console first. Removing the vents required 2 picks and you work loose a side at a time until you are past the detent. Also be prepared for a little antifreeze on your front passenger floor as you twist the airbox out of it's space.

Wedenesday April 26th-27th, 2006 - 6:30pm - 4:00am - These 9.5 hours covered the evaporator replacement in the airbox plus the reinstallation of all interior and engine bay parts. I wanted to get this put back together while everything is fresh in my head.

Thursday April 27th, 2006 - 7:30am - 7:45am - hooked up evacutor and drew system down.

Thursday April 27th, 2006 - 5:15pm- 5:45pm - Evacuated once more and started charging first with 4oz oil then remaining charge of R134a synthetic. Charge held and pressures were good. I did add 2 oz of dye to have a jump on any future problems that might arise but so far no leaks.

The key to this whole project is focus and keep moving. There will be times you will feel like you are not making much progress, but just keep at it. This is a very rewarding DIY project that does NOT require any specialty tools and/or exceptional strength. I learned more about the car in those 16.5 hours and now feel very capable of tackling anything that shows up.

I had access to an evac unit from a local shop. Since this is the last phase of the project (as mine was leaking so badly it would bleed out any charge in a matter of hours) you could complete all assembly and take to a local shop for the final evac and recharge. I think you are wise to put a new expansion valve and drier, I did the same. Let me know if there are any questions you might have, I do not know how different the S500 is under the dash but do not be alarmed by the cobweb of wires you will see. It was obvious to me where all of the wires went except I labeled 2 wires that detach from the airbox because they were ambiguous in nature.

I have a vcr tape of the evporator removal in a W140, if anyone is interested PM me.