They are about 90$ each OEM. The biggest issue regarding the change is rusted nuts and hydraulic lines. I guess in Atlanta that's less of an issue than here in the heart of the rust belt. Still, access is a bit limited. The accumulator are removed from the trunk, all the hydraulic connections are under the car.
After a complete (and I replaced everything, except the rear coil springs) suspension overhaul I felt the rear was smoother than the front in my wagon so I would also assume shot accumulators in your car.
Bruno

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1992 300TE 160 kmiles

you even replaced the loadleveling shocks? wow, arent they like 500 a piece? good job! so the accumulators have hydraulic lines...can i just disconnect the old ones and pop in the new accumulators, or are there other factors like worrying about air in the lines?

Ok, touche;-) No, I did not do those, they do not wear (luckily given their price).
You have to release pressure from the system by opening the bleeding valve on the self-levelling valve prior to undoing the lines. It will still be a mit messy though. After putting everything back together you add some fluid to the reservoir, start the engine, put the lever on the valve down, wait a bit, turn it up to fill, again wait a bit, then attach the rod and check the level of the car. The system is self-bleeding. Also check the fluid level in the reservoir again. You may need to adjust the length of the rod.
But It may be a good idea to check a manual as I am citing from memory.
Good luck, Bruno

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1992 300TE 160 kmiles

cool! thanks for the info. I think i'm going to have to address this bouncy mess.