Hello Hello,

I have a 1995 E320 Wagon with 75k. Drive belt is squealing like a pig being butchered !

Dealer actually said..No harm, just annoying so replace when you want.

Is there anything I can do to get this belt back in shape with a lubricant or something instead of changing?

It's fine when it warms up but I wake the neighbors when starting the car..

I have used Belt Dressing and it works for one time....any ideas, cheats, whatever to save some money til the belt actually goes?

Thanks much

Greg M.
www.FCSLive.com

Considering Belts are $10-$15, and changing is pretty simple, try changing it. You might be stuck when it breaks, so changing it would be wise.

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1989 300E 144K

I've heard that dry lubricants are more effective than wet when it comes to lubricating the belt. From what I understand, wet lubricants can actually lead to slipping. Try holding a piece of chalk on the backside of the belt as it spins. I've heard this can be effective. If I have been misinformed, someone will certainly chime in.

Thanks for the replies....

1st...Belts are $10-$15, but I did not realize that it's that easy to change. Any special tools needed? How long would it take a novice?

2nd...Chalk against the underside of the bel as it spins? Sounds dangerous unless they sell long sticks of chalk....that sucker spins ya know

I will research the MB Cd for changing the drive belt,

Thanks again,

It very well could be the belt tensioner. They fail from heat over the years.
It's about a $150 dollar item. You would / should also replace the little belt shock absorber, and the adjuster rod. The serpentine belt is not $15. More like $40 to $50 dollars.

My experience is that when your tensioner is bad, it only reveals it's condition after you have replaced some rotating accessory on the front of the engine and are attempting to re-tension the belt. It won't tighten up and then you get to order the parts and wait. Happened to me 3 times now.

You know it also could a failing air pump. That also happened to me. The screech was really loud.
It went away after the pump shut off. Then I unplugged it. You need to have someone start the car while you stand in front with the hood open. You should be able to be an idea of where the noise is coming from. Air pump is on top left as you are looking at the engine from the front.

Steve

Try rubbing it - both sides - with a bar of soap. No special soap, just what you'd use in the shower. If you don't want to ruin an entire bar, cut a piece off of one and use that. Dont do this on the underside while it's running, and be careful while it is doung the top side.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
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1972 280SE 4.5
2018 Durango R/T, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

plain old jhonsons baby power or talcum poweder. sprinkle it all over the belt while the car is off, start it and listen..

Seriously, no joke, do the above, or if you want to see the instant results, start the car, and then sprinkle the powder while the car is at idle.

Sounds funny, but it works. But I agree with MattBelliveau, just change the belt..

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www.theworkshopmercedesbenz.com
Nahum:1.7

Does the noise quit when the air pump clutch disengages?

The noise stops as you depress the gas peddle and only lasts for about 30 seconds, BUT that 30 seconds wakes the neighbors

Noise stops immediately when sprayed with Belt Dressing....

Going to try the wax / soap idea

Yikes! Obviously something is not right. Your belt is slipping. Putting various treatments on the belt is a bandaid approach.

You really need to determine the problem and find out why it is slipping.

Steve

What is the belt tension? It should be quite tight across from one pulley to the next.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

What is the belt tension? It should be quite tight across from one pulley to the next.

There is some flexing...belt is not totally tight, but I am nervous of tightening before ordering a new tensioner.....

Why not buy a new belt ,you are going to buy one anyway ,and compare the length with the old one ,it is probably stretched past the point that the tensioner can accomodate and if so will save you buying a tensioner. When you have the belt off you can spin the tensioner to see if it there is play in the bearing or any roughness.
Geo.

This would be a good time to stop at your local MB mechanic, and pay them to try tightening the belt. The hassel factor in changing out a belt tensioner is fairly high. You also need to know how to set the pointer. There are a lot of mechanicals packed in a small space. An experienced mechanic can do the job fairly quickly because he knows the exact sequence of events and knows the shortcuts. This is a critical component.

If you do try to tighten it, remember that there is a large, 17mm I think, bolt that runs front to back down in front of the tensioner. This must be loosened prior to attempting to adjust the tension. If you fail to loosen it, you will bend the adjuster rod.

I would recommend paying someone to tackle this project. In addition, once you buy the part and discover that installation is beyond either your ability or toolset, you may discover that your mechanic refuses to install a customer provided part. A good chunk of their margin is based on marking up parts.

Steve

Tackle it myself.....Yeah, probably not. My expertese is selling franchises around the US, not changing drive belts on a Mercedes.

I have the CD's for the W124 and looking at what needs to be done...PASS!

I could just tell my neighbors to shut up and quit complaining...it only last a few seconds and then goes away.

In regards to TOOLS, have everything you will ever imagine and more. I represent MATCO TOOLS franchise whic mfg's their own tools and then visit dealerships and such to sell them. TOOLS...OK, skill, time, patience, not so much..

Thanks for the info