Found the link to more than you ever want to know about MB Coolant.

https://mbwholesaleparts.com/StarTun...iFreeDec04.pdf

Steve

I'm a first time MB owner as of two weeks ago....1992 300ce (m104) 83K mi

Thought i'd investigate a little....TOO bad that Link to Mercedes Website doesn't work on my PC....Anti Freeze infomation shouldn't be a mystery. I'm waiting for my Shop manual from MB. Maybe the mystery will continue? I topped off my Engine coolant with the green stuff. It didn't explode so I guess I'm lucky so far!!!

ron 5:01pmPDT

If I were looking to buy your MB and saw ''green stuff'' I would have to think twice. If someone got cheap on the coolant who knows where else you went cheap? I just flushed out green stuff on my 190. I want my cooling system to last. The heater core in the 190 is a big job the replace.

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2009 CLS550 55,000
2004 ML350 144,000
2004 X5 95,000
2002 X5 165,000
1996 320S 155,000 (sold)
1991 190E 192,000 (sold)
1989 300SE 160,00 (sold)
1984 300D 210,000 owned since 85, (sold)
1984 300SD 160,000 (sold)

Generally. most older MB's can very successfully use the QUALITY green stuff with no problems: you just have to remember to drain, flush and change out every 2-3 years, depending upon how many miles you actually drive, whether the fluid stays clean, no leaks or usage, etc.

New MB's typically REQUIRE the MB coolant/G-05. Using it in older MB's is no problem if the cooling system doesn't have any problems to begin with & you remember to drain, flush, refill with plain water, drain & flush again, etc. BEFORE changing over to the new stuff.

I use it in my '91 420SEL, both my motorcycles, the SVX. Everything stays clean, no sediment, no leaks, no problems. When the green stuff in the 1973 450SE is two years old, when the green stuff in the '87 F250 has 10K or so miles on it I'll change them over to G-05, too.

I'm not going to drain off and throw away (WHOOPS! I MEANT "re-cycle") 2 gallons of coolant (each) with less than a year's use.

I should also mention that I have NEVER had a cooling system repair associated with coolant failure. I don't have overheating problems: I replace my hoses before they are worn out or fail. I fix/replace a water pump, thermostat, temp sensor, before they fail. I look for any evidence of corrosion or leaks.

I have replaced a cracked radiator (plastic upper hose outlet on the SVX) at 122K miles.

Cheers!

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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435

You have to love these ambiguous pronouncements. Generally, older can use the Green Stuff. Really? What is older? Where is the dividing line? What is Newer? Why is this so? Finally, exactly on what, other your limited number of sample cars, do you base these conclusions?

Each year has a list of factory approved fluids. Why not go with what the factory dicates?

Steve

I don't know about plastic components in the SVX radiator but cracked plastic header tanks are the exact failure mode when MB radiators use the "green stuff" for extended periods. If you were using the "green stuff" in the SVX cooling system you may have experienced a cooling failure due to incorrect coolant.

I agree with Softconsult, as far as maintenance schedules and procedures I'm going with factory recommendations over internet advice.

Actually, whether you use the green stuff or the factory coolant, the required factory replacement interval for coolant is every 3 years anyway.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

It was not my intention to "talk down to you". There's lots of information on the web about Mercedes coolant if you want to take a moment to google it for your own personal research. While there might be "some guy" that claims to have knowledge about a subject before I start experimenting with my car I prefer to have more "real" information. Mercedes Benz Engineers specify Mercedes coolant in the cars that they designed. Until I see some lab tests done by real engineers (not just "some guy" on his personal vehicle) that support some other products I will only put the Mercedes products in my car. There is not that big of a price difference and the risk is not worth a few bucks of savings.

I as well used to drive Honda's before I knew better and before they became fashionable with the NOPI crowd. I just got tired of having to "toss them in the trash" when they reached 275K. Now I just find them to be a buzzy annoyance on the interstate going under 55mph and causing traffic problems to try and eeek out an additional .0005mpg because the owners are concerned abouy fuel costs.

There are a lot of people out there that are what I call "stupid cheap". A perfect example of stupid cheap is putting the green stuff in your radiator because you want to save a couple of bucks on a bottle of coolant. When your radiator neck breaks off in your hand and you have to replace it you spend a lot more money than that couple of bucks that you saved buying the green stuff.

Don't get me wrong I'm not the person who rolls up into the Mercedes service department to pay inflated prices for inferior work. I do however value my dollar and my vehicle. Balance is the key to many things in the world including keeping one of the best engineered cars in the world on the road in an economical manner.

... & before. "Newer" w/b 140 Series & on...

You know: back in the OLD days when anti-freeze was just that: anti-freeze.

The cracked plastic radiator at the upper tube is, has, and will remain a manufacturing/design weakness (note: I didn't say "defect") on the SVX. Actually, there were other issues re: the radiator that were much more serious that had to do with the tranny cooler section, especially on the initial (1992) models. The cracking had more to do with vibration vs. corrosion. A radiator replacement at 12 years & 125K is not going to send me into paroxysmal depression.

I also seriously doubt the Subaru suppliers used the same plastic as MB. Maybe, but unlikely.

That Mercedes once used oil that was not SG or SM (or 502.11(3)a(2)iii) rated, or even SYNTHETIC, and transmission fluid that was not equal to Dexron III/Mercon, etc. does not mean that using BETTER more sophisticated fluid products in "older" (there's that word, again!) MB's is not a good idea.

Cheers!

p.s. My 450SE has a METAL expansion tank and the original radiator.

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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435

The full link that softconsult posted is below:

https://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/StarTuned/pdfs/AntiFreeDec04.pdf

Whoa!!

Did I read that right??

Does page 13 of that article state that MB says 15 years is a safe interval for those late models listed in the article?

Show of hands. Who would NEVER change their AF/coolant (assuming you owned one of them for less than 15 years)?

It's that time again...different vehicle (now a 1991 300ce) lost the prior car in a accident. So time to refresh the coolant!

A link which appears to complement the above reference may be found here: http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/39651/correcting_coolant_confusion.aspx
A partial cut and paste is below...
Extended Life Hybrid Coolants
Silicated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) antifreezes, which are sometimes referred to as “G-05” formula coolants, contain organic acids in combination with one or more inorganic inhibitors. The most common inhibitor is silicate. The addition of silicates increases corrosion protection for aluminum engines, radiators and heater cores, and helps protect the water pump against erosion wear. Silicated hybrid OAT coolants are specified for 2001 and up DaimlerChrysler vehicles, 2002 and up Ford trucks and SUVs, 2003 and up Ford passenger cars, and 1985 and up Mercedes, BMWs, Volvos and Mini Coopers. “Phosphated HOAT” coolants are used in Asian vehicles (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Kia and Hyundai) because Asian vehicle manufacturers prefer phosphated organic acid coolants and do not like silicated organic acid coolants. European vehicle manufacturers, on the other hand, generally specify silicated HOAT coolants and do not like phosphated organic acid coolants. That’s why some antifreeze suppliers offer different HOAT formulas for these applications.

My thoughts: Distilled water and a G05 mixture appears to be an acceptable anti-freeze for those folks who live in a "hard water" region.

ron_of_orange
7/28/2009

The glycol part of the antifreeze is the same, the addivies vary depending on what manufactureres think is important for corrosion protection and tracking element to see if there is a leak into the lubricating oil from a blown head gasket and such. Here is a small comparison of different coolants and their additive elements.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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2010 ML350 Bluetec
2012 Mustang Convertible

I had the same questions about coolant for MBZ and several dealer and independent mechanics all had the same recommendations - use either the factory stuff or Zerex to avoid any problems. Factory stuff can be pricey but Zerex isn't bad and both are worth the money to avoid coolant related problems.

Most 2004 and newer MBs have a silicate bag in the expansion tank that releases replenishing silicates over time...hence the long change intervals. Quite nifty really and other manufacturers could take a page from this. Mark