Just use what the manual tells you to use. Just because something is more advanced does not necessarily mean that it's safe to use in your vehicle, because the more advanced item was engineered to be used in a more advanced vehicle, which are constructed using a far wider selection of materials now; if something was re-engineered, it's likely it was done to address issues that didn't exist previously.

Also, cracked/seperated plastic radiator heads are a common thing in just about every vehicle that uses them these days; granted, that's more an inferior parts issue than anything else.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

My MB has the green stuff in it and I am going to change it here at home. I am going to get the Zerex coolant.

Do I just need to simply drain the radiator, then refill with the Zerex? Not sure how to flush it myself, unless I just leave the drain out and pour some water through it to get out as much as I can?

Also, I live in an area where it dont get below 5°, even in the harshest cold weather outbreaks... would one gallon be enough, then then refill the rest of the way with distilled water? (BTW, its a W126 with the M103 engine).

Thanks.

I have the flu and you guys are making my head hurt.

Group 1: Please compose sentences carefully and unambiguously.

Group 2: Please read posts carefully and avoid accusations in favor of clarifications.

If I have to write another post like this, you all will have to change your antifreeze, or else!

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

You'll have a drain plug on the block, If I remember correctly, under the exhaust header. Another drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, on the right side underneath.

I'm not sure on the capacity of the cooling system on the M103, but asuming the total capacity is around 9-10 litres, a gallon should be fine.

1. MB coolant was tested in the MB engines, the others were not.
2. Yes, there are different alloys used in MB engines than used in those of other cars.
3. Increased corrosion will lead to earlier leaks, like at the water pump shaft. MB water pumps cost several hundred dollars. I would rather leave the old stuff in there than try to save $4.95 with a bottle of Pep Boys' finest.

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Prost!

What are these different alloys, and how does the coolant affect them?

I don't work in the Daimler test lab so I won't venture a guess. I can look up the mailing address from the engine plant for you if you'd really like ot know.

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Prost!

So how do you know the alloys are different? I happen to be quite familiar with all the materials used in the automotive industry. I also keep up with emerging technologies used in automotive materials. Pretty much all manufacturers use similar alloys in the cooling systems. There are few surprises when it comes to alloys that contact the cooling system. Coolant technology is not that exact a science.

is it OK to use Dexron III in my 722.329?

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1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

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1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE

Obviously I don't know their trade secrets. I can say, however, that for the M-Class there were dozens of engineers like you who thought that any US company could provide a Mercedes part as well as their German counterparts. The reality, however, was that the specified alloys (for aluminum parts) were not common in the US, and indeed the parts needed to be sourced overseas.
Why is that important, though? What would be convincing is if you could show an endurance test of different coolants in a running MB engine. I have a sample size of two where the water pumps started leaking after using "insert name here" coolant. Was it the ultimate cause - no idea, but I do believe in science and chemistry and corrosion, so I'm convinced (given the cost/benefit).

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Prost!

Iron motor block; aluminum heads, aluminum cooling (heater core and radiator) system.

I love the fact that there's some pushback to using MB or Zerex G-05 (both made by Dow Chem in the US and packaged in the same jug) given that fact that 1) it's a Mercedes spec; 2) the coolant has a 2YR life; 3) It isn't that costly.

I know this is an old-lost thread... but I wanted to add something.


First, I do not think the majority will be able to get 20-30 years to a plastic radiator regardless of the coolant used. But, within this thread there was always the question on what makes G05 coolant different?

It's quite simple, the buffering ability. It's not the ethylene glycol content. Get some ph papers and check to make sure the coolant is neither acid or basic. As it ages and reacts with electoylsis byproducts- it becomes more basic. You'll find the MB coolant does buffer better for 2-3 years.

That's the short of the "Stu Ritter" explaination I got- he was a chemist in college and actually checked PH of the coolants.

M

I am a believer in following factory recommendations and the proof for me is that the aluminum radiator in my 26+ year old Porsche 944 is the original due to the use of the required Phosphate Free antifreeze. Considering the cost of a gallon jug and a three year change interval, any additional cost over the cheap stuff is irrelevant.

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Roger E.

There are many cars that use plastic rad tanks/necks, alum heads/blocks. My Lexus (owned 1) recommended Toy (pink) antifreeze, my Land Rover (1) recommends Land Rover antifreeze, my jeeps (owned 4) recommended Chry antifreeze, my BMW's (8) recommend BWW, and my Volvos (5) recommend Volvo antifreeze. All the Porsches (8) have been/are air cooled!!! I'm sure most manufact's recommend their own brand. Do all of these cars need/require their own antifreeze? Do each of them use a significant diff mixture of alloys in their heads/blocks, and are the antifreeze mixtures that different?????

Now, having said the above, if I purchased a new "whatever" car, I'd let the dealer do it's maint "thing" for the first several years of ownership, then I'd take over.

Not disagreeing/agreeing at all, just can't believe they are all different!

I've always just gone to autozone, and grabbed Zerex/Prestone for the last 25yrs, and never had a coolant related failure in the past 25yrs of messing with these cars.

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Tim

05 E320
86 930
05 Range Rover HSE
95 Range Rover SWB
63 Series IIa
Several boring BMW's for this kids....

i don't buy that there's a difference between mb coolant and g05--it's the same coolant repackaged into an mb bottle. no buffering difference, whatever that means

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