I've done a search but dont' get it - how do you measure the compressor clutch gap? Can it be done on the car or does the compressor have to come off? Or does the serp belt have to come off? I just don't see a place to measure. Car is a 400E, MB compressor part # 000 230 06 11 80, which I believe is a factory rebuilt Nippondenso. I'm getting a compressor clutch blocked fault code and this seems to be a good suspect. Any help appreciated.

it can be measured on the car you use a feeler gauge between the idle pulley and the front clutch housing, i am not sure what the value is, but before i would measure gap i would check the wiring harness plug on the compressor, i have seen this same code caused by the wires at the plug coming loose, open the plastic housing and see if this is the case, it seems to happen sometimes when the motor mount on the drivers side breaks, and when you accelerate the engine raises up on that side and over time damages the wire.

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Thanks, the pictures helps a lot - I'll take another look at it later this week. I did have a wiring problem which I believe I fixed last week. The speed sensor wire was broken so I spliced it up and got the compressor to come on a few times, but then it started to cut out again. But I'll go back and look at the wiring too.

It's easy to measure on the car using plain old feeler guages. I'm not familiar with the underhood layout of the 124.034, you may have to go in from the bottom of access from up top is too tight. Attached thumbnail has it correct, you measure just in front of the pulley turned by the serpentine belt.

Gap is specified as 0.50mm plus or minus 0.25mm. My unscientific observation is that clutch engagement gets a bit flaky when the gap gets up near 0.90mm. Sometimes you can get it working by degreasing the clutch using brake parts cleaner or similar. No disassembly required, just spray it in there.

I checked the gap on my 124.028 while servicing the a/c a few months ago. It's up around 0.80mm and works fine; compressor never drops out on that car. (Knock on wood...).

- JimY

Shade tree quicky check.......snug fit of a credit card.

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

And went out and took a picture of it - I may have another problem. My compressor does not look like the one in Carson356's picture. The one in the picture is stamped "17" on the side which presumably is for a Nippondenso 10PA17. My compressor is stamped "20" in the same place which presumably means Nippondenso 10PA20. I found some other information to indicate that a 17 is an "axial" design while a 20 is a reciprocating piston design. Not sure what the difference would be on a clutch (if mine has a clutch) but I sure don't see a place to measure a gap. Picture of my compressor is attached. So I'm going to go back to working on wiring - seems easier. Thanks for the help.

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It sounds like you have a bad compressor. Those codes usually come on and stop the compressor from engaging when it is starting to go bar. Like when the compressor is not turning at the same rpm with the engine. You can check the rpm from the compressor to the engine, but you are going to need some equipment

By the way, don't worry about gap. Wasting time.