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  #1  
Old 06-10-2006, 12:30 AM
500 SEw126/ BAY AREA CA
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 72
HEADACHE WITH AC/blower etc! w126

Well, about 2 months ago, i was driving i had my heater/blower on since it was cold ( it was on economy at full blast). My ac was not working because it did not have freon. All of a suddent as i was driving, the thing that blows air into the vents stopped. I was almost home so i figured ill check it out tomorrow.

Well fast forward, it has never been working again. No more air from the vents.

Now i want to fix my AC, my compressor does not engage, my blower does not blow, i took off the blower ( the thing that spins on the passanger side) and i took off the wires, and put it on my electric read out ( a light bulp) it did not light up. I went to the front of the compressor, did the same, nothing, i checked rellays, nothing.

Where else should i check ? this thing is driving me crazy! I would like to get this fixed before summer school starts. I would appriciate any advice/tips on how to check whats working and wahts not.

So far it seems like my :
Blower does not work
AC compressor does not engage
Fan infront of the condensor does not engage

So im guessing something is mest up with the cooling/heating system--but i have no idea what! Thanks guys before i g o
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2006, 01:56 AM
GVB GVB is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 178
Replace the bad fuse.
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2006, 02:17 AM
500 SEw126/ BAY AREA CA
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 72
the fuse looks good....i switched the relays and same problem..

Which fuse/relay do you think it is ?
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2006, 02:32 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 783
Quote:
Originally Posted by egutie6970
the fuse looks good....i switched the relays and same problem..

Which fuse/relay do you think it is ?
Do yourself a big favor. Before you do ANY more diagnostic work go down to your local parts vendor and get a full set of fuses for your car. Mercedes Fuses are known for corrosion issues and while they might "look" good they might not be providing a good connection. Also don't do the glass fuses. They never work quite right and have a tendancy to blow frequently.

I had a number of electrical issues in my 300SD that completely went away with new fuses. They are cheap and will save you a ton of headaches.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2006, 03:16 AM
500 SEw126/ BAY AREA CA
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 72
i just went out to do as you said

I replaced all the blue ones
Red ones
and about 75% of the white ones

I ran that light bulp thing to see if it was getting current... its weird If i have the positive thing touching one fuse and touch the same fuse- it dosent light up, if lights up with only some of them that i touch ( other then the one im touching with the positive side)

is that the way it should work?
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2006, 03:22 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,851
Is the key in RUN? Some circuits aren't live when the key's out.

Sixto
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2006, 03:57 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 783
Quote:
Originally Posted by egutie6970
i just went out to do as you said

I replaced all the blue ones
Red ones
and about 75% of the white ones

I ran that light bulp thing to see if it was getting current... its weird If i have the positive thing touching one fuse and touch the same fuse- it dosent light up, if lights up with only some of them that i touch ( other then the one im touching with the positive side)

is that the way it should work?
The fuses are usually run on the positive side of a circuit so touching your light to both ends of the fuse does nothing. Vehicle electrical systems (in most cases) are 12 volt negative ground meaning that you can get the negative side of the battery by touching any part of the metal frame. If you put one side of your lightbulb on a metal object thats grounded and then touch it in the fuse box you will be able to do your testing.

Better than a light bulb would be an VOM to measure the conductivity/resistance of the fuse. Additionally if your only getting 2v at the end of your circuit it might be enough to light your bulb yet not tell you your missing 10v of power. You can get a cheapie at radio shack for $10.

Just for future reliability I would finish the rest of the fuse box as it will save a lot of future headaches.
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