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  #1  
Old 07-10-2006, 09:16 AM
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Location: W. WI
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83 380 SEL Issues

New toy.
Car runs fine with a slight puff from too much fuel in heavy foot mode. 134K miles. Body A+. Trany perfect. 21 MPG average over 900 miles at 75-80 MPH.
Any clues on the issue of cas cap under pressure (not vacuum). I assume the tank relief is pluged but how to DIY fix?
Sunroof will not retract (open) using switch. Switch contacts are good and there is power to the switch. Sunroof closes with the switch. Advice?
I need to replace a missing window regulator and motor. There are several listed for this car. I assume counting the # of motor teeth on the existing (other side rear window) will give me the correct part ???
I'll be inspecting (+?) timing chain.
What is the recommended stretch limit in the timming chain? I believe the CD manual lists 10*.
I see several part houses stock the single roller chains. WHY?
In my research this timing chain is a major issue in this vehicle ... interferance head. What is a reasonable part price for conversion to double roller chain ... chain, connecting link, 2-gears? Tensioners, guides ... also?
Assuming she has been converted to the double chain and I find 10* stretch (questimate) and gears are good ... replace chain and gears or just chain?
If I change the timing chain/gears ... what else do you recommend I look into while under her dress.

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  #2  
Old 07-10-2006, 09:58 AM
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If it's a single row, I personally would change it at no more than 5-6° of stretch. My 4,5 had an outrageous 12° of stretch when I changed my chain out and I wouldn't let it go past 8 personally again. You will need to change your timing chain rails when you do the chain too, they should be cream-colored, yours probably look more like coffee (black). Often times the brittle rails break, leading to a jumped chain. My 4.5 has a dual-row chain, I didn't change the (aluminum-backed) rails or the cam gears, and had 1° of stretch (if that) after finishing. If I were you, I'd replace the chain and upper rails and then remeasure stretch, and if it's like 3° still, then replace the cam gear (assuming it hasn't been converted).

Conversion to double row chains are quite involved, easiest done with the engine out. If you don't pull the engine there's a lot of stuff to work around (radiator, condenser, etc) when doing the job. You HAVE to pull the timing cover and replace:

Cam gears (x2)
Crank gear
Distributor drive gear
Rails (lower and upper)
Tensioner rail (2 lower, 3 upper, IIRC)

This, of course, means removing the crank hub, which I'd imagine to be a pain in the ass with the engine in the car. The cost and complexity of this job is why the single-row chain is still available - many cars have not been converted.
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  #3  
Old 07-10-2006, 02:31 PM
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Thanks Tomyguy.
I assumed the replacement single row chain availiability had to do with labor time and grief. Strange parts houses don't mention this LITTLE point.
Any clues on the other questions?
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  #4  
Old 07-10-2006, 03:37 PM
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Sorry to hijack the thread, but i'm just about to do the job on my euro 500SEL in a few days... I read in the service manual that I need a puller to remove the pins holding the upper rails... how important is it? can I use a tool other than the Mercedes puller to do the job? Engine is a 117.963

Regards
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2006, 10:11 AM
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Thank you pervious owner! (I've never said that before). Double chain with little wear. Guides & gears look good.
Thanks for the replys.
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2006, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben12345
Sorry to hijack the thread, but i'm just about to do the job on my euro 500SEL in a few days... I read in the service manual that I need a puller to remove the pins holding the upper rails... how important is it? can I use a tool other than the Mercedes puller to do the job? Engine is a 117.963

Regards

members have made their own using a bolt and some washers, I suggest doing a search on it.

be SURE to buy the cam gear when changing the chain, as worn gears are likely to chew up the fresh, new chain.
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Last edited by Monomer; 07-14-2006 at 04:25 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:47 PM
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Thanks, i'll look into using the bolt and washer method.
I'm going to leave the gears until the chain is on and measure the 'stretch' afterwards. If its significant i'll do the gears then... I dont fancy doing them for the sake of it if I dont have to. (Especially after looking at the price of them, and the thought of doing the crankshaft one!)

Kind Regards
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  #8  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:30 AM
Bart
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA.
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rail pins

Here is what i used.
Attached Thumbnails
83 380 SEL Issues-pin-tool.jpg  

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