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#1
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Tie rods + Control Arms - DIY - IT'S A GO!!!!
Hi All
This week, my mech recommended some work on the car: Rear control arms (The ones that go kinda front-to-back, I'm not sure if they're thrust or camber control arms). The mech said that the bushing is worn and the arms need to be replaced because they are pushing into the housing. Front Tie Rods - The mech demonstrated by lifting the car and turning the front wheel with his hands and showed that there was play in the tie rod ends (Both left and right) Anyway, I was quoted 50-60 Cdn for each control arm and tie rod, and 2-2.5 hours labour + an alignment. First off, is the above reasonable? Do suspension and steering items wear out in this way? What about costs - are they reasonable? More importantly, can I do this (safely) on my own? I'm a very novice DIYer, but I am willing to spend a whole weekend on this job, if I can do it. If yes, any guidance would be needed and greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch peeps, I hope I can DIY this, because I really don't have the $$$ to spare for mech's labour, etc. I'm guessing I have to cough up for the alignment, but that's unavoidable, I guess....... If anyone wants me to get under the car and take pics, let me know...... EDIT: It's a 1988 190E 2.6 Last edited by mad1; 07-13-2006 at 04:54 PM. |
#2
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I took some pics of the rear control arms:
This is the left control arm. According to the mech, because the bushing is worn, the control arm is pushing into the housing. Can someone verify this from the pic? ![]() Right: Same thing ![]() Anyway, has anyone actually replaced these things? I mean, it looks pretty simple, couple of bolts and that's it. However, the mech said something about the rear control arms being a ***** to remove, needing to be heated up, etc. Any opinion on that??? |
#3
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Hi
I'm a medium DIYer and I did this operation. I replaced all the rear control arms arms by replacing each one in turn. There is one tricky arm where the bolt looks too long to go back in the hole due to the confined space (I can't recall but you will know it when you do it). Just use a lever (big screwdriver) to push it in. Otherwise I would say from 1 to 10, a 6. It is very tedious work with all those bolts that need torquing. Please be careful in placing the jackstands as you will be pushing and pulling those wrenches quite a bit. Front tie rods are easy if you have a tie rod breaker tool. I used the screw in type rather than the pickle fork. Replace also the centre connecting rod and while you're down there, the idle steering arm bushings. Maybe 3/10. Finally you need a 4 wheel alignment. Oh yes, the bolts need to be fully torqued while the car is on the ground to settle them down. Otherwise a wheel alignment can go off if they start to settle after the alignment. Good luck. Regards Oreo
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1992 124 E200 (Euro) |
#4
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Oreo:
What tools did you need for the control arms? Tie rods? I only possess the following: Ratchet and Socket set - upto 17mm Combination Wrench set - upto 22mm And, is a whole weekend enough to do the tie rods and control arms? |
#5
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Good that you asked. I recall now that the new set of arms for the rear uses the 12 point star socket (I forgot the name but its not hex). I didn't have it but got by with a 6 point. I used a half inch socket set which I think is necessary for suspension work because of the higher torques involved. The longer ratchet give better leverage and if you don't have pneumatic you will need them. I also use a Brittool torque wrench to finish up.
You can see if you have all the tools when you buy the replacement arms. The bolts are included. If they come with aluminium sleeves, you don't need those. Depends on which arms you buy.
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1992 124 E200 (Euro) |
#6
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Quote:
****, I only have a 3/8" drive socket set. And no pneumatic stuff. And no long breaker bar. And no torque wrench. How's this for a shopping list? - 1/2" drive breaker bar 1/2" to 3/8" drive socket adapter torque wrench Opinions? Anyone think that being a novice, I will have a hard time getting the job done with the above tools? |
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