Tools for Suspension Work

[mad1]

Hi All

I'm just starting to do little DIY projects on my '88 190E 2.6. I'm starting with a nearly empty garage.

Last I was at my mech, he recommended replacing thrust arms and tie rods - See here . I decided to try to do this myself over the weekend, so am preparing for it.

At the moment, I own:

3/8" drive ratchet, 7 sockets upto 17mm
Combination wrench set, 11 wrenches, upto 22mm
2 jack stands


Umm, that's it. I've been doing some searching, and discussion, and I think I may need some more tools. Thing is, I can't afford a good $600 set of air tools right now.


Here's what I'm thinking:

Breaker bar - $35 or so at Canadian Tire
Maybe torque wrench, if required



If air tools are needed, I can get a cheap 2 scfm compressor for less than $100, impact wrench and sockets for another $50-100. OR, I could get one of those impact drivers and use a hammer with it.


Anyway, what do you guys suggest? I'd like to avoid buying air tools for this project, because I can't afford to do justice and buy a decent set at this time. But if I have to bite the bullet, do let me know..........



P.S. I'm an _absolute_ noob with car repair - trying to change that though ......

[tvpierce]

Air tools are great, but they are a luxury for the shadetree tech. An air/impact driver can't come close to the torque you can apply with a breaker bar, and a piece of pipe as an extension -- I have a high quality 500lb/ft air/impact drive, and it's not even close. (BTW: If you buy a breaker bar, also go to the hardware store and get yourself a 6 foot length of pipe. Cut 2 feet off from it, and you now have the ability to add 2 feet and a 4 feet to your breaker bar.)

Having compressed air in your shop comes in handy for a ton of jobs, but I can't think of any job for which it's required. (you can even fill tires with a hand pump if necessary)

I don't know what brand ratchet and wrenches you have, but you need a good set if you're doing suspension work -- you will be pushing them to their torque limits. Craftsman are generally the best value for us non-pros. In addition to your 3/8" set, I would recommend a 1/2" set as well. Again, I'd recommend Craftsman for the ratchet and/or breaker bar. Here's a good way save some money on the sockets: go to your auto parts store, and buy a set of 1/2" metric IMPACT sockets. They'll be $20 for a whole set and they're 6 point sockets. I have 2 sets (deep well and standard depth) made by Great Neck (not a "great" tool company, but I've used these hundreds of times with some major torque.) Another advantage to getting the impact sockets is that if you do get air tools in the future, you don't need a new set of sockets.

And the one tool that every tech needs -- especially if you're working on suspenion -- is a propane torch ($25 at the hardware store). The pros refer to their oxy/ace torch as their "heat wrench". Propane is not as hot a oxy/ace, and of course you can't cut with it, but it's amazing what heat can do for a rusted/stuck fastener.

So here's my list:
- 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar (both if budget permits)
- Set of 1/2" impact sockets
- 1/2" impact extension (6")
- Propane torch
- 6' length of steel pipe (ask the hardware/home store folks to cut it for you)
- Fire extinguisher (not a bad idea to have in your car anyway, but a must-have for the shop.)
- Crescent/adjustable wrench -- 12 inch is a good size (you'd be surprised how many times you need a second wrench to hold a bolt from spinning, and you're already using the size you need on the nut. Or it'll save your butt when you encounter a fastener that's one size larger than your largest wrench)
- Toque wrench
- Set of screwdrivers

Good luck.

Jeff Pierce

[Oreo]

Hi Mad1

I read your postings again and I feel that if you have not done this type of work before or have the proper tools, you might want to rethink DIY. The main danger is having the car up in the air and pushing and pulling on those wrenches. Although the work is not technically difficult, it is very tedious and will probably take about 4-5 hours for the rear arms. I see from your pictures there is also a lot of rust on your rear arms, so add some time for that. But I think the 3/8 socket set is not going to make it and the breaker bar is a must. Torque wrench is optional.

In the end however, its your call, study the manual and go from there. If you do go ahead you will have our support.

Oreo

[lee polowczuk]

I think you can do it....

i would use pb blaster.... 3x over a week on the nuts and bolts.

i would invest in a craftsman 1/2 socket set and a good set of craftsmen wrenches..

going to the hardware store and getting a 6 foot steel bar cut into a 4 foot and two foot length was very good advice..

i am always scrounging around for a leverage breaker bar.

[kth286]

mad 1

Everyone has forgotten the essential ball joint splitter for the front tie rods.

Regards

[BobK]

Let me say a word about jack stands. The car is going to be up in the air with you under it. If it falls on you, you will probably die. Please use good quality stands with a lot of excess weight bearing capacity. Some stands are not much more than a steel tube that had been split three ways with a little reinforcing. Please do not use this kind. Good jack stands usually have four stout legs and an adjustable height cast iron seat. Even then be carefull.
Crazy as it sounds, after putting the car up on stands, I like to stand by the car and shake, push, pull, whatever on the body as hard as I can. If it is going to drop, better when I am next to it and only the car and floor suffers.
For extra protection, I usually slide the tire I have removed under the cars' frame rail. Why am I so careful? I had a car fall off a scissors jack once when I was young and foolish. I was lucky enough to be just forward of the front bumper when it happened. Dense as I was, I got the message. Now I have 3ton and 6 ton jackstands and a good 3.5 ton flat jack.
Funny thing: I was once taking loose the differential drain plug on my old 560SEL (126 body). I had a breaker bar and pipe extension like was mentioned (great idea, btw). I was putting so much torque on the plug (180 pound me on a 4 foot bar =?), I started to worry that I would twist the car right off the jackstands. Plug did come loose first.
Oh, and a 24oz. ball-peen hammer can be real useful too.

[mad1]

Wow, plenty of great advice. OK, here is the plan:


My socket and wrench sets are Mastercraft brand, equivalent to crasftsman, I've heard. They have a lifetime warranty at Canadian Tire (ubiquitous hardware chain in Canada)

I'm not going to get into air tools for this project. Here's my shopping list:


1/2" Breaker Bar - 18" is good enough right?
Torque wrench - as cheap as possible
If I find 1/2" impact sockets for $20 or less, I'll get those. Else, I'll get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and use my existing 3/8" sockets with the breaker bar.
6 foot Steel pipe
Adjustable wrench, screwdrivers


One more question - how high should I raise the car? My ****ty little wind-up jack that came with the car can only raise the car a few inches off the ground. Should I invest in a hydraulic floor jack that will raise it higher? More jack stands?




Now, addressing the individual posters:

Jeff Pierce: Thanks for the detailed list, as you can see above, I've used most of it. I don't know about the propane torch yet, let me see how bad it looks down there and maybe I'll pick it up over the weekend.

Oreo: I have little experience or tools, that's why I'm trying to build up both. I'll keep your advice in mind - that's why I'm going to spend 100-200 on tools for this job. That way, I only lack experience .


Lee: Thanks for the vote of confidence. What is this PB Blaster thing? Penetrating Oil, right? Is it available in Canada? I'll search and pick some up before the weekend. Not sure if I can wait another week, but let's see....


kth286: Ball Joint splitter? Do I have to remove ball joints to get at the tie rods? I'll have to load up MB WIS when I get home to check the procedure, I guess. My local parts store does have a tie rod separator for free loan, is that what you're referring to, by any chance?


BobK: Jack stands - I have something that look exactly like these, except they're Pro-Lift brand, 2-ton. I will put my wheel under the frame as a backup. What do you think? Should I buy two more jack stands for the fronts to raise the entire car at the same time????

[lee polowczuk]

pb blaster is penetrating oil...... seems to be the best i have ever come across... or i am having good luck with it...

i don't want to be cavalier about the jack stand thing..... i usually only have one side up at a time... i have the jack in the slot.... then Two jack stands under the car... and throw the tire under there...

i don't think i have ever had two wheels off the ground at the same time... maybe...but i can't remember....

good luck....

[mad1]

Originally Posted by lee polowczuk

pb blaster is penetrating oil...... seems to be the best i have ever come across... or i am having good luck with it...

i don't want to be cavalier about the jack stand thing..... i usually only have one side up at a time... i have the jack in the slot.... then Two jack stands under the car... and throw the tire under there...

i don't think i have ever had two wheels off the ground at the same time... maybe...but i can't remember....

good luck....

So is it safer to have one or two wheels off the ground? I'd think one because of balance. What about 6x8 wood blocks ? Are they better support than jack stands?

[mad1]

OK, I've decided to go ahead with the project, this weekend. I'll be ordering parts and buying tools tomorrow, and working on the car over the weekend. I'll be doing tie rods first, then rear (thrust) control arms (what exactly are those things called anyway?)


For updates on my progress, see here .

I would still greatly appreciate any tool advice in this thread though......

[tvpierce]

A quick note about your sockets: Your 3/8" sockets will not stand up to the torque you're going to apply to them just using an 18" breaker bar -- never mind adding pipe extensions. You MUST have 1/2" sockets if you're using a breaker bar.

Good luck... we're pulling for you.

Jeff Pierce

[mad1]

Originally Posted by tvpierce

A quick note about your sockets: Your 3/8" sockets will not stand up to the torque you're going to apply to them just using an 18" breaker bar -- never mind adding pipe extensions. You MUST have 1/2" sockets if you're using a breaker bar.

Good luck... we're pulling for you.

Jeff Pierce

Hmm, I see. OK, I'll go and look for 1/2" impact socket sets.....



Crap, cheapest impact socket set is $50 at Sears!!!!!!! Comes with 7-8 sockets. Not really worth it, is it? What to do? I want to do this project this weekend so can't wait for ebay.... anyone know any used tool stores in the Toronto area?

[Strife]

Originally Posted by BobK

Let me say a word about jack stands...

All of this post is valuable, I agree entirely; I always make sure I have a primary and secondary support system for working under a car, and I still spend as little time as possible under it. You should NEVER work under a car alone (be within at least screaming distance of someone). Tires under a car are excellent backup; they can make the difference between an injury and leaving a big mess for someone else to clean up.

[Oreo]

Hi Mad1

My main worry is you jacking up that car and being under it for the first time doing quite a big job. I also slide the wheels under the rails for added safety. I use a floor jack to jack up the car from the diff (some will say it hurts the bushes but if its going to go it probably gone anyway I feel). I know of no real spots to put the jackstand except under the jacking pads. I always do both wheels in the air as I think the car will be more stable with 2 jackstands because the resting on on wheel actually makes the car shaky dues to the suspension. Please can the others can chime in here.

Also don't forget the 12 point hex drive. Study the new arms bolts supplied when you get them and you will know what you need. We don't doubt your ability, it just the safety issue.

Good luck again

Oreo

[hs_300e]

[QUOTE=mad1]
Torque wrench - as cheap as possible
QUOTE]

I would get a decent quality torque wrench. Atleast with a decent quality, you can "assume" that the calibration is correct.

Also, if you get a clicker type torque wrench, make sure your release the load on the spring when storing it.