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  #16  
Old 07-14-2006, 09:18 AM
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Location: Southeastern PA
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Sears sells a Craftsman "clicker type" 1/2" drive torque wrench that is a quality tool. It's a good value because you have the Craftsman lifetime guarantee.

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  #17  
Old 07-14-2006, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oreo
Hi Mad1

My main worry is you jacking up that car and being under it for the first time doing quite a big job. I also slide the wheels under the rails for added safety. I use a floor jack to jack up the car from the diff (some will say it hurts the bushes but if its going to go it probably gone anyway I feel). I know of no real spots to put the jackstand except under the jacking pads. I always do both wheels in the air as I think the car will be more stable with 2 jackstands because the resting on on wheel actually makes the car shaky dues to the suspension. Please can the others can chime in here.

Also don't forget the 12 point hex drive. Study the new arms bolts supplied when you get them and you will know what you need. We don't doubt your ability, it just the safety issue.

Good luck again

Oreo

Actually, it isn't my first time under the car. I changed the O2 sensor a couple of months ago, that's when I have jack stands from. But yeah, you can never be too careful about these things...... I promise, I'll be careful and have backup plans .....

Oh, and I wasn't able to get rear suspension parts this weekend cuz citywide MB dealers had issues with their system, so it's only going to be front tierods this weekend, rear thrust arms a couple weeks from now.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2006, 11:06 PM
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I know you guys are going to be disappointed in me but I couldn't bring myself to spend big bucks. Here is what I bought:

Torque wrench - Beam type - it is double-headed so can drive 3/8 or 1/2" sockets. - $10

3/8" impact socket set (I got it really cheap, so I went ahead) - $15

Liquid Wrench


Since I'm only going to do the tie rods this weekend, I'll hold off the breaker bar and the 1/2" impact socket set. If the tie rod job goes ok, I'll feel comfortable spending some money on a better torque wrench which I'll probably need for the rear suspension.
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  #19  
Old 07-15-2006, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad1
I know you guys are going to be disappointed in me but I couldn't bring myself to spend big bucks. Here is what I bought:

Torque wrench - Beam type - it is double-headed so can drive 3/8 or 1/2" sockets. - $10

3/8" impact socket set (I got it really cheap, so I went ahead) - $15

Liquid Wrench


Since I'm only going to do the tie rods this weekend, I'll hold off the breaker bar and the 1/2" impact socket set. If the tie rod job goes ok, I'll feel comfortable spending some money on a better torque wrench which I'll probably need for the rear suspension.
Excellent compromise on the socket set -- I hadn't thought of that. Since they're impact sockets, I'm sure they'll hold up to much more torque than standard 3/8" sockets. You will still need a breaker bar though. The 3/8" ratchet is now your weakest link.

Good luck.

Jeff Pierce
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  #20  
Old 07-19-2006, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce
Excellent compromise on the socket set -- I hadn't thought of that. Since they're impact sockets, I'm sure they'll hold up to much more torque than standard 3/8" sockets. You will still need a breaker bar though. The 3/8" ratchet is now your weakest link.

Good luck.

Jeff Pierce

Bought a 1/2" breaker bar on Saturday, alongwith a 1/2->3/8" adapter, which broke on the third lugnut. Sunday, bought another 1/2->3/8" impact adapter, which worked fine. I'm now on the lookout for a 1/2" impact socket set, enough with these stupid adapters......

Oh, and I finished the tie rods (see the other thread) over the weekend. Woohoo.

I was pretty safe with jacking up the car and everything - I rocked, pushed and pulled the car, etc., used the MB jack as a backup in addition to the jack stands...... Thanks to everyone for their advice and support!!!!
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  #21  
Old 07-19-2006, 10:27 PM
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Congratulations!

It is rewarding to be self reliant in the world of automotive repair, isn't it?

Those tools will pay for themselves 100 times over.

BTW, Liquid Wrench is basically useless as a penetrating fluid. Get yourself a can of PB Blaster... you'll be glad you did.

jp
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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
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  #22  
Old 07-19-2006, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce
Congratulations!

It is rewarding to be self reliant in the world of automotive repair, isn't it?

Those tools will pay for themselves 100 times over.

BTW, Liquid Wrench is basically useless as a penetrating fluid. Get yourself a can of PB Blaster... you'll be glad you did.

jp
Haha, yeah it's satisfying to be self-reliant..... Just need to save up for some air tools and populate my garage so it doesn't take me a whole weekend to shop for tools and wrench away

Well, local parts stores in Toronto don't have PB blaster, at least the ones I checked. Maybe I should order some from Phil, if he has it....
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  #23  
Old 07-21-2006, 02:27 PM
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I doubt Phil carries it. Try Wal Mart or any similar discount store... the stuff is pretty common.

jp
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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2006, 02:52 PM
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Pickle fork, 1## pc. socket/wrench set (usually under $100 @ walmart for Stanley tools). With your collection of tools, I hardly think you should be looking at buy all high end stuff. Craftsman tools are nice, but hardly needed for the typical DIY. Is there a harbor freight store in your area? You might want to try a place like that. Low quality tools, but you probably won't be using them day after day anyway.
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2006, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattBelliveau
Pickle fork, 1## pc. socket/wrench set (usually under $100 @ walmart for Stanley tools). With your collection of tools, I hardly think you should be looking at buy all high end stuff. Craftsman tools are nice, but hardly needed for the typical DIY. Is there a harbor freight store in your area? You might want to try a place like that. Low quality tools, but you probably won't be using them day after day anyway.
No, there isn't any harbor freight in my area..... I'm in Canada..... and I doubt they ship here anyway
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  #26  
Old 07-21-2006, 09:44 PM
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I agree that you don't have to buy professional quality tools for shadetree work. But when it comes to sockets, ratchets, and a set of box/open end wrenches, Craftsman is worth the slightly higher cost. These are tools that you use on EVERY job, and they simply do not wear out -- even if they did, Sears will replace them for free. And having a higher quality fit, and better steel, means fewer rounded fasteners and jobs that go much easier.

In my humble opinion.

jp

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
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