Help! Help!

I am working on my 1980 450sl and last night I was trying to remove my steering wheel to get to my instrument cluster. After 3 trips to Lowes, I finally got the 10 mm Hex Wrench that I need for the hex bolt keeping the wheel on, but for the life of me I cannot get that bolt to break. I'm at the point where I don't want to try to too hard b/c I'm afraid I may damage the wheel or components with too much force.

Has anyone had this problem, and does anyone know anything that may help me get this thing off? I assume that it's just a regular hex bolt, it's just in really tight, but that it is threaded like any other bolt. Is this true?



Thanks!!

These bolts are indeed VERY tight. I needed to use an impact gun to get mine off and I suggest that you do the same or you might break the steering lock if you are pushing against it with a hand tool.

Also, the manual indicates this is a "one time" use bolt and should be replaced any time it is removed...I re-used mine but thought you might like to know that fact.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

NHdoc is right use a air impact and it will pop right off! Use it to put it back to!

Smokie

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95 E420 BigBlue
500E Sway bars
2001 C Class 16 in. Rims
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Thanks guys, I'll try that.

Do you know if a standard household air compressor (150 psi or so) will provide enough torque to get it done. I believe the MBZ manual says that the bolt should be tightened to 50 Nm.

Thanks!

I've never had to resort to air to loosen the steering wheel bolt, but have had to use two people. Those buggers get tight. Do not use the wheel lock to provide counter tension - sure fire way to ruin the assembly. Once you break it loose you will be able to unscrew with your fingertips. Use the second person to hold the wheel still (provide counter tension) while you get after it with a breaker bar, use a cheater pipe for extra leverage.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

150psi should be enough pressure assuming the compressor will provide enough cfm for the gun.Worth a try.
Gilly
(Yes it is right hand thread, lefty loosy righty tighty)

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I'd torque to spec to put it back and NOT use an impact gun. The spec is 80 NM (60 ft-lbs) for the countersunk bolt according to alldata.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I've done this before on my 79 240D...

It CAN be a one person job, though it IS a REALLY tight bolt...

Use a breaker bar that's just an inch or 2 longer than the outer edge of the wheel rim. Use a socket entender to bring the breaker bar to just SLIGHTLY higher than the wheel rim. Use left hand to "strong arm" the wheel stationary while using right hand to turn breaker bar (positioned near left hand) (If I remember correctly, I MAY have actually stuck my leg through the lower part of the wheel rim to gain leverage...??...didn't have a helper nearby, and didn't want to wait!)

It takes quite a bit of strength. (I tried my Craftsman AC- electric impact gun and it did not have enough power to loosen it)

Good luck!

J.G.

I did basically the same procedure as Jay, although I just held the wheel with my right while exerting force on the end of the breaker with my left. It's really not that hard, but you basically MUST use a 10mm hex socket rather than a standard allan wrench.

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1987 Mercedes 300D

When I did this I was just starting out so I didn't have much in the way of tools. I actually used an allen wrench and a long handled pipe wrench. There is blue Loctite on this bolt so maybe a soak of PB blaster might help.

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400