There's a throttle actuator??? ,,, OR do you mean The Electronic Accelerator Pedal Actuator.

It has many different names. If the car is running just keep checking and clearing the codes.

Some people call it the throttle body.

It is also known is the ISC / EA / CC actuator.

Idle speed control / electronic accelerator/ cruise control.

It sits underneath your intake manifold. It is a widely known failure part on M104 and M119 engines.

Yep that's what the code scanner points to, actually spells it out M16/1 is the location on the drawing.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to tear that far into this car. I definitely hope it's something I can repair.

I'll keep yawl posted.

Marty

Mileage 100740

I've driven the 400e a few times now and seem to think that the "issue" (I'm calling it an issue because the ASR has been defeated and the car will not go into LH mode. Thus hopefullt allowing me to return the car to good working order.)

REad the codes again, this time I didn't need the paperwork. Still getting #30 - Can and # 6 ETA

The car seems to run fine when cold. The gas pedal is a little quirky, either you accelerate rather fast, or very slowly. - Now please realize my daily driver is a 300SD turbo diesel, so acceleration is a relative term here.

Cruise doesn't work

When the car seems to be running correctly, the temp gauge reads 80, when it's misbehaving, the temp increases to around 90

When the car misbehaves, it's rather difficult to maintain a steady speed. It seems to cough immediately prior to the little bit of acceleration needed to maintain a constant speed. But when I accelerate moderately everything seems fine.

Gonna pull codes again, I love playing with my home-made code scanner.

Marty

Mileage 100784

Just today I had the experience of sputtering/coughing for about 2 seconds when accelerator was pressed, then the car took off. I'm starting to wonder if the problem might be a rough spot in the potnetiometer. Seems that the car misbehaves when the accelerator pedal is in one particular spot. This would explain why I couldn't keep a steady speed on the freeway, also could explain my feelings about the acceleration issue.

We'll see. but for now, pulling codes and test driving.

Marty

Mileage 100841

Muffler falls off. You know this car (without a muffler) reminds me of my '84 monte carlo SS. It has that deep rumble sound at idle. I kinda like it.

Aside from the muffler, I've noticed that I only have problems after the car has warmed up. I drove about one mile to church today. The car sat for 45 minutes, on the way home the car acted up.

The car never got up to temperature. Maybe 50-60C at most. but I 'm guessing the heat soak from sitting managed to disrupt whatever so the car acted up. Acting up is no power on acceleration, but press the pedal further down and instantly accelerates.

mileage 100864

I have noticed on several occassions that when the car is acting up, it seems to be oscillating in RPM. About once a second (or every 2 seconds) the RPM increases then decrease. This is at idle and/or light acceleration (enough to maintain 35 MPH)

It reminds me of a ground loop.

Is this still the signs of a bad EA?

O2 sensor comes to mind - although usually, it's when the engine is cold, that you notice a bad one the most. But hey...throw some holy water on it, and if it doesn't catch fire, continue working on it ;)

It still sounds to me like you have the classic symptoms of a bad throttle actuator.

Bekman technologies in North Carolina rebuilds them.

Many forum members have gone this route.

Try the search function.

JimF has been particularly helpful. Read this thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=112493&highlight=throttle

If you have taken the ASR offline, then the cruise will not work. Just un-plugging a speed sensor up by the front shock towers is the easiest way to defeat ASR too. You'll lose ABS also (which I don't like anyway)

It can be frustrating to track down the cause of your 'limp mode' and its usually not the ASR module. Little items like the brake stop lamp switch, neutral lock-out switch and accelerator kick-down switch can sometimes be the only problem(s). There's a switch for the accelator pedal also on the top of it under the dash. A weak battery or faulty voltage regualtor can throw a spike in the electronics and cause it too. Could also be the TBA as stated before, which is probably the biggest $ item to replace. Both of your wiring harnesses should be newe(er) to rule out the known problems they cause if old. And the codes thrown often, but not always, are merely ghosts, pointing you to where the problem isn't. Checking all the grounds is a good idea too. Some of them are in places that get cruddy.

Keep us posted on how the fix goes. :)

I had the same problem with my 89 C230K and as David Poole said earlier it was the brake light switch that was the problem. I replaced it and all is well. It runs and drives as new.

Steve

After a few more miles (101290)

The car behaves as such:

When cold (0-about 5 minutes) (<70C) the car runs great. After the 5 minutes (or so) the following symptoms occur:

1) The accelerator pedal is offset, meaning I push about 1/2 inch before I get a reaction from the car
2) The tranny seems to stay into gear longer (maybe because I have to press further on the pedal telling the tranny I'm accelerating faster/harder then I really am.
3) The engine runs hotter


Jim --- I defeated the ASR so that I wouldn't get the car into the apply brake mode when accelerating. Since I have defeated the ASR, I have been able to drive the car without the problems associated with limp-homoe mode, namely the brakes being applied when they shouldn't.

Marty

I say replace the throttle acutator as well, www.4mercedes.com rebuilds them and are considrably less exspensive then bekkman technologies. Until you replace the part symptoms are going to occur.

Chris

I'm hesitant replacing the Throttle actuator because once I go messing with the wiring harness, I may end up having to replace it.