So you dropped your car at the dealer on 12-6-06 for a diagnostic.

What did they tell you?

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Dealer told me it was a "hard fault" and they want to replace the EA befoe they do anything else. I am currently looking for a reasonably priced EA. (This will make the 4th EA in the car or one about every 25K miles.) Dealer also told me they could NOT find the P/N's for the modules in my car.

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Were all the EA's you already installed new or rebuilt?

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

where is the connector you refered to by the shock towers on the front of the car that can disable the asr?

1st was at 21K miles, warranty from the factory on 5/24/93 the second one replaced was a rebuild form beckman technologies.

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I've had a few neutral safety switches with dead spots set off the asr and put the car into limp home, but have you checked codes and checked the throttle actuator harness for cracked wiring??

Is it my imagination or do ASR throttle actuators fail way more often than non-ASR throttle actuators? You rarely ever hear about the latter failing. It's a different part but why the difference in performance?

It does seem like the ASR's have alot more problems,,,, anyone know what I need to do to get the ECU to mate t o the throttle slide?

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OK I broke down and got another EA. I could swear the dealer told me it was a 4 hour job to R/R the EA. Took me under one hour. BUT I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS AS BEFORE.

The car idles really sweet at 500 RPM, no vibration, no coughing or sputtering, until it warms up, then it's back to limp home mode, coughing shaking sputtering etc.

I have not checked the cruise to see if that works now.

When I replaced the EA, I first hooked it up and calibrated the EA to the module. (Key On Engine Off for 90 seconds) after about 30 seconds the butterfly moves and I heard a sound. I then installed the EA and the car seems to run better then on the old one, but only until it warms up Then it's same old crap.

Anyone got any other ideas? I think it's gotta be heat related because it only acts up after the car warms up.

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I had a 1993 300E (3.2) "E320" that had a similar problem.

The engine would idle fine, until it reached operating temperature, when the idle would start fluctuating wildly up and down.

I replaced the throttle actuator, but it didn't fix the problem.

I took it to the dealer, and they diagnosed the problem as a bad intake manifold seal.

They replaced the intake manifold gasket, and the problem completely went away.

Food for thought.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Well, the cruise works now (with the new EA installed),,, also the tranny shifts like it should. When I put the other ECU module in I still don't have any accelerator, so I'm guessing that the module is not the correct one for this car (module form a 1993, my car is a 1992).

But I still gotta figure out why it runs like crap when the car warms up.

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mespe e mail philipsee1@yahoo.com, , lot of those folks in london have gone thru the process without having to change anything except the harness, he'll teach you how to fix it, a member of this site called him long distance and was worth the call, now he not only save precious monay, he even had his ASR problems resolved in a flash. Its a trade secret much like a doctor who specialises on a certain field.

Thanks cool, I sent an email,,,, now I'm playing the waiting game.

I did pull the codes and I still get code 3 but also got code 6. Only got code 3 after the car warmed up. When cold and pulling the codes I get none, whereas with the old EA I got a code 3 even after resetting the codes and not driving the car.

3 - Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank) (M16/1)

6 - Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch



Marty

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You're getting these codes from where?

The two codes I listed are from the diagnostic connector. Ground is pin 1, +12 V is pin 3 probe is on pin 7.

One thing I forgot to mention, is that it seems when the car is acting up it doesn't matter how far I mash (depress) the go pedal all I get is stumbling. I haven't tried to mash it and hold it there, I've mashed it, then released it and mashed and released and mashed again and the car then sometimes starts to respond. I thknk what I need to do is make a video of the symptoms.

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