And you get no codes on 4, or 8, or 17?

Did you notice this - it's compatible with your code 6.

I don't recall any other codes - other then a code 30 for the ASR, but that's prol because I interrupted the connections to the ASR module as indicated in an earlier post. I'll have to check on 4, but nothing on 8 or 17.

Yes I noticed it, but the consistency of the failure occurring at approximately the same engine temp should rule out the switch.

As example, I drive the car to the store, works fine all the way <1 mile. Do my shopping, approx 30 minutes, start the car and it starts acting up.

Harbor Freight sells something called an in-line spark checker - normally $6 each, presently on sale for $3. You hook them up between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. They create a flash as the spark goes to the spark plug. Buy 8 of them, hook them up, turn off the lights, and you'd know absolutely positively that you were getting good spark to all 8 plugs, cold and then hot. Of course if you were having an ignition problem it should show up on the DI, pin 17, but I find it comforting to actuallly watch the spark go to the plug.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36258

mileage 101893 3-15-07

I just pulled codes again, the only code I got was on pin 6 which is "30 CAN data line to electronic accelerator/cruise control/idle speed control module" which I expect because I have defeated the asr.

No fault codes currently on 4, 7, 8, or 17

I'll take the car on a short 2 mile test drive and pull the codes again. 1 mile, turn off car for 5 minutes and 1 miles back.

mileage 101897 3-15-07 12:38 PM Eastern standard

Some corrections, Post office is 2 miles each way, not 1 mile as stated in previous post.

Car performed flawlessly.
Ambient temp = 35F
Coolant temp at post office approx 70C
Coolant temp after return approx 75C

Codes pulled 4,7,8,17 none.

maybe another short test drive is in order.

You didn't like my intake manifold seal example? Have you checked it?

I contend there's no such thing as defeating ASR, short of the thousand dollar option someone was selling a while back. I'd be afraid that was somehow contributing to your problem.

It's not that I didn't like your manifold seal example, it's just that the engine doesn't fluctuate wildly, it's still a consideration though. The engine hasn't fluctauated since I installed the new EA. but I only have driven it maybe a total of 15 miles on the new EA. I jsut got back from the store and with the old EA I would have experienced problems, with the new one no problems yet (today) but the ambient temp has dropped about 30F.

To defeat ASR simply disconnect pins 25 35 and 37 on the ASR module. I did this by putting a piece of tape inbetween the module and the connector. Apparantly all it does is prevent the ASR from working, but it keeps the ASR warning lamp on.

But your earlier posts indicated that this caused some operating problems - forget what they were.

Mileage 101903

If you're referring to the idle speed I don't think it was due to defeating the ASR because the idle speed is fine now.

Today 10 miles no problems at all. I did turn the radio off,,, I wonder if that had anything to do to it. I reached 80C coolant temps. Let the car sit a few times inbetween drives (heat soak).

Maybe tomorrow I'll venture a little further and see what happens. Wouldn't that be a trip,,, radio causing driveability problems.

mileage 101938 3-16-07

So far so good,,,

ambient = 28F
Radio = OFF
hiccups = 0

miles driven today = 35

So I'm starting to think either the radio or higher ambient temps are causing my problems. higher ambient temps would effect basically anything not attached to the engine as the engine reached normal operating temperature and any sensor attached to the engine would have gotten up to temp as well. Any electronics not attached to the engine would still be alot cooler then when the car acted up when I first changed the EA (and ambient temps were 68F).

Which leads me to believe that the Alpine radio 4x50Watts might have been causing the hiccups.

Stay tuned for further updates.

Did you ever find a resolution? My ASR light is INTERMITTENT with a resulting limp-mode and high-RPM upshifts. Over the past 30k, PO's shop replaced "idle contact switch" and JUST replaced "throttle body actuator." What exact parts are these? If these have been replaced, before I take it to the next shop for a proper diagnosis, what should I expect them to tell me?

I want to get a first-time fix on this thing if possible, and I will be waiting a few days for a shop manual. This thing is quite a bit more complex than my old c230, and I don't want to get into throwing parts at it based on codes, when there may be a small contact or switch issue.