Where is it? I have been told by many that this is my problem. I took all the covers and carpet from the driver's footwell and can see under the dash but I don't really know what this item looks like.

Its an aluminum enclosed module. Measures about 6" x 4" x 1.5" with a black electrical connector on one end. I am not sure on your car but they are generally located near the steering column by the drivers feet under the dash.

__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

Thanks, Dave. I'll have another look. I was actually looking for something smaller.

Found it and the new one is on the way. Hope that's the problem but if it isn't, it would have eventually gone bad. Thanks.

Send me your old one. I can fix them. I can send you a fedex shipper so it will cost you nothing.

__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

Dave, how much to repair if I send you mine? I am not certain this is the cause of my dead cruise control but figured it's worth a try.

I have consulted resources, including my "124 Bible" and cannot figure out how to get my amplifier out from behind the dash panel

It appears I need to pull the lower portion of the panel directly under the steering column, but, no joy yet! Any tips from those experienced in this procedure?

is the amp. the problem if it starts surging while the cruise is on, my unit will work great for a while then start searching like it can't hold the throttle, if this is it you can check mine also as I don't have the money for a new one, thanks richard

Anybody?? BTW, it is an '87 260E

Well, the cruise control saga has come to a conclusion, at least for now. I gave up on repairing the cruise because my test results pointed to the actuator and it was too pricey and hard to DIY from the looks of things. I turned my attention to the odometer, which I had made attempts to repair before, knowing I could DIY and having sources from this forum for parts. I purchased a speedometer head and during the installation, opted to leave the speed sensor that came with the unit in place instead of changing it for my old one. Good choice. Now the odo works and the cruise does also, flawlessly I might add. There's a bonus! So thanks to all the posters for the help along the way. I'm learning more about this car every week and now I was able to teach for a change! And I have an extra amp that I would be willling to plug in and test and sell. W124, 1990 300E.
Have a grand day, I just did!

Gotta update any interested folks. Sent off my amp to Dave with a check and he must have turned it around to me in about one or two days. Popped the amp in tonight and drove through a number of cruise settings and situations and it worked like a charm. Lemme see now, $35 to Dave for a fix or $400 for a new amp...


THANK YOU DAVE.

I, among many others here, resoldered the amp in my 90 300TE and it came back to life for a couple weeks before going belly up again.

Does the board put out too much heat to prevent using silicon to fill half the housing to eliminate vibration like BMW does on the relays on my 86 K75 motorcycle?

Granted it would mean the board couldn't be removed again, but if it keeps the joints from cracking, who needs to remove it? Then again, I don't want to start a fire either...