Back to Square One w/No - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MB Paba · #1 08-29-2006, 08:41 PM

My '97 E300D (131K) is having an intermitant No crank situation. The dash lights come on but not always the same ones. Sometimes its just the lower ones and on subsequent turns of the key, the yellow ! will come on and the reserve fuel light. When it does start, the ETS code on the screen can be reset. It has said Display defective as well but it clears too. What does Display Defective Mean?

Every few tries there is a slight clicking sound like it could possibly be the starter solenoid.

I have: R&R battery for testing-Good
R&R the starter for testing-spun right up, tested Good
Removed the K40 and soldered 4 hairline cracks, car started and ran fine for 2 days, now won't.

Questions: Does anyone think a new K40 could solve the problem? What do you make of the starter solenoid sounding like it is trying to kick in once in awhile? The headlights stay strong when the ignition is turned to start but the A/C blower motor drags way down.

Would be VERY grateful for some help...
MB Paba

TMAllison · #2 08-29-2006, 09:44 PM

You say at times it will not crank at all when the key is turned and that teh battery is good.

Is it possible the battery in the key is low and is preventing the key from communicating with the car sometimes?

When my shut off solenoid malfunctioned I could tell if it would start when the key was turned to position 2 by hearing the valve open with a click on the side of the IP. This sound is much quieter than what I would describe the typical starter solenoid kick.

Gilly · #3 08-29-2006, 10:06 PM

The "display defective" is a self-fault message for the DIC (driver information center), in other word the instrument cluster is narcing on itself.
Whole problem reeks of a bad ignition switch (electrical switch, not the lock)
Gilly

MB Paba · #4 08-30-2006, 07:06 AM

The usual clicking of the fuel shutoff and air valve still happen. The once in awhile rapid clicking does sound like the starter solenoid. Haven't been able to get the car to crank at all now for a couple of days.

Gilly,
Yes, it does seem like the ignition switch is having some problem because when I move the ignition assy. up and down different lights may come on the cluster.

Any diffinitive way to determine if the electrical part of the switch is bad? Does it unplug from the back of the lock cyl? The whole assy. is a bit loose.

Thanks for the input!

Gilly · #5 08-30-2006, 04:07 PM

Yes it more or less is plug and play. There is a cumbersome electrical connector that is removed, then a couple plastic pins which secure the switch into the lock housing. Not too bad to do once you know how to do it, first time seems hard. Not liking the description of the whole assembly feeling loose, that's odd and I can't explain it. The housing is attached to the steering column pretty darn securely, the housing being loose is the only way the switch or lock should seem loose.
If you can monitor voltage at the small wire to the starter, it should tell you if you are getting battery voltage to the starter to pull in the solenoid, would be a good bet it's the switch if you aren't getting battery voltage in the "crank" position on the switch. You can also jump battery voltage to that small connector on the solenoid and the starter should engage. Check battery voltage lately?
Gilly

MB Paba · #6 09-02-2006, 08:25 PM

Gilly,
I removed the under dash panel today and checked things out. I also have printed out the WIS docs.
Yes, the whole assy. is loose and wobbles where it goes into the steering column. Should I just tighten up the bolt?

I will jack the car up tomorrow and check battery voltage to the solenoid wire from the ign. switch.

Can you explain why the instructions say to remove the escutchon around the key switch first? Can it just be taken off from the bottom end or does the turning it out unscrew it from the elect. switch? It started to turn out with my fingers and then stopped. When I got under the dash and looked, an electrical wire was getting tight from the turning of the assy. I guess it is the transponder coil wire.

Many Thanks,
MB Paba