transmission fluid change - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lee polowczuk · #1 08-30-2006, 09:58 AM

I am finally getting around to doing a transmission fluid change on my 300ce.

i'll drain the torque converter first.

I am thinking about trying to suck some fluid out of the pan with my oil extractor device this time.

the last time i did this and took off the pan, i got a tranny bath.

anyone ever tried to suck the two quarts or so out of the pan?

i have a filter and will replentish with mobil 1. i think it's about 6.5 quarts.

gmercoleza · #2 08-30-2006, 10:05 AM

My 300E has a drain plug on the pan. After draining the pan and the TC, I don't recall getting a fluid bath. NOTE: this is post number 666 !

lee polowczuk · #3 08-30-2006, 10:10 AM

a plug in the pan is a good thing...not fortunate to have one in either of the 124's

david s poole · #4 08-30-2006, 10:21 AM

have you applied for entry into the record books?to have one 124 car with no drain plug in trans pan would be news.to have two is like a 6.5 earthquake. please call benz and tell them what you have they might give you a free car.

lee polowczuk · #5 08-30-2006, 10:24 AM

my expedition doesn't have one either.... i get a tranny bath when i do that one as well.

maybe i better double check the benz...it's been a year or so since i did the 300e.... my memory is not what it used to be..

softconsult · #6 08-30-2006, 10:40 AM

You have one.

I have done the extraction thing down the tranny fill tube. I didn't want to
remove the pan drain plug as I recall. Leaves quite a bit in the pan.

Steve
'90 300E had drain plug
'92 300E ditto
'93 300E ditto

gmercoleza · #7 08-30-2006, 11:08 AM

If you replace the plug before removing the pan, any excess will stay in the pan. It's really not very messy at all.

sixto · #8 08-30-2006, 02:35 PM

The plug has a recessed head and takes a 5mm allen key. It's not a bolt like the engine oil drain plug. The torque converter has the same type of drain plug as the transmission pan.

Sixto
93 300SD

lee polowczuk · #9 08-30-2006, 03:12 PM

just picked up 6 qts of mobil 1.... 6.29 qt.. i have half a quart in the shop..as well as a filter and gasket... however if i recall you really don't have to replace the rubber gasket...i'll check the shape of mine.

softconsult · #10 08-30-2006, 03:21 PM

Personally, I would not use synthetic in that transmission. Others will disagree. Why not just use the specified fluid and change every 30,000 miles?

You may not need to replace the gasket, but what about the filter? It definitely should be changed.

Much less risky to simply buy the proper transmission service kit.

By the way, if you remove the drain plugs, then you also need new copper crush washers.

Finally, remember that the torque on the pan bolts is very light. 60 inch pounds.

Steve

Gilly · #11 08-30-2006, 03:46 PM

I wouldn't have a real problem with synthetic, so long as the bottle specifically states that it is compatible with/meets specifications of DexronIII/Mercon.
Only the pan plug uses the copper seal ring, the torque converter plug is an aluminum washer, not copper. Make SURE the old washer does not stick to the converter, if you put another ring over the old stuck one it WILL leak fluid, gare-own-teed as the Cajuns say.
Gilly

lee polowczuk · #12 08-30-2006, 04:17 PM

well i use dino, usually in the engine...because i change it every 3k miles..

but when you change transmission fluid at 30k, synthetic is very cost effective.

i did it in my sons car, and the transmission started shifting better over a 6 month period ---- placebo effect? I don't know...

his car runs like the wind....he also gets synthetic oil... he doesn't drive but maybe 800 miles a month..... his engine used to have a tick at start up...but the synthetic seems to have cured that..

placebo...i don't know..

i run heavier dino in my CE (burns a quart every 1k)... i need to do the valve stem seals... have the parts... just haven't made the leap of faith yet..

Alkraut · #13 08-30-2006, 08:17 PM

For doing a fluid change on a 560SL, what is the best way to access the converter drain plug? Is it visible? What is the technique for bringing the plug to the bottom? I find that there is no room to get a wrench and socket on the crank front nut. Is there another way to rotate the converter? Thanks

sixto · #14 08-30-2006, 08:23 PM

Put a 27mm socket into the crank pulley then attach the ratchet or breaker bar. Or crank the engine in bursts until the plug is at the bottom. Or use a screwdriver to turn the starter ring gear against the grating in the lower bell housing. I should say RISK using a screwdriver...

Sixto
93 300SD

gmercoleza · #15 08-30-2006, 08:48 PM

I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my 300E. No placebo effect here - it definitely shifts better. I agree that both the gasket and filter should be changed. You're in there already - why not?

As for the copper and aluminum washers, they are almost free from the dealer. I have a whole bunch of them strung on a wire and I think it cost me less than $3 for all of them.