How long can a chain and rail last on a 1990 300SE ? Until when would you change it? 189,000 still same stuff, is it SAFE?

Don't know, but I have 267K on my 380SE (V8) and I have no idea when (or if) it was last changed. Have no plans to ever change it..... car is not worth it. I plan on driving mine here in town until it locks up.

If you paid alot for your car and it has an otherwise very strong engine, I would change if in doubt. I do not care on mine because I only paid $1000 for it and it has 267K and I think the engine is worn out anyway, because of the lifter tapping/rod knocking sound- due to worn camshaft on passenger side.

The topic has been covered in earlier threads. The M103 engine does not have a history of chain problems. Only the M116 and M117 (V8s) are prone to bent valves on the left bank.

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

You only paid $1000 for your 560. It may be a rustbucket but it also has only 267k. The bottom end is indestructable on these. Keep up on the oil changes and at LEAST spend the $30 on rails and a weekend to replace them. Don't condemn your engine to death because of $30 in parts and 2-4 hours of labor (4 if you're taking breaks every 15 minutes for a beer or to watch the game like I do on jobs this easy).

If your 560 ISNT rusty, then for the love of god, change that chain too. Take care of the engine and 300k WILL pass by with ease.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Thanks. Actually, its a 1985 380SE (3.8L V8), that is a 100% rust free southern car, no dents and excellent interior (MB-Tex), but has severely dull paint on the top, hood and trunk. My username was from years ago when I joined here. The only thing I had to do to it when I bought it was mew mufflers, radiator cap (seal was leaking) and it still needs rear brakes- which I have, just need to install.

I am not sure if the "bottom ends" are as indestructible on the 3.8L as it is on the 5.0L. ????

I would not mind spending $30, or even $100 for those little "rails", but its the 2-4 hours of labor that would stop me. I have no patients and I would probably never get it back right anyway.

The main reason I have not spent alot of $ on it is because of the lifter tapping/knocking noise @ 1500-1800 rpms, due to worn camshaft (so I am told). Knocking has not gotten any worse, but knowing my luck, I would spend $$$ on chains/rails, etc. and it would konk out. I figure I have already got my monies worth out of it. I really do not need it, with a new car in the works, but I really like it and would like to keep it is a second car.

Too bad that MB did not put some sort of "sensor" on these cars to warn of worn chains/rails/guides/tensioners.

They're about $15 in parts at the most. Good time to do the valve cover gaskets also. Heck, cams are cheap too...

I would really hate to see a car die because of some cheap parts.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]