'92 300SE - Got the car without any remotes. Found one on e-bay that's the proper part # for the car.

Attempting to program the car to accept the new remote and still doesn't work.

New batteries in the remote, and I do see the tell-tale LED when I hold the button down for a few seconds.

AllData doesn't have any valuable testing methods - any other suggestions?

There's another '92 300SE in the parking lot here at work. I plan on contacting the owner to see if they'll let me use their car for a test mule.

They have to be ordered by VIN number from MB, the eBay ones are worthless to you.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Agree with Gilly, the only replacement remotes which can be programmed come from MB dealer, the others are useless.
Geo.

Appreciate the replies. At least I didn't sink a ton of money into the e-bay version.

I'll get with my local MB dealer and pay the piper.

Regards.

They come from MB specific to your car (the IR part as well as the blade), you could actually synchronize it to your car yourself by following the synchronization instructions in the owners manual.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

I did follow the instructions to synchronize it to my car - still no dice.

The key on the remote I got obviously doesn't match the car, but I do have a brand-new master key I got cut from MB. Surely, that's good enough to do the synchronization?

The instructions I have say press the button on the remote, then within 30 seconds, lock or unlock the driver's door using a master key.

However, I've also seen instructions that say to use the key from the remote to lock and unlock the door. I thought the key on the remote was a master key, so there's no way for the car to know which key is really inserted into the lock, right?

The kicker is there's no way to test to see if the sensors or the control unit are bad until you know whether the remote is good or not. Can't know whether the remote is good or not until you have a car with a known working IRCL system to test it against. A real catch-21.

I've never seen a control unit up on e-bay, and I believe the factory units are about $400 - not a price I'm willing to pay just to test to see where the problem is. It seems likely that either the key doesn't work, or the control unit is toast - I'd be doubtful that all 3 IR sensors are kaput at the same time.

Anyone with a '92 140 car with a known good IRCL system can be a tester for me. I'll send them the remote with a postage-paid return carton - all they need to do is synch my remote to their car and see if the sucker works.