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#1
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Coolant Pump - 103 Engine - "how tough is it?"
I have the shop manual, and the listed tasks...
It seems straight forward, but is it? Seems like the manual suggest taking several steps, remove some bolts, and replace - is that all there is? I'm considering if I should do the job, or hire it out? Per the Mercedes shop manual... Coolant at engine and radiator ..............drain, pour in (20-010). Air scoop ...................................remove, install (step 4). Viscous fan clutch ..........................remove, install (20-312). Poly V-belt .................................remove, install (13-342). Belt pulleys of fan clutch and coolant pump .remove, install. Engine compartment covering below ...........remove, install (step 9). If air conditioning fitted ...................unscrew, screw on refrigerant compressor with .............................................pipe group from engine (step 10). Support with tandem pump & connected lines .. unscrew, screw on (step 11). Thermostat (252) with new seal (251) ........remove, install. Belt tensioning bracket .....................slacken, remove. Return line .................................unscrew, screw on (step 12). Coolant hoses (266) and oil line ............detach, attach (step 14). Coolant pump ................................remove, install (step 15). Commercial tools liexagon socket wrench with 6 mm, 3/8" joint 7 mm hexagon socket wrench on flexible shaft for hose clip with screw drive e. g. liazet ![]() Thanks
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Thanks for the help Bill Fisher '86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle 02 E430 in the stable '14 LS460 (Lexus) - - - - - '95 E420 (198K) found a new home '99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper) '95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes '90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover '92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard '93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup |
#2
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Take right at six hours, and the bolts on the water pump are a PITA (no problem if the PS pump wasn't in the way...).
You must also check the fan clutch and the belt tensioner before you start the job, as both really need to be replaced if bad -- I would just buy the tensioner, unless it's been replaced in the last 10,000 miles it's shot more than likely. The factory water pumps last forever on these cars, typically well over 100,000 miles (some go 200,000). Not a bad job, just a bit fiddly. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Took me 5 to 6 hours, and I took my time. Not a bad job, just kills your lower back from all the bending...
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#4
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Not a bad job. I would agree with previous replies...about 5 hours. Most of that is prep and nugging your way through the de-install. I didn't take my fan clutch out nor did I drain my entire cooling system. I bled it a bit and that brough tthe fluid level well below the pump / block entry point.
Be very patient! Take your time. It's just a big puzzle. You will have to get the vbelt, power steering pully and pump out of your way as well as the belt tensioner. I didn't completly remove any of these parts. Make sure you have a flex shaft extension for your sockets or a few socket joints. Some of the angles are pretty tough. Have a several different lengths of socket extensions handy too. Somtimes a 12" is too long and a 3" isn't long enough. Also, your hex or allen wrenches...you may have a need for one that is very stubby. (Rather than the typical that has a 3 to 4" shaft a 90 degree turn then a 1" shaft after the bend, itis very handy to have one that is less tha 1/2" after the bend. I recall a few close quarters.
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Jeff '87 300E '92 400E '06 ML350 ![]() |
#5
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If you have the time, the water pump is pretty doable. If you have all 13mm bolts on your water pump, the Snap-On FLXM13 wobble extension will be a god send for getting at some of the harder-to-reach bolts.
And don't forget to replace the short bypass hose between the head and the pump. Anthony |
#6
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In addition, use some grease to hold the O-ring to the pump body otherwise it will fall out and you'll make a mess all over the place. Then you will be really PO'd.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#7
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I find that if I drive my car up on ramps for this kind of work, it helps alleviate the back problems since the car is higher.
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#8
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Very true, however I on the other hand prefer to have the hood all the way up 90 degrees (that grill gets in the way), something not possible in my garage if I drive up onto ramps...
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#9
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With the parts in hand, I took all your advise:
Placed the car on the ramps and acquired the flex shaft Said a pray - and started ... With several initial components removed, I looked for the bolts. Found three, but could not see the fourth bolt behind the power steering pump, in the front. With no real clue how to remove the power steering pump, and no clue how to access the fourth bolt. I decided to take it to my friendly mechanic - it will be on his doorstep this Monday. Thanks for the help and encouragement, but it was beyond my skills. ![]()
__________________
Thanks for the help Bill Fisher '86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle 02 E430 in the stable '14 LS460 (Lexus) - - - - - '95 E420 (198K) found a new home '99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper) '95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes '90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover '92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard '93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup |
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