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#1
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replace many parts 88 300CE still won't start.
Hi, this 300CE has been with me since 88. 2 months ago it started to run kind of rough. When I accelerated it wouldn't pull right away. It hesitated then started to move. Seemed like there was a clot in the fuel line preventing smooth acceleration. Then 1 month ago it refused to start all of sudden. I changed the fuel filter and the distributer cap and rotor. It started smoothly. But rough acceleration still persisted. So I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Then the car ran smoothly. But two days ago when I pulled it out of garage and switched to Drive gear and gave it a gas. It stalled. Then I tried to restart about 7 times before it would restart. I proceed to drive down the street. At the stop light, it stalled again as I tried to gas the car when the light turned green. I pulled the car to the side. I turned the key at least 25 times before it would restart again. Since then it has been in the garage. When I turned the key, the engine turned but just wouldn't start then I heard "plub plub" at the tail pipe. When I turned the key I was able to roll down windows, turn on radio and lights indicating the key fob was functioning. I suspect the fuel pump is at faul becuase I have changed pretty much all the ignition system and fuel filter. Any expert in forum please advice what could be the cause and what I should do next.
Thank you very much. James Don't have a lot of money but do have time and passion. |
#2
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James, how long has it been since the Oxygen sensor was replaced? It's supposed to be changed every 60,000 miles. Instead of randomly replacing parts take your car to a reputable independent tech or a MB dealer so they can diagnose the problem. That's likely more cost effective and efficient than throwing parts at the problem.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#3
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Uhh...an O2 sensor won't affect starting
![]() When mine started acting like that, it turned out to be the fuel pump relay. Was quite difficult to track down, as most of the time it worked fine.
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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC |
#4
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I would try to jumper the FPR and see if the car starts. I'm not sure which pins to jumer on the 300CE; you might do a search here.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#5
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i had this problem on my CE a couple of weeks ago... it was the OVP.
I had a spare..so it was easy to diagnose...come to think of it, i have a spare fuel pump relay as well.... i do have to concur with others...seems more like a fuel pump relay on yours..
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k ![]() 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#6
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300ce
have you checked for spark? pull out a plug hook wire to it and lay on top of the engine while someone cranks the car and see if removed plug has spark.
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David S Poole European Performance Dallas, TX 4696880422 "Fortune favors the prepared mind" 1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL 1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator) 2000 Mercedes Benz C280 http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg |
#7
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Moneypit, my suggestion to replace the Oxygen sensor was in response to the sluggish acceleration. You're correct that it won't prevent the engine from starting. Sorry for any confusion.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#8
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Quote:
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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC |
#9
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K, after many months and inspections here is what I found out and think has solved the problem. I found out that my fuel filter had some leak mark on the two ends of it. So I cleaned up the mark and retightened the nuts. The stall stopped for about few months. Then one stall about one month ago. I found out that one end for the fuel filter still wasn't tight enough. No stall after the re-retightening and no leak mark so far. Recently I cleaned the throttle body and the spark plugs. That make the idle and acceleration smoother. Only one more thing to do: differential mount. Just need to figure out how the makeshift tool for replacing the mount that ppl are talking about works. Thanks
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#10
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James, it would be best to replace the spark plugs instead of cleaning them.
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Fred Hoelzle |
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