I want to remove the front shocks from my parts car to see if they can be used on my 87 300e. I have never done any suspension work before, so please excuse if these are silly questions. I don't have a spring compressor but plan on lowering the car onto a jack stand to obtain the necessary spring compression. Is the spring compression necessary to keep the spring from coming out, or does it have something to do with removing the shocks? After removing the strut mounts and shocks, would there be any danger if the parts car is lowered without them? Thanks.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

I just did shocks on my W126 a couple weeks ago, so it's still fresh in my mind (setup on the W124 is pretty similar).

The shock is what limits downward travel of the control arm, preventing it from lowering completely which would allow the spring to come out violently. You can lower the car onto jack stands as you described, no spring compressor needed. I actually used a second, smaller floor jack to hold up the control arm, with a jack stand placed under the brake rotor/hub protrusion as an added safety measure. Once you remove the shock absorber, you can definitely lower the car completely and prevent that spring from popping out, however I wouldn't recommend it - what are you going to do when you eventually have to move the car? Once you lower the car all the way, there is no way you will be able to get a shock absorber back in, since it has to go in through the hole underneath. And without a shock absorber installed, you pretty much have a booby trap on your hands. I would install your defective shock absorber after removal in order to minimize the risk.

EDIT: Actually it is the rear shocks that go in through a hole underneath, now that I think about it. You might be OK lowering the front of the vehicle completely down. Although I still wouldn't do it as it would make moving the vehicle difficult. I would install your defective shock and be done with it...

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Thank you very much for the information.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

You do not need a spring compressor to any remove shocks on a W124. The fronts should just fall out if you jack the car up high enough. The spring will stay there if you don't undo the arm bolts.

Should be OK lower that car w/o a shock on it, just no drive it...(capt obvious).

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Jim

1992 500E
2007 CLK63
2003 Audi RS6
2001 Audi allroad

guys, what about removing the rear shocks- can I leave the parts car without rear shocks?

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

yes. no problem.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Hello-

I am having a tough time trying to get the 2 nuts off the top of my shocks. I assume I am supposed to use a slotted screwdriver to hold the slotted top of the shock steady while I loosen each nut, but I can't seem to hold that slot still so it just turns when I try to loosen the nut. Any suggestions? This doesn't seem like a hard job, but....

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

usually with a dbl nut on the spindle, the top one jams/tensions the lower
one from loosening. if it's how I am picturing, you use an open/box end on
the bottom nut, while spinning the top nut off with a socket (or another
open end if there is room). you dont even touch the threaded spindle of
the shock.

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-- raymond~
47º 34'N 122º 18'W

Thanks, Raymond. I will check that out in the light of day and report back.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Thanks, Raymond. You were right and the rest went smoothly. Much better ride now!

Now for the rear shocks, brakes and motor mounts...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

rear shocks seemed to go in much easier than my fronts (99 E320). either way
the whole shock swap could have been done in about 1 hr or so, now that i've
done it once. at the time (and taking my time) it consumed about 3 hrs of
slow, unsure moves.

glad to hear it worked out!

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-- raymond~
47º 34'N 122º 18'W

Yeah, the 2nd time around is always much faster and surer...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg