How to replace an M119 ETA?? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jkazzoun · #16 10-29-2006, 04:41 PM

Thanks. I just loosened the clamps some more and then used a small iron bar to pry-up the MAF. It was easy to pry, even though neither myself (or my brother-in-laws) could pull it or even rock it by hand. It then took a bit to get the connector out. The rubber had hardened and I basically did the same, pry it around bit by bit and got it. Off.

Now for the actual ETA! I hope this all servers a good guide for some one else who attempts this later. If I can, you can too!

mespe · #17 10-29-2006, 09:37 PM

I probably need to do this.

What symptoms do you have to warrant replacing the ETA?

jkazzoun · #18 10-30-2006, 09:16 AM

The car will run fine and then suddenly drop into "limp home" mode. In limp home the car will run at about a max of about 1500 rpm. It will run like that for a bit (one to 3 block lengths) and then, viola, it's fine again. We also get a bit of rough running, but nothing that would have prompted this repacement. Strangely enough, this does not trigger the engine light.

My mechanic also cut open the main ETA cable and you can see that the wires are exposed. We previously had replaced the main harness (my wife and I, not my mechanic and I - it's a pretty easy 2 hour job) which fixed 'surging' issues and 'crazy engine light issues'.

My mechanic (and my review of this forum) suggested the replacement of the ETA. I'm doing a DIY despite my lack of mechanical skill because a new part is about $1300, plus a few hours labor. I purchased the part from 4mercedes for $490. It's taking a few days because I'm waiting for MB to get in the bolts (a recommended, but not required replacement).

Please let me know if you have more questions (or if I did not sufficiently answer this one).

myarmar · #19 10-30-2006, 12:33 PM

Do you have your old ETA? If you want to sell, I'd be interested in getting it from you and try to repair.
Thanks, Mike

jkazzoun · #20 10-30-2006, 01:18 PM

As long as the price is equal to or greater than the $200 core charge/credit I'll get back by sending them my original.

We could do it via Pay Pal. Please send me a private message if you'd like to discuss further.

Thanks,

jk

mespe · #21 11-02-2006, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkazzoun

The car will run fine and then suddenly drop into "limp home" mode. In limp home the car will run at about a max of about 1500 rpm. It will run like that for a bit (one to 3 block lengths) and then, viola, it's fine again. We also get a bit of rough running, but nothing that would have prompted this repacement. Strangely enough, this does not trigger the engine light.

SO I take it that you have ASR as well. I have disconnected the ASR circuitry and when I'm in "limp home" mode, the car still behaves OK. Although I do need to press on the accelrator pedal a bit more (first 1/2 to 1 inch of travel does nothing). My problem is heat sensitive and the car runs longer/better in the colder temps.

jkazzoun · #22 11-02-2006, 02:06 PM

Mespe,

Yes, I do have ASR. My problem *seems* worse when I give it more throttle, more quickly and a bit more in the heat, but that's ancedotal.

I just learned a few minutes ago that the ETA bolts are backordered and only available from Germany, so I think I'll go ahead with the replacment this afternoon.

I'll update the thread with results once I'm done.

jkazzoun · #23 11-02-2006, 09:09 PM

Okay, so it's out. Not sure if that's good or bad. Unfortuately I have two problems:

1. The dealer gave me the wrong vent hose (unless it is a replacement part number and hose routes a bit differently. Let's hope he has the right one in stock.

BTW, the vent hose is very hard to remove. I actually had to cut it near the ETA and then remove the last bit once I was able to angle the ETA up a bit. I could not get to the hose clamp otehrwise.

Anyway...

2. I broke something...There was a very thin, very brittle, fragile plastic tube that went to the back of the engine (center, rear top of block) and forward to somewhere I can't see yet (I'll look again in full light). It does not appear good. Looks like an even tougher thing to replace with the manifold on.

What did I break and how much trouble am I in?

JimF · #24 11-02-2006, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkazzoun

1. the vent hose is very hard to remove. I actually had to cut it near the ETA and then remove the last bit once I was able to angle the ETA up a bit. I could not get to the hose clamp otherwise. ditto! It's basically 'welded' due to the heat!

2. I broke something...There was a very thin, very brittle, fragile plastic tube that went to the back of the engine (center, rear top of block) and forward to somewhere I can't see yet (I'll look again in full light). It does not appear good. Looks like an even tougher thing to replace with the manifold on.

What did I break and how much trouble am I in? Wait till there's light and just piece it with a bit of tubing; done all the time. Don't need to replace it UNLESS it's got some cracks in it.
Probably goes to the tranny . . ??

The rubber sublimes into something from outer space . . . the heat is so high at that point.

jkazzoun · #25 11-02-2006, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimF

The rubber sublimes into something from outer space . . . the heat is so high at that point.

It broke in two places and there is gap of about 4 inches. It is less than 1/4 inch in diameter and appears to have once been clear (or close to it...).

wbain5280 · #26 11-02-2006, 11:36 PM

Here's some info on ETA's

http://www.baxnet.com/merc/tadiags/ta-diags.htm

and some rewiring info:

http://v12uberalles.com/AMM_rewire.htm

http://v12uberalles.com/throttle_actuator_rewire.htm

Gilly · #27 11-03-2006, 05:25 AM

If it's that whitish looking type of hard plastic line, the dealer should have some of that in stock if you want to replace it, or just join it back together with rubber vacuum hose. I might have some here, unsure if I have the part number though.
The vent line IIRC is TWO pieces, they may have sold you the other half, the side that attaches to the valve cover. I'd replace that one too anyways, while you're at it. The hose you really NEED shoud have a part number cast into it, to be sure you're getting the right one.

myarmar · #28 11-03-2006, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkazzoun

1. The dealer gave me the wrong vent hose (unless it is a replacement part number and hose routes a bit differently. Let's hope he has the right one in stock.

You need 3 hoses:
137 p/n 119 094 44 82 mercedesshop p/n B2010-110867
140 p/n 119 094 55 82 mercedesshop p/n B2010-111576
143 p/n 119 094 71 82 mercedesshop p/n B2010-111575
and 2 connectors
116 p/n 102 094 02 12 mercedesshop p/n B2005-71572
All these available from this web site.

Gilly · #29 11-03-2006, 06:25 PM

#144 is all 3 pieces!

Gilly

myarmar · #30 11-03-2006, 06:35 PM

Yes, but my EPC gives "callout is not valid for this BM"
Don't know why, but if you look at 144 - the end that connects to ETA comes from the other side.
Reg. Mike