Well after getting the right cam timing marks, car started on the first try. now the problem is the high idle, 1000 rpm at operating temp. any thing to do with air injection and is rubber is new on top. timing is at the outer edge of the specs with or without vacume and almost has a rolling idle ( bad injector?) new intake manifold gaskets, new chain, all new rails etc. maybe a dirty idle control valve? Thanks for any help in advance.

Does it change when you pull the wire off the ICV?

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

I found that I had to plug the little bypass tube right next to the ICV. It let too much air and even with the ICV fullky closed, the idle was still too fast. The tube is hard plastic and bridges the two hoses connected to the ICV.

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

yes the idle goes up, the strange thing is the warmer the engine gets the higher the rpms go. the wiring is all good from the temp sensor to the ECM unit just when I read it on temp signal out its is all meesed up. I do not know if it has to ground that signal to the fuel pump relay and so on. The cold start does not work at all. If any body knows what the reading should be on pin # 9 on the ECM ? going to the fuel pump relay. acts like it not getting a temp signal and is in warm up all the time. I did check the temp sensor, reads good as far as i can tell. Thanks for any help in advance.
Also checked ground connection for ECM.
PS Is this a bad ground connection in the ECM