Need a bit of advice on running in an Engine on a 190E Cosworth - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

zakh · #1 11-05-2006, 03:44 PM

Hi guys,

I have recently had my entire engine overhauled...so new everything from pistons to valves, timing chain etc etc...so complete top and bottom end...

The comapny that rebuilt it put 15 w 40 oil in it. I have to change this after 500 miles...so my question is should i stick to 15 w 40? Im thinking of using the exact same oil and brand forever. was thinking about Castrol GTX magnatec 15w 40.

Are there any other things that i need to know about running it in?

many thanks!

mbdoc · #2 11-06-2006, 08:52 AM

What part of the country (world) do you live?

IN most cases 15W-40 is too heavy.

OF course avoid full throttle & vary the engine speed as much as possible.

jhodg5ck · #3 11-06-2006, 09:38 AM

I wouldn't use full throttle for the first 2000 miles. Try to avoid just straight highway droning @ a constant RPM. Changes in 500 mile intervals up to 2K IMHO isn't a bad idea either.

As for what weight it would be helpful to know where you live as mentioned above.

Jonathan

zakh · #4 11-06-2006, 09:48 AM

Hi guys, thanks for the useful responses...

Im in London, UK...

I was advised by the engine rebuilders to change the oil after 500 miles then normal servicing...I change it usually every 3,000 miles...
They told me after 1,000 miles i could drive it hard...but i think i like the idea of the 2,000 mile mark instead...what are the advantages of doing this?

but i think your advice is correct...maybe change the oil every 500 miles up to 2000 miles...

Is 15w 40 to heavey then? What brand and viscosity should i be using then?

thanks...

Zak

jhodg5ck · #5 11-06-2006, 09:53 AM

Well, in the summer months I don't see a problem w/ 15-40. Come winter a 10 or even 5 30 might be in order. I'm not such a big fan of the 10/5-40's as they require too many friction modifiers to reach that sort of spread..

I like to take it Easy for those first 2K miles just to be Sure everything polishes itself in perfectly.. This engine is going to be under relatively high stress all it's life..ideally give it the best chance possible of working properly for all of those miles.

After about 6-8K I'd make the switch to synthetic were in my car.

Have Fun!!!

Jonathan

mbdoc · #6 11-06-2006, 10:06 AM

Since the engine is NEW again I would switch to a 0W-40 OR to a 5W-40 synthetic at or before 500mi.

A few full throttle runs after 100-200 will help with break-in. NOT with any real load though. After the first oil change you should be able to start loading the engine..but hold off heavy loading for another 500mi.

zakh · #7 11-06-2006, 10:11 AM

Thats superb advice guys...
So you would think running mobil 1 5w 40 all year round is an ok thing to do?

As for full synthetic...again is this the right thing to do? I have heard people say that semi synth is the way to go for these engines?

Again im just trying to granish some valued opinions

So can you one of you guys or both, break down for me what oil to use, when to make the oil changes etc etc...Id really appreciate it

jhodg5ck · #8 11-06-2006, 10:17 AM

In chatting w/ engine builders (vary applications) they have always warned me against introducing synthetic too early as synthetic oil is Too slippery and prevents the proper/ideal micro polishing/finishing from taking place.

Perhaps this has been reminded w/ some of the new formulations but I have yet to hear anything.

Jonathan

mbdoc · #9 11-06-2006, 11:45 AM

To start with, every engine (at least 25) that I have built in the last 10 years started with synthetic oil & never had any problem with break-in. Or had any oil related consumption problems.

EVERY MB that leaves the factory & has so since 2001 has synthetic oil in the engine...break-in isn't a problem.

I would think that a std 15W-40 would cause more problems(wear) as it doesn't have good lubrication properties in cool to cold weather.

Ferdman · #10 11-06-2006, 12:05 PM

zakh, check the Oil Viscosity vs. Ambient Temperature Chart in your Owner's Manual to help you decide what multi-viscosity oil to use. I would recommend using Mobil 1 (a synthetic oil) which is factory-fill for all new MB automobiles. Mobil 1 15W50 pours at -49 degrees F ... that should be fine for your Cosworth engine. Per the label Mobil recommends that weight for turbocharged and supercharged engines.

jhodg5ck · #11 11-06-2006, 05:44 PM

As it was explained to me the new engines are built/designed w/ synthetic in mind thus synthetic is not a problem, but with these older engines where conventional oil was used they believed it best to start out in the same manner.

Also, there is the problem of all the new formulations of gas engine oil the level of zinc has been drastically reduced in an effort to preserve the emissions equipment (namely the cat). GM has gone as far as to produce a zinc additive for all of their older engines. I believe the diesel oils still have the previous generation level of zinc (one more reason I like them).

Were I in your shoes I'd look into getting some of this additive for your first few oil changes.

Jonathan

zakh · #12 11-09-2006, 12:40 PM

Hi guys,

Thanks again for all the very useful Info

I think that i am going to use 10w 40 Mobil oil for every oil change...

I think fully synth are not that great for the older engines...

On another note...When im stuck in traffic the coolant temp, in other words the gauge in the Instrument cluster rises to over 100C...Also the engine oil temp gauge just above the ashtray rises to about 100C too...As soon as i get moving it goes down...Is this normal?

I know the electrmagnetic clutch fan is working, and the thermostat is new...

Any Input gratefully received

mbdoc · #13 11-09-2006, 12:47 PM

Normal temp operation.

waybomb · #14 11-09-2006, 07:41 PM

On my 16v, even in very warm weather, it stays at 80c.

However, it started getting close to and over 100c last year. Found the fan clutch magnet had burned out. When the engine got to 75 or 80c, the clutch magnet was energized, and blew the fuse, which knocked out the gage cluster.

Does you fan spin under power above 80C, or is it just spinning slowly?

Is the wire connected to the fan clutch magnet?

Is power getting to the plug? If not, you probably have a bad clutch relay, bad temperature sensor, or a bad fuse (from my experience, if the fuse goes, so do the gages). If you do have power, let the party begin. It is a very fun job to change that magnet out! Not a whole bunch of room up there. I suppose it would have been easier if I had pulled the radiator.

jhodg5ck · #15 11-09-2006, 09:11 PM

That's hotter then I like to see my alloy engines running (I'm comfortable w/ 80-83C). One thing we have done w/ the electromagnetic fans is work in a switch to the dash so You can control when it comes on and off.. Coming up to traffic? Kick the fan on before hand to prevent the temps rising. Going to run someone? Turn it off to gain back your HP or two.

Jonathan