You need to get down to basics and start from there. With ANY engine, the basics are fuel and spark. Check fuel pressure. This requires a rather elaborate fuel pressure gauge, but you MUST know if you have fuel pressure or not.

Secondly is there a spark? Pull a plug wire and see if it will jump a spark to ground. Do this very briefly with a helper to turn the engine over while you observe. The spark should be BLUE. If it is orange, it is a weak spark.

At this point, if the problem is spark start by pulling the distributor cap and while it's off, make sure the rotor turns. If anything is burnt or looks bad replace it. If all that looks good test the coil.

If there is no fuel pressure start by looking at the fuse on the fuel pressure relay. Check voltage at pump. If there is voltage on the pump and still no pressure, the pump is at fault.

Good luck.

You can't "time" the fuel on this engine. You asked about the fuel distributor already (SEVEN threads all started for the same problem??) and you need to go back and read those links I posted for you so you can understand what the fuel distributor does. It is NOT a sequential system, it is a constant system (CIS-E), it injects fuel ALL the time at ALL the injectors, not to each cylinder in a particular order. Check for spark. Don't just replace the plugs, but SEE if there is spark at any one of the plugs, pull it out, hook the plug wire too it, and have someone crank the engine and see if there is a spark or not. Do you think the fuel is bad or old, or what is the reason behind flushing out the fuel??
Gilly

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Was just reading through those SEVEN threads (because I am a helpful but abrasive guy) and noted you can't even get the car to try starting with starting fluid, in which case I would guess you have no spark. Someone else already mentioned this, but I'd check the cap and rotor and also make sure the bracket that the rotor mounts too isn't broken. I've seen this before on 103 engines. This engine IS entirely capable of running without the control unit even INSTALLED, so stop chasing the codes down. It might run like crap, but it WILL run even without a control unit, this is not being caused by a "trouble code". If you has spark, and the timing was remotely close, you will have an engine at least "trying" to start.
Gilly

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after messing with the wires, swaping coils, changing plugs, cleaning fuel parts and even disabling the fuel system we got it to start with starting fluid, put all back together, fuel system working, finally got it started after flooring it for a bit, no starting fluid.
Now after it ran for like 10 secs the dipstick poped up and after another 5 secs oil flowed out of the valve cover vent? what the hell?

i wasnt fully aware of all the workings of this forum, a thread or 2 might have been an accident by trying to add to one, another thing is i thought that wording different title could get a different answer? i apologize for the SEVEN threads gilly< no e

Wow.. thats cool..
Too much oil? or clogged returns. THe oil filter may have failed.
This car been sitting a long time eh?

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1986 300e (runs like a top.. interior needs parts)
2006 GTO
2003 Mini S

so change oil and filter and how do i clean the returns