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#1
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How long do I have?
Thanksgiving greetings to all,
I have an '86 300E. The water pump (original, with 155,000 miles) is getting noisy. I could hear a 'rattley bearing noise' from the front of the engine. Using a mechanic's stethoscope, I checked all the bearings which run off of the serpentine belt. All were quiet except for the water pump. So far the pump hasn't started leaking but it seems to be getting louder slowly. ![]() My question is how likely is the pump going to last until the Spring and warmer weather? I have studied the procedure for replacing the pump and I think I could do it. The problem is I'd have to work in the driveway and it is getting a bit cold and wet now that winter has arrived here in Oregon. I know it is still much milder than back East but still nor very nice to work in at my age. ![]() The Alldata site lists 5.5 hour labor for this job which would be pretty expensive. ![]() ![]() Your opinions and experience are appreciated. Coming Attractions: I just finished improving my dash lighting with LEDs and I can actually read every thing in the dash at night. I'll post with photos as soon as I figure how to do that. ![]()
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1986 300E ![]() 1993 Volvo 940 Wagon ![]() 1984 Volvo 240 (daughter's) ![]() 1976 Dodge 1/2T pickup, gas hog ![]() |
#2
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Try shaking the pulley on the front of the waterpump up and down (check for bearing looseness). Main thing to be concerned with is what you'll do if the pump "lets go" while driving? Are you a doctor? Wife pregnant? Mob chase you very often? Like outrunning cops? If you can answer "yes" to any of these, AND this is your everyday "ride", you might want to put this on the front burner. If "NO", and you're retired, plus have a couple other cars to drive, and have a AAA membership, sure let it go. Always have a cellphone handy. And a peashooter under the seat in case Alfonse and Tony are chasing you again.
Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Many moons ago, I had a Volvo with a noisy water pump. Being short of cash at the time, I postpone the repair to whenever it got worst or spring arrived.
Not a drop of coolant, the noise did not get any louder for months months. This was until I got that noise coming from up front and the alternator light came on. When I opened the hood, I discovered a big hole in the radiator, a cracked timing chain cover, a few dented pulleys, a missing fan belt and some other collateral damages a failed water pump bearing did. The water pump casing simply disintegrated, distributing broken part all over. Your pump can probably last 'till spring, or probably not. Good luck |
#4
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You have exactly as many days as it is to the absolutly coldest day of winter.
John Roncallo |
#5
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Quote:
__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
#6
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I've seen the "failure mode" of water pumps increase expotentially; that is, 100000 miles till noise; 1000 miles till a little seepage; 100 miles to a spectacular gaping leak.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#7
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No cop chases.... yet
Quote:
I tried moving the water pump pulley but can't feel any movement. There is a very, very small amount of lateral movement when the engine is running.
__________________
1986 300E ![]() 1993 Volvo 940 Wagon ![]() 1984 Volvo 240 (daughter's) ![]() 1976 Dodge 1/2T pickup, gas hog ![]() |
#8
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tensioner shock source of noise???
Quote:
Thanks for the idea. I took my stethoscope back out and did some more listening. Here is what I heard: 1. Water pump - bearing noise is a bit louder than on the PS pump or alternator. There is a metallic click in the sound. 2. Tensioner shock - At the top of the tensioner shock the noise I've been hearing is much louder than at the water pump bearing. At the bottom of the shock the noise gets louder yet and I can feel a strong vibration there. I can't see any runout of the tensioner idler pulle but it's hard to see much down there. QUESTIONS ![]()
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1986 300E ![]() 1993 Volvo 940 Wagon ![]() 1984 Volvo 240 (daughter's) ![]() 1976 Dodge 1/2T pickup, gas hog ![]() |
#9
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Quote:
![]() Maybe at 155,000 miles and 20 years, it would be wise to just replace the WP, tensioner, and shock all together. Lots of the labor steps seem to be common with all the. It will really add up though. ![]()
__________________
1986 300E ![]() 1993 Volvo 940 Wagon ![]() 1984 Volvo 240 (daughter's) ![]() 1976 Dodge 1/2T pickup, gas hog ![]() |
#10
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Quote:
Replace it. I've had a water pump fail on an old Nissan 240 pickup, and I was VERY lucky to have been able to simply replace it. The shaft snapped, the fan whacked the radiator. Had the fan had metal blades, the radiator probably would have gone the way of the average US student's math comprehension ![]()
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2024 CR-V Hybrid Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2018 Durango R/T, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#11
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You can run the engine with the belt shock disconnected to help diagnosis. Make sure the ACC is fully off so the compressor doesn't engage.
Sixto 93 300SD |
#12
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Since it does seem to be the tensioner shock, then I'd feel a bit better about advising you, in reference to your original question, in waiting until "shade tree" season opens up again.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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