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#1
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German Keyless Entry
Hi, I was looking through the archies about keyless entries. So far I have read about some of you installing aftermarket keyless entries and using actuators for the vacuum lock. I also looked at Benzmac's DIY. However, if I were to buy a german keyless entry kit made for the w124 would I need an actuator? I do not have much knowledge in this. Benzmac's installation seems easy but it does not talk about an actuator. Also his car is a 94.. while I have a 89 260e. Is there any differences? I have included a picture of the german keyless entry kit... Would I need to buy anything else or is everything I need included. To my knowledge this kit is made for the w124 and is not one of the universal kits from crutchfield or other places.
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#2
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It says it will operate your existing
electric or pneumatic central locking system. None of his 8000+ customers complained tht it didn't work, so I assume it has all you need for that. The metal key blank is useless, though.
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#3
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Metal key may not be useless...
I bought what looks like exactly the same kit from some guy in Germany who had sold a ton of these. Installed in about 30 mins in my wife's 1990 300SL. The original remote key didn't come with the car, and I didn't feel like paying the $200 each the dealer wanted!
I just hooked it up to the locking pump in the trunk (was about 3-4 wires if I remember correctly) and it worked. BUT then I got smart and went to the dealership to talk to them about keys. They sell three keys for the 1990 car we have: A. Remote including metal key 'blade' as they call it B. Standard key (looks like the 80's MB keys) C. Key blade replacement only I bought item C and it fit just fine into this remote. When you flip out the key blade, you'll see a little screw or pin that needs to be removed. Then put in your newly purchased blade from the dealer and you're good. The groove in the key blade from MB didn't match the location of the remote pinhole, so I couldn't put the screw back in. The thing is wedged in so tight, it won't move (I was planning to superglue it, but it's *really* stuck in there). I think the key blade cost $35 Canadian at the dealership and was ordered to match the car. Most people think this remote/key was original to the car and it certainly looks like it! Hope this helps... Neal
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
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#4
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Would this work on an '86 190e?
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'86 190E 2.3-16V 160K '89 190D 209K For Sale '95 SL320 86K Sold '95 LandRover Disco 130K Sold |
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#5
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Probably, but I can't say for sure.
My '86 300SDL seems like the pump is different from the 300SL, BUT it doesn't look all that different. I would guess the wire colors are different but the hookup is generally the same. The guy I bought from had a list of cars it would fit/wouldn't fit (and it wasn't a generic list like "all 1960-1999 Mercedes" or anything like that). I will see if I can dig up his auction or webpage and post it here. I thought he was selling a universal kit, but from the instructions that came with it, it looks like he has a few different models. For example, my kit only fits R129 SL's and a few other models. W126 and W201 weren't in the instructions at all, even though he sold kits that fit those models. Neal
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
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#6
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10 years from now???
Hmmm
What happens 10 years from now when these things quit working? Keyless is a cute feature but not worth slicing and dicing a wiring harness over.. Some owner is going to be stuck diagnosing an issue with an aftermarket keyless unit thats manafacturer has long gone out of business...
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#7
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I actually only cut one wire going to the locking pump. If you pull off the cover on the pump, you can clearly see the wire that has been cut, with each end now being connected to the keyless module. The other wires are for power and ground.
If I had to diagnose anything in an older car and came across a box like this, the first thing I'd logically do is disconnect power and ground. If it didn't start working (ie. those cut wires need to be reconnected), it's pretty easy to see a cut green wire and the solution would be to reconnect the ends. I don't think it's any more complex than replacing a non-factory stereo with another one. Wiring harnesses are different, but as soon as you pull the radio it's pretty easy to figure out. Neal
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
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#8
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I agree bhatt...and if the keyless part stops working, the 'old-fashioned' key in the lock still works.
I bought a similar system and installed it without problem. You might also check out 2phast's website, he installed a similar system on his 500e. www.2phast.com/500e This should work with any of the 201/124 cars (and others) with vacuum operated locks.
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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE |
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#9
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The keyless entry system I installed was a universial kit, you would never want to use the key blank included with these kits, they are brass. Its best to modify your existing key to fit the flip key remote. The alram, from Ebay cost me around $40.
If it were to fail, no problem, with the relay configuration I used, everything on the car functions normally, all doors, trunk and OE alarm. This would be the best way to install it IMO. If you have a OE alarm, by following my instructions, you can get that to arm/disarm using your new keyless entry. |
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