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  #1  
Old 03-09-2007, 03:35 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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New thermostat or not?

Got a new thermostat on hand. Will be doing a coolant change soon. Wonder if I ought to change the thermostat now or just hang onto it and use it when the time arrives. Have no idea how old the one in the car is - it could even be original. The car stays at a rock solid 82°. This is the SL I"m talking about.

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'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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  #2  
Old 03-09-2007, 03:58 PM
david s poole
 
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change it for peace of mind.
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2007, 04:54 PM
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My suggestion:
Don't try to fix what's not broken.
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2007, 05:02 PM
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New thermostat or not?

Not.
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2007, 05:24 PM
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Do not change it.
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2007, 07:48 PM
Ali Al-Chalabi's Avatar
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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No harm in changing it while the coolant is out. I usually change mine during coolant changes.
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2007, 08:09 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Change it if the new one is OEM. At $5.00 a pop it's not like your throwing too much money around... and your fresh (orange) coolant and system will have an even fresher start. Don't forget to drain the block
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2007, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A264172 View Post
Change it if the new one is OEM. At $5.00 a pop it's not like your throwing too much money around...
OK, I'll bite. Where do you get OEM themostats for $5.00?
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  #9  
Old 03-09-2007, 08:42 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewtoo View Post
OK, I'll bite. Where do you get OEM themostats for $5.00?
Ooops. I guess my memory is fading faster than I thought. Ok $28.00 is a little money to chuck. I guess that I wouldn't throw the 28 at it unless it was running out of spec, which it appears not to be. Thanks for setting me straight... I put one in the 300E this summer as part of a large part order including rad hoses and radiator and could have sworn it was cheap... guess I have to start eating more fish.

But still remember to drain the block.
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2007, 09:26 PM
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Location: Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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$21.37 for Mercedes OE thermostat. I plan to drain the block. There are supposedly two drains, one on each side. Hope they are reasonably accessible.

Thanks for the replies. It's almost a tie. I'm leaning to changing the thermostat, since I've already got it in hand.
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Len
'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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  #11  
Old 03-10-2007, 10:56 AM
Hirnbeiss's Avatar
ich fahre, also bin ich
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,671
I just replaced mine recently at around 98K miles on the M113 engine. It makes teh engine run a few degrees warmer in the cold weather, but I can't say whether it's significant. Before it was always spot on the 80C hash mark, and now it steadies out with the needle covering the top loop of the "8". That should be 87 degrees, but I would think 87 is a bit higher on the gage, given that the next hash mark should be 100.

The only reason I bothered to change it was that I was seeing a lot of creamy oil goop under the oil filler cap, so I figured warmer oil may help to burn off any condensation. But I can't say yet if these few degrees make a noticeable difference.

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