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  #1  
Old 04-17-2007, 03:27 PM
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560sel cured fuel distributor

well guys i got the fuel distributor open on all 8 ports. a month ago i said 2 ports were blocked well i tried something and i will let the pro's on this site tell you if it was the right thing to do. what i did was take a bottle sea foam injector cleaner on rev the car up and pour slowly the cleaner in the brake booster line, smoked like a mother but got a lot more power and like i said opened up yhe other ports. gotr the idea from an old mechanic.

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Old 04-17-2007, 03:32 PM
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Can you provide a couple more details on that?
Poured the cleaner in the brake booster line?
Sounds like a good solution to an expensive problem......is the car running right now?
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:21 PM
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ok here is what i did.first unscrewed the brake booster line at the driver side. then started the car had my wife rev up the engine and begin to pour, the vaccum will pull in the cleaner no need for a funnel. just put in a steady stream of cleaner you are going into the mainfold don't want to choke it off. while doing this you will get a BUNCH OF WHITE SMOKE out of the tail pipe. once i was finished i turned the car off reattached the brake booster then took it for a ride to get the rest of the smoke out. at first sluggish but began to do better very quick.an as i said i had 2 clogged fuel distributor ports an now they are all opened.
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2007, 05:40 PM
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How could that have unclogged the fuel distributor? The sea foam would have been injested into the intake manifold going straight to the combustion chambers and not have passed through the fuel distributor.

Can you explain why or how it unclogged the fuel distributor?

Did you test for fuel flow on the clogged ports after doing this?
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78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2007, 10:53 PM
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fuel Distributor

Yes All you did was clean the intake system or maybe dislodged a piece of carbon on a intake valve but you did nothing to the fuel side of the system sorry!.
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2007, 04:00 AM
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Exclamation

Do you mean dry salt by the sea foam?

Do you recommend this method on my 560SEL 1989?
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380SE 1984 <------- Totaled by flipping accident
300SE 1988 <------- Sold
Volvo S70 2000 <---- 4 family
Opel Omega 2002 <-- 4 family
560SEC 1989 <------ Sold
560SEL 1990 <------ Sold
560SEL 1991 <------ 4 my mother
560SEL 1989 <------ Sold
600SEL 1992 <------ Current


http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZkhazenzcc

Last edited by zcc; 04-18-2007 at 04:38 AM.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2007, 07:39 AM
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Knowing how the intake manifold is built for the these engines, I would not recommend putting seafoam into the brake booster line. The problem with doing that is that the seafoam will only get to a few of the back cylinders. Also a lot of the seafoam ends up in the lower chambers of the manifold and never gets into the cylinders. The best place is to put it into the auxillary air lines.

To do it properly will require seafoam injection at 4 different locations. I have popped off the plastic plugs at the end of the lines and inserted the seafoam there. Its downhill all the way. I made a rig of tubing and a funnel and a crude pinch valve to feed the fluid into the air lines. You have to be resourceful to get the seafoam in properly. Only then are you guaranteed that it reaches the all cylinders.

Seafoam is a GM product and it works well on engines that have a "running downhill" manifold design such as the Chevy 350 V8. The Benz engines are "running uphill" and fluids of this type will tend to hang out in the bottom as a pool of liquid. I recently overhauled an intake manifold from a 560 because of vacuum leaks and there was about a pint of thick gooey fluid in the lower manifold. I suspect that the PO had put something into the intake to clean the engine such as seafoam or who knows what else.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

Last edited by dpetryk; 04-18-2007 at 08:01 AM.
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2007, 08:35 AM
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ok dpetryk's Avatar dpetryk,
Do u recommend putting a quarter ATF oil in the engine prior engine iol change of about 500 miles to get it clean internally?
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Master Computer Engineer, A+, Network+, MCP/MCSA/MCSE 4/2k/2k3 - Messaging, MCTS, MCITP, MCT, Brainbench, ICDL and starting Ph.D

380SE 1984 <------- Totaled by flipping accident
300SE 1988 <------- Sold
Volvo S70 2000 <---- 4 family
Opel Omega 2002 <-- 4 family
560SEC 1989 <------ Sold
560SEL 1990 <------ Sold
560SEL 1991 <------ 4 my mother
560SEL 1989 <------ Sold
600SEL 1992 <------ Current


http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZkhazenzcc
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:24 AM
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I have heard about adding ATF as a cleaning agent. I tried it a few times. Not really sure if it did anything. I use a product from GUNK called motor flush. Put it in prior to the oil change and let it idle for 10 minutes or so. Oil comes out black as night. However I only have one engine in my fleet that needs deep internal cleaning. All the others are as clean as a sterile needle. There is a product called MotorRX or something like that. It worked miracles on a Nissan engine that was really badly gunked up. There is a thread somewhere in this forum about it. It took a while to work but it did an amazing job.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:59 AM
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all i can say is that 2 ports were clogged and now they aren't as i said above i will let the experts tell people what happened and if this is a good idea. all i said is that it unclogged my problem either by luck or whatever they are open
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2007, 05:33 AM
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Hi,
On the Seafoam's website they recommend using intake manifold, pcv valve or break booster line. Well since Dpetyk said MB's intake manifold has the "running up hill" design I'll try Dpetyk's method. I recently cleaned my throttle body and I could see some of the cleaning fluid accumulated at the bottom of intake manifold when I opened the throttle plate wide opened (the 2nd plate). I am not worry about it because it will evaporate very quickly as it is very well ventilated as long as no gooy stuff is used. bottom line: recommended instruction is not as effective as Dpetyk's method due the MB's intake manifold design.

Now Dpetyk or someone could you please tell me where I can find the auxillary air lines? Thanks

Rick
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2007, 08:45 AM
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They are the rubber hoses that are laying on and parallel to the valve covers. They run on top of the fuel injectors. There is a cross over hose that runs under the fuel distributor and connects both sides together. They end up at the cold start injector and idle control valve. There is a plastic plug in both ends of these air lines. Total count = 4. Remove the plug and insert the seafoam injection tube there. These hoses get hard from heat and age so replacing them is not a bad idea.

Its possible to remove the hose connection at the cold start injector and insert the seafoam there. However, I am sure you would not get equal distribution of the seafoam to all the cylinders if you do it there.

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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