1994 E420 Throttle Valve Actuator - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimF · #31 05-07-2007, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Jim,
I thought there was a separate cable for the ETA - If he's had the MAF replaced, the condition of the MAF wiring would be fine.

Not sure what you're saying?? There's NO separate cable for the MAF. . it's part of the WIRING HARNESS. . . . . so if it's been replaced and checked as he just did (at one of the worst spots to check), then the portion going to the ETA is ALSO good.

The '94 MAF has no internal wiring that goes 'bad'! In fact, these MAFS, unlike the current breed of 'hot-film' ones almost NEVER go bad. You can take it apart via some screws on the outside portion. . . .but there's no need to. The MAF is made with a 'wire' (unlike the 'hot-film' ones) and they are almost indestructible as evidenced by my de-contamination in MENU#4a.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

I think that just to be on the safe side, he should open the ETA cable and make sure - it won't cost him any money, and he then knows for sure, instead of having that nagging doubt in the back of his mind.

Wouldn't disagree but have seen many '94 ETAs that are original and the wires are now toast. But it wouldn't hurt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

He needs to open up the lid and get a part number off that module too, and start shopping/hunting for one - brand new is cost prohibitive, unless one has cash to burn.

If you mean the ETA, it can be rebuilt at a number of places; see MENU#24 for a list w/ feedback on their work.

However, that's not the PRESSING problem; he needs to get it to run and that will require a EA module FIRST! Maybe he can get a 'loaner' but w/o this module the car won't run. . . ETA or not (second time I've said this!).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

PPS: I just re-read the posts and it appears that the MAF is most likely the same age as the rest of the car. But, that doesn't necessarily exclude the ETA from having bad wiring - since the MAF was most likely bought from a company that didn't build their products with defective wiring the way Benz did.

Now I see where you got this MAF "wiring" thing. There's no wiring to be concerned with in the MAF . . . other than the 'hot-wire' itself!

Larry Delor · #32 05-07-2007, 10:59 PM

Aaah! I think I see where the confusion started - or at least where it is at.

Anyway, yes, the MAF is part of the wiring harness. I was thinking of the cable that goes to the ETA, and calling it a harness also (since it's full of wires).

His harness (the one that inc. the MAF) may be good, but the harness/cable that goes to the ETA could be garbage.
As far as opening the lid, I meant the lid to the computer box, and get the part number off of the EA module.

So we're pretty much on the same page

I would like to note though, that in my case the EA was fine, and the ETA was history - that's why I would like to see the ETA harness/cable opened to see what the wires look like......If they are toast, then I'd get a new ETA first - especially since it is the cheaper of the two items (unless you can find a used EA cheap)

4wheeling · #33 05-07-2007, 11:31 PM

JimF,

In post #29 you say get it running do you mean idling? After getting the car from the dealer the car seems to be able to start but not hold idle and stalls. There is no CE at this time. The only way to keep it running is by keeping the rpms above 1000. I will check the ETA wire as well and report back.

JimF · #34 05-07-2007, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Would like to note though, that in my case the EA was fine, and the ETA was history - that's why I would like to see the ETA harness/cable opened to see what the wires look like......If they are toast, then I'd get a new ETA first - especially since it is the cheaper of the two items (unless you can find a used EA cheap)

Certainly wouldn't hurt to cut open the ETA's cable to check. . . however, his EA is dead b/c it won't idle. Granted that the EA is not a normal failure when the ETA goes bad, but we are now dealing with his problem!

If the car won't stay running, the EA is the most likely the culprit, IMO. That needs to be fixed first . . .or together (with the ETA) but JUST fixing the ETA will NOT fix his problem.

JimF · #35 05-07-2007, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4wheeling

JimF,

In post #29 you say get it running do you mean idling? After getting the car from the dealer the car seems to be able to start but not hold idle and stalls. There is no CE at this time. The only way to keep it running is by keeping the rpms above 1000. I will check the ETA wire as well and report back.

Yes, I think so. . . without the car being able to 'run' (idle, etc), you can NEVER diagnose other problems.

Of course, I say that as a person concerned with your wallet. You could replace the EA ***AND*** the ETA and you probably be good to go. But you (and the all of us) are trying to get you fixed w/o opening up Fort Knox.

Try a junk yard for replacements for both units. . .maybe you'll get lucky???

deanyel · #36 05-08-2007, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimF

His EA is dead . . so somehow that needs to get fixed first . . .or together (with the ETA) but JUST fixing the ETA will NOT fix the EA problem.

I may have missed something but what's the evidence that the EA is dead? Just the dealer diagnosis? This dealer thinks everything is bad.

Larry Delor · #37 05-08-2007, 07:03 AM

Jim,

Your statement about the ETA being a part of a replaced wiring harness has me a little puzzled.
I found a picture of the identical ETA that I have in my '94 E420. As you can see, it has its own cable/harness - which plugs into a connector by the module box - IF from that point on it goes into the main wiring harness, that is fine by me...I won't argue there

But, the fact remains that the ETA has its own section of cable, and therefore is subject to inspection.

JimF · #38 05-08-2007, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Jim,

Your statement about the ETA being a part of a replaced wiring harness has me a little puzzled.
I found a picture of the identical ETA that I have in my '94 E420. As you can see, it has its own cable/harness - which plugs into a connector by the module box - IF from that point on it goes into the main wiring harness, that is fine by me...I won't argue there

But, the fact remains that the ETA has its own section of cable, and therefore is subject to inspection.

Post#34 was revised . . . "thought" you were referring to the W/H portion. . .

Wouldn't hurt to cut the ETA's cable and check the wires . . betch'a a dime, the wires are toast!!

JimF · #39 05-08-2007, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deanyel

I may have missed something but what's the evidence that the EA is dead? Just the dealer diagnosis? This dealer thinks everything is bad.

Car won't stay running . . . points to the EA . .

4wheeling · #40 05-08-2007, 12:30 PM

Larry Delor,

The EA you have is for one with ASR but what is the part number?

Is it 124-545-3632 like mine? I found one at a junk yard with my part number but I want to make sure it is for w/o ASR. He is asking $450 with 6 month warranty. Thank you.

JimF · #41 05-08-2007, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4wheeling

Larry Delor,

The EA you have is for one with ASR but what is the part number?

Is it 124-545-3632 like mine? I found one at a junk yard with my part number but I want to make sure it is for w/o ASR. He is asking $450 with 6 month warranty. Thank you.

So it has the exact same P/N??? Why would you hesitate?? Do you think that a wrong version was put into the car??

Larry Delor · #42 05-08-2007, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4wheeling

Larry Delor,

The EA you have is for one with ASR but what is the part number?

Is it 124-545-3632 like mine? I found one at a junk yard with my part number but I want to make sure it is for w/o ASR. He is asking $450 with 6 month warranty. Thank you.

The EA that I have has part number 124 545 4243 Close, but no cigar.

Sorry (thanks for asking anyway!)

(I have it on ebay with an opening bid of $139 and a buy it now price of $179 - You'd think somebody would jump on that.)

4wheeling · #43 05-08-2007, 04:02 PM

JimF,

When I was asking for the part I asked if this came from a no ASR car and he did not know so I was trying to make sure. Does it make a difference?

Also I sliced the ETA cable right next to the connector and like you thought they are all cracked. I attached a picture that I took with my phone so it is not that clear. There are many fine cracks that are not visible in the picture.

So this means that the ETA needs to be changed but how can I be sure that the EA is dead? I mean if the EA is good but the ETA is dead wouldn't the simptoms I have be the same?

Larry Delor · #44 05-08-2007, 04:05 PM

Since your ETA is most likely dead, and you're going to have to replace it, do that first. If it still doesn't run, you can get a EA module. If that still doesn't work, throw some holy water on it....if it catches fire, you know what the trouble is.

PS: When I opened up the side of my old ETA, the wires inside, did not have one speck of insulation left on it!

4wheeling · #45 05-08-2007, 04:06 PM

lol.