How to Remove the Fuse Box Cover on a 1986 190E 2.3-16 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimSmith · #1 05-02-2007, 03:51 PM

Well,

This is another long story about a revival of a 1986 190E 2.3-16, US model with a 5 speed, and it is nearing being ready to register an put back on the road. It still has a few quirks to address though.

First is the blinkers don't work, yet the 4 way flashers work fine. So, I figured it must be the relay and went to remove it to check it out. Well, the location of the fuse box which also houses this relay all the way in the back, requires as I see it, that the fuse box cover come off. I have tried for an hour or more to coax the cover off, but cannot figure out how to remove it without getting really physical. It is 21 years or more old now, so I don't want to break it. Anyone ever take this thing off? I can tell there is rodent debris back there too, so I would really like to get the cover off and vacuum the crud out (mostly old acorns and some fuzzy stuff from a nest, it appears).

This car has been sitting after the head gasket was blown due to overheating, for quite some time now. My sons and I took the head off, had it refurbished by a local shop that does MB work and did the machining work on our Euro 2.3-16, and replaced it. Got the head back on and was eager to turn the engine over for some reason, and forgot to put the chain tensioner back in. Well that resulted in the chain slipping, bent valves and and doing the whole job again. Now it all back and running like a top. Starts and is really strong from about 2800 rpm to about 5800 rpm.

Still have an issue with the brakes, which feel numb and slightly less than fully effective. So, they will be coming apart. The ABS light is also on all the time, so I think there is an issue with the calipers/sensors. I checked the OVP relay which was not working right as the cold start valve was not working. I tightened the fuse connection and put it back, and all was fine, except the ABS light is still on all the time.

Any suggestions about the fuse box cover, or checking the ABS sensors would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim

jasonkec01 · #2 05-02-2007, 04:16 PM

first you have to take out the large sqaurish black fuse box cover directly in front of the main fusebox.however, mine is not a 2.3-16,yours may differ,nonetheless the process to remove the cover is the same.if after youve been able to pop the little silvery arm doo dad that holds down the cover,,,lift the whole thing upward as much as you can,then lean the front portion of the cover downward,raising the rear portion {closest to the fire wall } and just gently jiggle it out.so long as theres no other obvious reason for it to not move forward by using the method prescrbed,its going to amaze you the ease with which it comes out.hope this helps.

JimSmith · #3 05-02-2007, 06:02 PM

I tried your method, but I got no where. I even tugged pretty hard, expecting it to break, and nada.

My fuse box cover is clear plastic, and has a metal closure clip at the front and what looks like a metal hinge that engages a protruding plastic nib on the cover a few inches from the back. If I reach my hand over the cover and down the back edge, I can feel a slot or opening, but I can't pull upward as my hand is squashed between the cover and the car body at the rear.

I think I must be missing something because it is seeming a bit impossible to get to the big black relay back there. If I had to I could probably pull the two silver ones in front of the big black one out, but that would not guarantee me I would not be stumped anyway. There is next to no clearance above the rear most relay top and the bottom of the cover when the cover is as wide open as it gets.

I really don't want to break this thing, but will have to just go back to tugging at it. Thanks, Jim

shingleback · #4 05-02-2007, 07:44 PM

That big one at the back is the combination relay for the blinkers, rear window defroster and and windshield wiper. I have removed mine several times without taking the fusebox cover right off. Just remove the silver ones in front of it and tilt while pulling up.

The cct board on these combination relays tend to have cold solder joints, or burns. Resolder the joints and repair any obvious burns and it should work fine.

MTI · #5 05-03-2007, 01:52 AM

The fuse box cover is removed by first unlatching the spring clip in the front and then squeezing the metal loop at the back of the cover and lifting it up. It helps if the hood is in the vertical position.

JimSmith · #6 05-03-2007, 09:54 PM

Thanks for the hint on gettiing the fuse box cover off. Turns out the relay is fine, but I still have no blinkers. 4-way flashers work fine. So, I guess I have to get into the blinker stalk switch and see what is going on there.

Thanks again for the help, Jim

MTI · #7 05-04-2007, 02:16 AM

The "usual suspect" for the turn signals not working is the hazard flasher switch. If there's no issue with the signal stalk, you may want to revisit that rocker switch.

JimSmith · #8 05-04-2007, 06:53 PM

So, I elected to check the flasher switch since it was much easier to get to and I disassembled it, cleaned it and put it back together. It clicks nicer now, but it is not clear to me that it is working correctly. When I took the bottom plate off, the thing with the electrical connection prongs, one of the arms of the position changing lever, the orange colored rocker switch, was broken off and the other one had the little round "ball" broken off.

But, it seems to be working as a switch, yet the blinkers don't work. The four way flashers work, but it seems possible the "off" position which should enable the blinkers, may not be making correct contact with those broken parts. I may buy another switch tomorrow and see if that fixes it. Taking the steering wheel off with an air bag in there is a little scary. Jim

MTI · #9 05-05-2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmith

Taking the steering wheel off with an air bag in there is a little scary.

Once disarmed by disconnecting the battery, your only practical concern is with a very slight chance that static electricity would energize the system. So, don't drag your feet on the carpet or pet a cat before pulling the bag.

JimSmith · #10 05-05-2007, 03:28 PM

Well, I got a schematic and determined if I shorted terminals 15 and 49 on the plug going to the 4-way flasher switch the blinkers should work. This is the normal "off" position for the switch and prevents you from energizing one or the other blinker while the 4-way flashers are operating. Well, I guess the broken levers inside the switch were an indication of an earlier problem, and, along with them being broken the contact that shorts terminals 15 and 49 didn't work.

So, I find the switch at the dealership is about $120 with my MBCA discount. The price from Phil is $28.XX with shipping of $6. Awesome. That is $100 less than the dealer's parts guy, who in all fairness told me to buy the item from the internet as aparently the MB corporate interest in supporting older cars has become a new profit center of its own, and the prices for common things, like these electrical items and windshield wipers are going out of sight.

So, thanks Phil and Fastlane/Parts. I hope this solves the problem and I can take the shorting clip I made out. Jim