She takes 2 to 3 times of turning key over to get started. It appears at times she is not getting fuel.About one in 10 she starts right up as it should. What could be the problem. 1999with 187K at present time.
Thanks in advance!!

Is there anyone who have had similar problems?

Well, it could be many things, but I had a similar problem and it involved the fuel pressure regulator. Faulty designed part which is very easy to change. Check out the following post to see if it matches your problem and possible solution:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=134970

Hope it helps...

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

Thanks for the reply AR. I have ordered the regulator and hope to replace by this weekend.

MBD

Whoa dude - check your fuel manifold pressure first before tossing parts at it. There's a connector right in front just above the PS pump area where you can hook a gauge up.

It could be anything from fuel pumps to ignition to O2 sensors to crank sensors to fuel computers to ignition controlers ign switches to mass air to OVPs to the alignment of the moon and the stars.

Go get a $100 printout from the dealer

Thanks Salty, I had a test run. I was told I had two weak but not failed front 02 sensors. I was also told that there was carbon build up as the air is pushed across the cylinder heads and that was more than like the cause of my problem. A error code of po104 comes up. I can reset it and it will stay off while I do 100's of hiway miles but comes back on once I am back in the city. I was given an estimate of $4500.00 to repair. I was told by several others this dignosis was wrong. I read other forums and the fuel regulator was suggested. I do know there are times when the auto runs like new then suddenly the miss when at idle and the hard start. Any suggestions or ideas would be welcome.

Thanks,
MBD

That is an air Flow code..so, before doing anything drastic, I would go get some CRC MAF sensor cleaner and take the MAF off and clean it up..
Then retry.

A good ,quick test to check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks is to run the car to build up fuel pressure,turn the car off, then pull the rubber line off of the fuel pressure regulator.Then put a rag under the regulator where you removed the rubber line.
Then wait for a while then recheck it.If you have fuel leaking there, then the regulator needs replaced due to a leaky diaphragm.

Usually you will see fuel leaking at the regulator from the stem that the line attaches to.
This causes the fuel pressure to leak down at the fuel rail and thus takes time to crank and fire off until pressure is built back up.

Sometimes you get lucky and a little fuel spits out at you when you remove the line from the regulator, as no fuel should be getting past the diaphragm.

When you replace the regulator, you will need to loosen the fuel cap to relieve fuel pressure, then just remove the c-clip holding the regulator in, and pop the new one in and reinsert clip....done.

I looked down into the MAF and noticed that there was a lot of build up on the throat flap of the intake. I will take off the MAF and clean it as suggested. I will also check for a leak at the fuel regulator. I guess while I have the MAF off it would be good to clean the flap? Any thing else I need to check while everything is off?

I've seen that sort of build up on 119 heads. It actually gets into everthing - including valve stems, seats, intake stuff [like the throttle parts EA] and all the crankcase vent tubing that runs all over on that motor. That dirt buildup is usually caused by one thing - not changing oil and getting the dirt out of the motor on a routine basis. That's why air/fuel/oil filters are so simple yet so important.

To do the job they'll more than likely separate the manifold from the heads, clean it all up with brushes and chemicals, and replace all the tubing etc. IMHO it's a good service for an aging 119. You can also consider swapping the motor, but you'll spend $6k on that with no guarantees unless you get a good reman w/warranty which adds another $15k.

More than likely this is not a simple one-part fix like I'm sure would be more palatable. I had a 119 that failed "automatic throttle take up" at idle, like when switching on a/c or alternator loads etc. The rpm would quickly drop from 700 down to 300, and sometimes stall. Sure enough, the motor had been seriously neglected, where the original owner had driven it for 50k miles on factory oil. I pulled the top end and did all of the above and that was that.

Suggestion [FWIW] - buy another 140 or an old 300E to drive around for like $5k. Then pull the 119 apart and clean it up yourself

I replaced the fuel regulator and she starts at first bump with no idle problems.
I chose to try this first ( I did CUDA'S test and there was a leak. I have been fighting with this since last June so I am elated to say the least!
Thanks for all the help JF, AD, Salty, AR, & CUDA.

If your intake and throttle body are gunked up, it would be a very good maintenance item to clean it all up really good. Remove all the rubber and plastic of the intake to the throttle body, remove the throttle body, and give the insides of everything a good spraying with throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner. Wipe it down with something with very little lint, then get out the toothbrush for the nooks and crannies in the throttle body, then put it all back together. Your engine will thank you.

Brett

__________________
1997 S600 sedan

Everyone always stresses the fact that the M119 V8 is indestructible, extremely well built and bullet proof. Except for just some minor things, like the fuel regulator.

One more thing: it is a good idea to replace the spark plug on cylinder No. 8 by a new one as you change the fuel regulator. It is better to replace all eight spark plugs, but at least No. 8 after having the starting problems that the fuel regulator create.

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]