Hi everybody,
I bought a '95 W124 convertible (it's hot in DC) and I think it was a good deal. The car doesn't start at all since yesterday. What happened? I tried the amateur overwrite of the alarm (open the passenger door with master key). Didn't help. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump work. The courtesy light doesn' dimm dramatically when key turned, so I guess the starter gets no power...? Battery seems to be good, I connected even a jump starter to it to increase the starting power. No good. If it's the crank position sensor, shouldn't the starter at least turn? Shift lever was in P or N, didn't help. How about the ignition lock? Or how about slapping the starter? And did the W124 already have the computerized error code read-outs?
I know, too many questions, but I'm desperate.
Any help?
Harti.

Check fuse #5 in the fuse panel located in the engine compartment. Had the same problem with my 95 cabriolet last week. Good luck!

__________________
Joe W.


1995 E320 Cabriolet
1967 Corvette Convertible
1993 Corvette Convertible (40th Anniversary)
2000 Harley-Davidson Sportster
1994 Honda Accord

Got a test lamp or jumper wire ??????

Hi Arthur,
I have a lamp and a wire. What for???
Harti.

A few quicky test.
As JW posted., go to fuse box and see if you have 12v on each side of fuse #5 .. do not go to fuse end, but rather the connector that the fuse fits into..they are famous for having a poor connection right at the bullet ends and you can not see that, but a test lamp on each side will tell the tale..you can also just spin the fuse in it's holder and that usually cleans up the poor connection. The test lamp has to have a ground on one lead, the other lead on the fuse connection..
Anyway ,try that test first..if that is OK , I will post the next suspect for you..

Most of my experiences have been a bad battery except for one time when it turned out to be a bad starter on my 190E. In the 4 MB's I have owned, they wouldn't jump start when the battery's went bad and there was no warning. A friend of mine owns an Indy MB shop and he advised me to not go past 4 years on the original MB battery. Well, I didn't listen and was stuck in a Mall parking garage on a Friday evening. Luckily there was a Sears Auto store there so I put in a new battery and drove home.

I see that you have a '67 C2 Convertible...Big $ car and going up in value every year.

Good luck resolving your starting problem.

Dave

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

The neutral safety switch could be the problem, they sometimes break internally. The switch is on the side of the transmission, kind of hard to get to.

First thing tomorrow is check fuse #5.
I'll keep you posted.
Harti

That is a Key On test, by the way..

Fuse #5 changed, no success.
I'm going to change the battery just to rule out any faults on that side. Any other ideas before I see my friendly $$$$dealer?
Harti

Jerry,
can I test the neutral switch somehow?
Harti

Next test:

Locate the 3 wire connector on the firewall that seperates the brake master area from the engine. This connector is just to the left [ looking from the front of car] of the master cylinder..unplug the connector ..now, take a jumper wire and go from the bat pos+ terminal to the center terminal of the connector on the firewall [ not the harness you just unplugged]..make sure car is in N or P.. this test should turn engine over ifstarter/solinoid/battery are all OK. Key does not have to be ON for this test ..This test simple by-passes the NNS /Ignition sw/K38 relay and verifies those starter parts.
If that is Ok , do this next test:
Take your test light and hook one lead to a good ground and the other to the center wire on the harness you just took off firewall plug..
put it on windshield where you can see it [ or have a helper in car]
Now, with left hand, hold key over to start position and hold it there while ,at the same time , move shifter selector back and forth thru the gears , P and N .. Does the lamp light at any time?

Arthur, I was referring to your statement yesterday at 9:11pm. And when I checked the firewall connection the key was off.
Sorry for my misunderstanding.
Harti

Ok.. the key On test was for the fuse test, not the starter jumper test.
If you have jumpered 12 v to the center terminal of the
plug on the firewall , then the problem is downstream from that test point..the reason we use that test location is b/c that eliminates all parts in the cabin as they are the 12 v feed to that point , which then feeds the starter soiinoid. However , you now want to look at the wires behind the oil filter for bad insulation and burnt wires ..These are the wires that connected that firewall connector test point to the starter..they were a common problem on that chassis due to bad insulation. Look right behind the filter area..check that before condemning the starter/solinoid.
And if these wires are OK, check the top battery cable nut on top of the starter for looseness/poor connection..that is another common 104 starter possible.
You may have bad starter brushes/sol , but check the feeds as mentioned before going for a starter.
You are zeroing in on it now...

Hi everybody,
I checked the wires around the starter, didn't find anything suspicious, then took the starter out and put some juice through it: dead! Tomorrow I'll take the starter apart and see, what the matter is.
I'll keep you posted.
Harti