My daughter has a 190e that started back firing. In looking at it I found that the distributor cap had a problem installed a new cap an rotor. Here is where the trouble started. Since it had been running a bit rough, I decided to install a new Idle Control Valve that I had kicking around the garage. I also had new rubber hoses to attach to the valve, so I replace the rubber while I was in there. I also installed a new set of plug wires and plugs (I don't get her car often so I do all I can when I get the chance)

Results - Car stared and Idled like new. However there was no power. When I depress the peddle, the rpm go up, but the transmission does not respond. It goes but barely.

(The power issue is, I think the vaccum line to the transmission. Tight quarters under the Idle Control Valve for replacing hoses. I think that I somehow pull the line out of the transmission)

Next morning, it started once a bit hard and then would not start at all?

1. Fuel Pump Relay is good (checked with a spare backup)
2. Overload protection relay is good (checked with a spare backup)
3. I am getting Gas, pressure regulator is ok. (checked with a spare backup)

This makes me feel that the Fuel Pump Relay, OV Protection Relay, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump & Fuel pressure regulator are all working. Must be on the spark side? But I replaced the Distributor, Roter, Wires and plugs.

It tries to start but does'nt quit get there. If I push the peddle to the floor, it almost starts. I pulled all the plugs and they seemed oily. I cleaned and reinstalled. No sure why they would be fouled. Still no start.

Any ideas on what I can check. Like I said, I am getting fuel through the pressure regulator and the fuel line is pressurized. Could I have lost my coil coincedetally or perhaps was it going all the time?

P.S. I did check to see if the vaccum line to the transmission was holding and it was not. I replace the line and rubber and it is holding vaccum now, if I could only determine why the engine wont start I could see if this was the power issue.

Cant you test if there are sparks ?, you get this little tester at auto parts store which shows a red light when you crank. If there are no sparks, then it could be the coil. Does this car have a crank position sensor, without this signal you cant get a spark on my 87, 260E. Have you tried spraying quick start fulid in the air intake ? Is there sufficient vaccum on the intake, between 16 to 22 inch Hg ?

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Saumil S. Patel

I have the same problem as yours. I replaced OVP, spark plugs and caps, Klima relay, cold start valve, idle valve, injectors, fuel distributor (upper), lower distributor, all sensors, check valve, regulator valve, fuel filter, and fuel pump. None of these work! Luckily, I got these parts very cheap from the junk yard and i don't know if these are good parts. It must be because if I put fuel directly at the intake manipold it will start and continues to run fine with no problem. This is an indicative that all the electrical systems are running good. The only part that I did not change is the EHA. I even take the car to the reputable repair shop but they were not able to pin point the problem. Try to put fuel at the manipold to see if the car will start and run. If it does, all your electrical systems work. I am going to try the EHA and let you know, and if you solve your problem before mine, let us know. Good luck!

EHA is for enriching during acceleration, dont think it would prevent your car from starting. After it starts, if EHA is not working, you will not get a good throttle response. If you can rev up your car to 5000 rpm once it starts, it is less likely to be the EHA.

The most critical part is the cold start valve. Is it an electromechanical valve like mine on a 87 260E ? If it is, then it can be tested. When you turn on ignition, you should get a voltage (about 10-11V) on the valve's coil. If there is a voltage, you can remove it and then see if it sprays gas when you try to crank. I am suspecting it is not working and that would explain why putting gas in the intake makes it start and then all is fine after it starts.

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Saumil S. Patel

Thanks on the Spark suggestions.

How do you test the intake vacuum? Is this the line that goes from the intake manifold to the distributor? I do have vacuum testing equipment

Thanks

I am not familiar with your car, but on the intake manifold, there should be multiple places where vaccum lines are attached, just remove one and attach the pressure gauge. BUT this you can only do after the car starts, the 16-22 inch Hg is what you should get on idle, and the vaccum test can reveal exhaust problems will not solve your startup problem. Did you actually check if your cold start valve is functioning ? Look at my reply to Jorge. You can actually test it, this is the most important component for cold startup, if you dont get the voltage or dont get the spray, it explains the problem.

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Saumil S. Patel

Try to richen up the f/d clockwise 1/4 turn at a time. count your turns and even write it down,,you might have to put it back,,so be sure of your turns. If nothing helps then send it out for rebuild.

yours seems to be related to spark.do check the p/s as in title.lots of post you can search out for testing info.

when that car is started the current from the f.i. computer to the eha briefly will run upto 40milliamps which provides the fuel for starting.the coldstart valve will only operate in freezing weather.

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David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

Huh !! as far as I can remember, on my 87, 260E, my start valve worked when I tried to start the car. Are there two different kinds of fuel pump relays then ? I will check this again as soon as I get my fan pulley bracket mounted.

Contrary to what I said earlier, correct operation EHA IS NECESSARY as David said, for the car to start, check the current at the EHA, should be between 40 to 60 ma based on the manual I just checked.

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Saumil S. Patel

Hay,

I'm the guy that started this thread. Thanks for all the advice. I did not have alot of time last night to check things out. I did, on your advice spray starter fluid directly into the intake. Still did not start. This leads me to believe that I have no spark. I can smell fuel.

Tonight I am getting a device to check the ignition coil.

Does anyone know what the symptoms are when a coil goes out? I thought that there was no warning, it just quit. This one seem to gotten weaker over a couple of days.

Thanks - Good Forum!

Easiest way but not the safest is to pull off an ignition wire and while holding it close to a plug, have somebody crank the engine.

One question, did you install the dist cap and rotor when the engine was at ignition TDC?

Other than taking an amphere reading on EHA with power on, are there resistance readings that I can take and what pin(s)? I am going to the junk yard and get one but I want to make sure that the EHA is good. At the junk yard, I can only take a resistance reading - no power applied. Anyone please and thanks!

Yes, the resistance of the coil should be between 15 and 20 ohms. You will also need o-rings if your old o-rings were leaking gas.

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Saumil S. Patel