First, thanks for the forum.

I like this car a lot! But right now it has me perplexed. Shortly after buying it I went through the engine compartment taking stock of what needed attention and what needed just some tidying up.

The belt was cracked and the fan blade had some fingernail size chips. I got a belt and blade from Fastlane. I've been looking at the E Class Owner's Bible which made this look like a fairly easy job. Last night I opened the hood to size up the job, check what tools were needed, etc.

First thing I noticed was that the fan shroud is a one piece thing as shown in the Fastlane parts listing (G5020-16372), not the 2 piece shown in the book. Is this a later model mod?

Next, I could not find the tensioner clamping bolt let alone the tensioner adjuster. I lost some sleep over that last night. Doing a search here I saw some mention of using a 15mm socket on the tensioner pulley nut. Is this the case? could it be that easy?

Then I saw the tiny drops of coolant coming from the lower radiator hose. Maybe the hose clamp could just be tightened but maybe it's better replaced. The rad was recently replaced by the PO. The top hose from the waterpump looks new but both lower ones look to be original equipment. May as well replace those too.

The fan blade is now cracked down to the roots so the car is parked. I am driving the Town & Country today which stings a little causing delayed buyer's remorse. The car just doesn't look as tight and fit as it did when I first looked at it. Chalk that up to experience... I'll be more careful next time.

Obviously I need a real shop manual for this car and would appreciate recommendations and sources.

Thanks,

Tim Benner
1995 E320 141K

I have a 95 E320. The fan shroud is a two piece unit that could easily be mistaken for one piece.

You should have a small coolant hose that runs from the top drivers side of the radiator to the coolant overflow reservoir. This hose runs through a black plastic loop at the top center of the fan shroud. This loop is part of a small fork shaped clip. You can remove this clip by pulling it forward. Once this clip is removed, you should be able to to slightly rotate the part of the fan shroud closest to the engine. This slight rotation will disengage four plastic pins from four slotted holes thereby separating the fan shroud into two pieces. Hang the smaller piece (the one you just rotated ) on the fan to get it out of the way. Remove the two metal clips at the top sides of the larger piece of the fan shroud (the clip on the drivers side is just underneath the top radiator hose) and you should be able to remove it by llifting it up and out. It takes a little wiggling to get one of the fan shroud tabs past the upper radiator hose.

Collapsed motor mounts could be the cause of a broken/chipped fan. The collapsed mounts allow the engine to drop a bit, and that causes the fan to strike the shroud....

I attached a picture of a collapsed mount next to a new one....big difference!

Attached Thumbnails

 

My shroud has one of the two pieces. I can see where the other one would fit. The new fan clears the shroud OK but I'll have another look at the motor mounts. I thought they looked OK but maybe that's because I wanted them to.

Is there a measurement I can take to see if the existing mounts are up to spec or collapsed?

In case they are collapsed how big of a job is replacing the mounts? It this an afternoon DIY or something that require a hoist & specialty tools, etc?

As always, Thanks!

Tim Benner
95 E320 141K
67 Triumph Spitfire

Easiest way to check mounts is from below. (Ramps or jack stands are sufficient--as always, be careful) Remove the black plastic engine bay lower cover to expose the engine bay from below. Looking from underneath towards the front of the car you can see the mounts. Take a good look at the picture I posted and compare. Look at the gap between the chassis and the bottom flange of the mount, If this gap is 5/8 inch or less, mounts are probably collapsed. Replacing is very DIYable. I've done two cars, first took about an hour and a half, second took about 25 minutes. Requires a low profile socket (17 mm if I remember correctly) on the top bolt of the passenger side mount. Top bolt on drivers side is accessible from the top with a long extension and wobble type socket drive. Bottom bolts are accessible from below with a socket and short drive extension. Once mounts are loose, the engine must be raised to get the mounts out--best to use a lift on the engine hoist point. (I used a floor jack with wood blocks on the bottom of the oil pan--a bit risky because if done carelessly you could cause damage to the oil pan. If you choose this method be sure the blocks transfer load to the front and rear edges of the pan.)

If your mounts are collapsed you will notice a vibration through the seat of your pants especially when at idle at a stop light. Replacing collpased mounts makes a very noticable difference in motor vibration felt in the car.

The actual spec. on mount clearence is 13mm ..less is a collapsed mount.
It is wise to also change the rear mount, as a bad one changes the driveshaft angle and wears out the flex joint prematurely. Changing the front mounts w/o changing the rear trans mount actually increases that angle
b/c now the front of engine is back to proper spec , but the rear is not, so it is advisable to do all three at the same time...

I was able to get 10 minutes to look at the car last night and measures the mounts with a tape measure. The rubber part between the frame and the metal cap of the mount is about 1 1/4". Maybe the PO replaced those when the fan chipped. But why nit replace the fanblade then too. Well the belt was in bad shape too so maybe these were a lower priority to him. That scares me but I already own it.

Thanks to all for your help!

__________________
Tim Benner

00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K

These are minor/routine maintenance issues. Don't let them get you down.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

You are so right brewtoo. The motor mounts are about the first thing that anyone suggested might be faulty that wasn't. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 0w40. Hope that's the right stuff and doesn't come leaking out all over the place. The car likes it a lot! This is by far the easiest car I have ever changed oil on. Love the filter up top and the drain right behind the front bumper!

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Tim Benner

00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K