Can I R&R my transmission?
 

I have a 92 300E and I'm wanting to know if it's possible for me to remove and replace my transmission (automatic).

I do not have a lift, so I'm curious if I can drive the car upon my ramps and physically remove the transmission without giving myself a hernia, etc. I'm in my 50's, so I'm not a muscle bound teenager, but I am in pretty good shape for my age and I would like to try and rebuild the tranny myself with the help of a very knowledgeable tranny friend - we're just not sure we can get the beast out and back in.

Any of you guys pulled one in you garage, and if so, how difficult was it?

Also, anyone out there ever rebuild an air pump? It sounds like the bearings are going.

thanks

I have done it on my back. Its a workout. I would not attempt it without a transmission jack. That thing is heavy especially when you are laying on your back.

David, I just did mine last week on my '91 300SE.
Don't even think about it without a tranny jack.
That thing weighs close to 100 pounds. If you got it out it would crush you, and if it didn't, you'd never get it back in.
I got a nice tranny jack at Harbor Freight for only $50 a few years back.
using that, it's actually pretty easy. I had to put a couple of 2x12's under my rhino ramps in order to get it out from under the car while still on the jack, but no biggy.

You could try a regular jack, and risk life/limb/damage to the car & tranny.
Just say No, spend a few of those $2500 you are saving, and get a real tranny jack.

DG

Oh, David, if yur air pump is like my '91, it uses a magnetic clutch like an AC compressor. And it only cuts in for a minute on a cold start, then cuts off and only turns the outer idler bearing. If the pump itself is noisy, just unplug the wire to the magnetic clutch, and it will never cut on (also plug the vacuum signal to the air valve so it won't open and possibly let exhaust back up). If the idler bearing is bad, they can be easily replaced for not too much $$.

DG

You have the black Rhino Ramps and after raising them 2" you were able to remove the trans from under the car? Just trying to figure out how high the car has to be. Did you also raise the rear of the car?

Regarding the air pump. Maybe this will help. http://www.mbpumps.com/

The guy does stand behind his pumps (in my experience).

I wish I knew about this before I paid the dealer over $1,500 three years ago for a Nipondenso air pump. One thing I learned was that any Japanese part that's connected to a German-designed car is super expensive to buy from the dealer. My bearings went out on the old pump.

My air pump adventure:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=186139&highlight=glenmore


glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

Thanks guys. Concerning the tranny, you have confirmed our suspicions - it is a heavy buger and don't be under it when you finally get it unboldted. It sounds like the cheap tranny jack is viable though, so I'm going to try and talk my friend into helping me. Also, thanks for the advice about putting a couple of 2 bys under the ramps to get a little extra height. Wouldn't that be the pits to get the tranny unbolted and then not be able to get it out from under the car? Talk about something that would ruin your day.

The air pump sounds like a simple fix since mine makes the "bad bearing noise" all the time. I'll follow up with the fellow that sells the bearings. I'm assuming the bearing can just be punched out and doesn't require any special tools to get it off of a shaft.

I've downloaded all the rebuild documentation on the tranny and I think I've talked myself (and my friend) into rebuilding this thing ourselves. I've noticed a company (adsit) sells a rebuilt tranny for 1400 exchange, but I've always wanted to open up one of these things and see what's inside - call me a little crazy. Our only reservation at this point concerns any "have to have" special tools. Any insight from you guys on special tools or "gotchas" to look out for?

thanks

No special tools needed. Just a good selection of the usual stuff. I used 2 or 3 12 inch long 1/2" socket extensions to get the upper bolts out of the bell housing.

I have a spare tranny in my garage for my W124 as my current one is on its last legs.

Even with it sitting out in the open on a pallet, it's pretty cumbersome to move! I can't imagine having the leverage to remove it while being directly underneath the tranny unless I was Magneto!!

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/IMG_0369.jpg

Should be no problem, David. I pulled our 91 300E trans with good jack stands and a larger floor jack with a 6 inch square jack pad. As you said, stay out from it. Pull the engine oil filter to help locate the upper bell housing bolts. Use good six-point sockets on them and have your friend ensure the socket is on correctly while you are underneath. Using all your extentions and a cheater, loosen these tight bolts. The rest is regular. Look closely for all the sensors, plugs and tubes. Good luck.

What about any special tools needed to rebuild the tranny. The documentation list several tools, but are they "nice to haves" or "gotta haves"?

G-Benz - may I ask where you got your rebuilt tranny? Was there any guarantee? Mine won't go into reverse without some patience so I have to make sure I'm parked on a slight reverse incline or that I can pull forward. I don't know how much time I have until this thing completely dies.

thanks

I did a complete rebuild on two of them and I did not need anything special except for a metric tap and a few flat head screws to replace some rivets that must be drilled out on the clutch drums. The only other thing was the deep well socket needed to remove the nut on the output shaft. Based on your description of the reverse delay, you dont have much time.

Brewtoo, you had asked about geting the car high enough to roll the tranny out on the trans jack. I used the std Rhino ramps on the front (approx 6 inches I think) with two 2x12 boards under each. I also jacked up the rear
about 6 inches to give more working room. When I lowered the tranny, i was just able to slip the big end out around the fenderwell behind the tire. Pretty smooth.

David, one special tool that would have been nice is the B1 spring compressor.
It pushes the outside cover in, against two big springs, so you can place the ring in the groove. Pretty easy to get the thing out, pretrty hard to get it smoothly back in. You will need help to hold it in and set the c clamp.

DG
I fab'd a lever using the oil line banjo bolt and a big end wrence

So you can replace the B1 seal by compressing the cover and spring, and not removing the B1 spring and piston? It was never clear to me whether the spring had to come out to install a new seal.

Well, no you can't reach the sealing o-ring by just compressing the B1 cover -the o-ring is about 1/4 inch in, and the cover will compress in only about 0.050. So, push the cover in, hold it against about 50 lb spring pressure (you will need some kind of tool to hold it in, unless you are Arnold) and remove the c-clamp. Then release the cover and let it slide out. The piston can then be easily pulled out. This B1 piston assembly, and band, must be removed to service the B3 clutch plates. The front cover/pump and the K1 clutch will come right out with the B1 still in, but the B3 clutch is behind it.

DG

Thanks guys - after reading through the documentation I noticed the "special" tool mentioned that does the compression and we thought we could probably fabricate something to substitute. Sounds like you guys have devised your own methods using a C clamp. Since I'm a woodworker (hobby) I've plenty of C Clamps, and I've got a metric tap and die set (not sure it's the right thread, but I guess I'll find out)...so it seems I have all the tools I need and now I just need enough nerve and patience to proceed.

Also, thanks for mentioning the fact you jacked up the rear end as well to help with the clearance. I was wondering if that would help. I always get a little nervous when I have a 2 ton car up in the air with no tires touching and I'm crawling around underneath it.

The tip on removing the oil filter was insightful as well - thanks.

Did you guys buy your rebuild kit from this an MB dealer, this site, some other place? Once response indicated I should definitely use OEM parts which certainly seems wise in this case.

Tomorrow I'm leaving town and will be out of pocket for about a week, so if I don't respond to any thread questions it's not because I've become disinterested - just won't have computer access.

thanks again guys. Your responses have given me some encouragement:).

Oh - one last question - It appears I will need some torque wrenche(s). What's your reccomendations? I've got the big stuff, but I don't have the 3/8" or 1/4" size torque wrenches (unless my buddy does).

Dave

DG - Sorry, I misunderstood your explanation of the C clamp. I now see what you're saying about the c clamp (part of the tranny). I'll need to fabricate something to compress the spring and that you devised a solution using a bolt and large wrench. DUH:idea3:....Just finished my 1st cup of coffee

I removed and replaced (and did a fix, but not a rebuild) on my 80 W116 300SD without the HF tranny jack. I was not comfortable jacking the car high enough to make use of that tranny jack ( which has a very high scissor base), so I lowered it using a standard trolley jack. Worked Ok. I replaced it using 2 trolley jacks, front and rear to adjust height. I was working alone so it was a bit tough- with 2 people to keep it balanced you could do it easily enough.

An even easier way to remove it would be to find about 3 nesting cardboard boxes that fit under the tranny. Drop the tranny on those and cut them away one by one.