Can I R&R my transmission? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DAVID LEE · #1 07-24-2007, 08:41 PM

I have a 92 300E and I'm wanting to know if it's possible for me to remove and replace my transmission (automatic).

I do not have a lift, so I'm curious if I can drive the car upon my ramps and physically remove the transmission without giving myself a hernia, etc. I'm in my 50's, so I'm not a muscle bound teenager, but I am in pretty good shape for my age and I would like to try and rebuild the tranny myself with the help of a very knowledgeable tranny friend - we're just not sure we can get the beast out and back in.

Any of you guys pulled one in you garage, and if so, how difficult was it?

Also, anyone out there ever rebuild an air pump? It sounds like the bearings are going.

thanks

dpetryk · #2 07-24-2007, 09:56 PM

I have done it on my back. Its a workout. I would not attempt it without a transmission jack. That thing is heavy especially when you are laying on your back.

S-Class Guru · #3 07-24-2007, 10:08 PM

David, I just did mine last week on my '91 300SE.
Don't even think about it without a tranny jack.
That thing weighs close to 100 pounds. If you got it out it would crush you, and if it didn't, you'd never get it back in.
I got a nice tranny jack at Harbor Freight for only $50 a few years back.
using that, it's actually pretty easy. I had to put a couple of 2x12's under my rhino ramps in order to get it out from under the car while still on the jack, but no biggy.

You could try a regular jack, and risk life/limb/damage to the car & tranny.
Just say No, spend a few of those $2500 you are saving, and get a real tranny jack.

DG

S-Class Guru · #4 07-24-2007, 10:25 PM

Oh, David, if yur air pump is like my '91, it uses a magnetic clutch like an AC compressor. And it only cuts in for a minute on a cold start, then cuts off and only turns the outer idler bearing. If the pump itself is noisy, just unplug the wire to the magnetic clutch, and it will never cut on (also plug the vacuum signal to the air valve so it won't open and possibly let exhaust back up). If the idler bearing is bad, they can be easily replaced for not too much $$.

DG

brewtoo · #5 07-24-2007, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S-Class Guru

I had to put a couple of 2x12's under my rhino ramps in order to get it out from under the car while still on the jack, but no biggy.

You have the black Rhino Ramps and after raising them 2" you were able to remove the trans from under the car? Just trying to figure out how high the car has to be. Did you also raise the rear of the car?

emerydc8 · #6 07-24-2007, 11:28 PM

Regarding the air pump. Maybe this will help. http://www.mbpumps.com/

The guy does stand behind his pumps (in my experience).

I wish I knew about this before I paid the dealer over $1,500 three years ago for a Nipondenso air pump. One thing I learned was that any Japanese part that's connected to a German-designed car is super expensive to buy from the dealer. My bearings went out on the old pump.

glenmore · #7 07-25-2007, 02:04 AM

My air pump adventure:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=186139&highlight=glenmore

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

DAVID LEE · #8 07-25-2007, 08:00 AM

Thanks guys. Concerning the tranny, you have confirmed our suspicions - it is a heavy buger and don't be under it when you finally get it unboldted. It sounds like the cheap tranny jack is viable though, so I'm going to try and talk my friend into helping me. Also, thanks for the advice about putting a couple of 2 bys under the ramps to get a little extra height. Wouldn't that be the pits to get the tranny unbolted and then not be able to get it out from under the car? Talk about something that would ruin your day.

The air pump sounds like a simple fix since mine makes the "bad bearing noise" all the time. I'll follow up with the fellow that sells the bearings. I'm assuming the bearing can just be punched out and doesn't require any special tools to get it off of a shaft.

I've downloaded all the rebuild documentation on the tranny and I think I've talked myself (and my friend) into rebuilding this thing ourselves. I've noticed a company (adsit) sells a rebuilt tranny for 1400 exchange, but I've always wanted to open up one of these things and see what's inside - call me a little crazy. Our only reservation at this point concerns any "have to have" special tools. Any insight from you guys on special tools or "gotchas" to look out for?

thanks

dpetryk · #9 07-25-2007, 08:18 AM

No special tools needed. Just a good selection of the usual stuff. I used 2 or 3 12 inch long 1/2" socket extensions to get the upper bolts out of the bell housing.

G-Benz · #10 07-25-2007, 10:48 AM

I have a spare tranny in my garage for my W124 as my current one is on its last legs.

Even with it sitting out in the open on a pallet, it's pretty cumbersome to move! I can't imagine having the leverage to remove it while being directly underneath the tranny unless I was Magneto!!

alsevi · #11 07-25-2007, 10:01 PM

Should be no problem, David. I pulled our 91 300E trans with good jack stands and a larger floor jack with a 6 inch square jack pad. As you said, stay out from it. Pull the engine oil filter to help locate the upper bell housing bolts. Use good six-point sockets on them and have your friend ensure the socket is on correctly while you are underneath. Using all your extentions and a cheater, loosen these tight bolts. The rest is regular. Look closely for all the sensors, plugs and tubes. Good luck.

DAVID LEE · #12 07-25-2007, 10:11 PM

What about any special tools needed to rebuild the tranny. The documentation list several tools, but are they "nice to haves" or "gotta haves"?

DAVID LEE · #13 07-26-2007, 08:29 AM

G-Benz - may I ask where you got your rebuilt tranny? Was there any guarantee? Mine won't go into reverse without some patience so I have to make sure I'm parked on a slight reverse incline or that I can pull forward. I don't know how much time I have until this thing completely dies.

thanks

dpetryk · #14 07-26-2007, 08:49 AM

I did a complete rebuild on two of them and I did not need anything special except for a metric tap and a few flat head screws to replace some rivets that must be drilled out on the clutch drums. The only other thing was the deep well socket needed to remove the nut on the output shaft. Based on your description of the reverse delay, you dont have much time.

S-Class Guru · #15 07-26-2007, 10:19 AM

Brewtoo, you had asked about geting the car high enough to roll the tranny out on the trans jack. I used the std Rhino ramps on the front (approx 6 inches I think) with two 2x12 boards under each. I also jacked up the rear
about 6 inches to give more working room. When I lowered the tranny, i was just able to slip the big end out around the fenderwell behind the tire. Pretty smooth.

David, one special tool that would have been nice is the B1 spring compressor.
It pushes the outside cover in, against two big springs, so you can place the ring in the groove. Pretty easy to get the thing out, pretrty hard to get it smoothly back in. You will need help to hold it in and set the c clamp.

DG
I fab'd a lever using the oil line banjo bolt and a big end wrence