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  #1  
Old 08-27-2007, 10:19 AM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
1989 300CE - Strut replacement - Advice needed

Hi all,

one of my struts is blown out, however the shop said it cannot be replaced singly but all 4 struts. It is around $900 parts and labor.

I am wondering why should all 4 struts need to be replaced when one is kaput? Is the shop right?

I'd like your opinion before authorizing the job.


Thanks for your input.

__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE
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  #2  
Old 08-27-2007, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,726
You should do both sides - 2 at a time, but don't necessarily need to do all four. By the way you have 2 struts (front) and 2 shocks (rear). It's a fairly easy DIY project - front struts should be about $100 each, rears about $50-60 each.
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  #3  
Old 08-27-2007, 10:59 AM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
Thanks deanyel!

are the parts for 300CE the same as 300E ?

would those fit my car?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-GR-2-GR2-STRUTS-SHOCKS-MERCEDES-W124-260E-300E-300D_W0QQitemZ160151271317QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33590QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Later: I checked at FastLane and found the same item fitting 300CE as well, so question answered. Now I need to search for DIY threads on strut replacement, although I still have doubt if my DIY skill is sufficient for this job. Any encouragement ? any link to existing DIY threads?
__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE

Last edited by Texholdem; 08-27-2007 at 02:51 PM.
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2007, 01:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 39
Sounds a little high. Go see Billy Polley @ Park Place - Dallas and see what the cost is. You get 10% off for being MB Club member.
Another option, Call Louden Motorcars and get all 4 struts/shocks replaced, car aligned properly and be done with it.
Not a real bad DIY project but can be difficult without some knowledge/tools.
Good luck!
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  #5  
Old 08-27-2007, 01:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge La
Posts: 2,632
I am sure you will get a flurry of replies here regarding shocks.

Nearly all will say Bilsteins are your best bet. I don't have experience with others. I do have Bilstein comforts and those are nice.

I know the rears are the same. Almost positive the fronts are the same from the CE to the E. I have both types of cars, but have never replaced fronts.

I will some day... I have replaces some front strut mounts. If I were going to do the front struts, i would invest in the mounts too.....

Of course within budget limitations.

Initially I would just replace the two on the axle your are having the problem with..
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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]
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  #6  
Old 08-27-2007, 02:23 PM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
My research on the forum led me to this

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=149084&highlight=strut+replacement

Maybe I could find one with photos.

Thanks to everyone!


Later: many people suggest lowering the control arm on a jack, so that a coil spring compressor would be unnecessary. How about combining both approaches to get more safety? Would that make sense? Thx!
__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE

Last edited by Texholdem; 08-27-2007 at 03:49 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-27-2007, 11:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Use the spring compressor or leave the car sitting on a jackstand under the control arm. NEVER lower that type control arm without the spring contained, it WILL come out and likely kill you, it is compressed about 4 or 5 inches with the control arm down to where it will leap out of the bottom bucket. I leave my car on the jackstands, easy enough and quite safe.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #8  
Old 08-27-2007, 11:22 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,726
The coupe struts are different than the sedan, and a little more expensive, probably a little more than $100. You can get Boge for less than $100 if you shop around. Boge is also OEM and, at least in Germany, considered the equal of Bilstein. I think those are the only two suppliers you should consider.

http://www.bilstein.com/303passengercars.pdf

Last edited by deanyel; 08-27-2007 at 11:32 PM.
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  #9  
Old 08-27-2007, 11:53 PM
The Benzman
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NYC - Queens
Posts: 28
Strut replacement

I have found the struts cheapest at the dealer!!!

I was able to replace a front set easily with very few tools. There are two (19mm?) bolts attached to the backing plate and another nut on the shock tower under the hood. The rod needs a 7 or 8mm allen key depending on manufacturer.

What I did was:
1. Jack up the car and place supports under body parts, or lifting pads.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Loosen the bolts at the lower end of the strut to make later removal easier
4. Jack up under the lower ball joint just enough to support it. While holding the shaft with an allen wrench, remove the top nut from the shock tower.
5. Remove the two lower bolts, then slide the strut out.
6. Remove the orange buffer and transfer it to the new strut. If it is damaged it should be replaced.
7. Install the new strut aligning the shaft through the hole, screw in the top nut and washers just a few threads, then screw in the lower bolts.
8. Hold the cup washers and tighten the top nut, holding the shaft with the allen key, then tighten the lower bolts to the correct torque.
9. Remove the jack and refit the wheel
Repeat for the other side.

It is important that you use the jack under the lower ball joint while replacing the struts or the coil spring could pop out with disastrous results!!! You are using the weight of the car to compress the coils, and it works well.

Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes a side, once you have your parts, tools and workspace ready.
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1939 170 - till I was 3, still turns heads
1989 300TE - daily driver has 263k
1987 300E - purrs happily with 120k
1983 300SD - keeps my friend happy

Last edited by vnoronha; 08-28-2007 at 12:19 AM.
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  #10  
Old 08-28-2007, 03:59 PM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by vnoronha View Post
I have found the struts cheapest at the dealer!!!

I was able to replace a front set easily with very few tools. There are two (19mm?) bolts attached to the backing plate and another nut on the shock tower under the hood. The rod needs a 7 or 8mm allen key depending on manufacturer.

What I did was:
1. Jack up the car and place supports under body parts, or lifting pads.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Loosen the bolts at the lower end of the strut to make later removal easier
4. Jack up under the lower ball joint just enough to support it. While holding the shaft with an allen wrench, remove the top nut from the shock tower.
5. Remove the two lower bolts, then slide the strut out.
6. Remove the orange buffer and transfer it to the new strut. If it is damaged it should be replaced.
7. Install the new strut aligning the shaft through the hole, screw in the top nut and washers just a few threads, then screw in the lower bolts.
8. Hold the cup washers and tighten the top nut, holding the shaft with the allen key, then tighten the lower bolts to the correct torque.
9. Remove the jack and refit the wheel
Repeat for the other side.

It is important that you use the jack under the lower ball joint while replacing the struts or the coil spring could pop out with disastrous results!!! You are using the weight of the car to compress the coils, and it works well.

Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes a side, once you have your parts, tools and workspace ready.

Thanks, if the strut mount is to be also replaced, in which order is it done?
Removal: After removing the strut ?
Replacement: before the strut ?
__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE
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  #11  
Old 08-28-2007, 04:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
Posts: 1,882
I have removed the front coil spring on a W124 without a coil spring compressor, just using a jack. By the time the control arm was almost fully lowered, there was hardly any compression going on at the spring - maybe just 1 or 2 inches. If you lower the control arm very slowly (and from the opposite side of the car as a precaution), you shouldn't run into any problems.

With that said, you shouldn't need to lower the control arm or remove the spring to replace the strut. Just support the control arm at the ball joint as stated earlier.
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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2007, 10:11 AM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercoleza View Post
I have removed the front coil spring on a W124 without a coil spring compressor, just using a jack. By the time the control arm was almost fully lowered, there was hardly any compression going on at the spring - maybe just 1 or 2 inches. If you lower the control arm very slowly (and from the opposite side of the car as a precaution), you shouldn't run into any problems.

With that said, you shouldn't need to lower the control arm or remove the spring to replace the strut. Just support the control arm at the ball joint as stated earlier.
gmercoleza, I'm confused! first you said "If you lower the control arm very slowly ..." then "With that said, you shouldn't need to lower the control arm ..."

__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2007, 11:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
Posts: 1,882
You shouldn't actually need to lower the control arm to replace a strut. I was just addressing the previous statement regarding the spring flying out of there violently, and helping you to understand that IF you were to lower it slowly, the spring would not come flying out of there violently - you would actually have to use a pry bar to pry it off of the control arm. This is from my experience.
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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2007, 11:56 AM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
Posts: 756
Struts and assessories (bump stop, boot) bought. Will try this long weekend. Wish me success .

Thanks for all inputs!

__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE
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