best to have your cylinder change, cause if a wrong key can turn the ignition switch, the ignition switch cylinder is now defective and can no longer provide the purpose it was made for.

I don't know what is more important - to clarify what wrong information has presented, or what new information needs to be presented.

First: the 300E w124 is different than the others.

Buy a 1.5 - 2.0mm bike spoke. Bend in a square u about 4 inches long & with to be exactly the width of the 2 holes. File ends down to 60 degrees with angled faces facing each other - now taper the tips of the angled faces down a bit so that they fit in the little holes that we will be targeting. See, even filing the ends to a pin point at 60 degrees all the way around would be ideal because all we care about is hitting the small 2 holes at the very base of the collar that will pull in the two detents that are, presently pushing into the groove inside the collar. This tool will slide either above or below the 2 o'clock positioned tumbler clip about 3/4 inch in. We don't care about that because we want the collar out & the tumbler is easily removed after the collar. So, this very straight tool with pointed ends will slide down all the way (as deep as the collar), into the small holes & force inward the upper an lower detents that are presently engaged in the groove of the collar.

First, take 3 minutes to remove the plastic covering from the lock, pry with screwdriver from the left side near steering wheel, and the left cover by pulling off headlight switch & unscrewing large screw with electrician pliers, then 3 phillip head screws under parking break release, then 5 up & 2 under 5/15" hex nuts for lower knee kick area. 3 mins on & 3 minutes off. Do it.

You might get by with just the key plastic cover only if somehow your tool hits it right off. Nah, just do it.

First, if you have been on this for a while, sit back read & be dismayed...

No, the collar does not unscrew. No, 14g house wire or a paper clip will not help you, AND no, you don't worry worry about taking the tumbler and cylinder out as a set. How about this: NO, the little black clip on the tumbler is not your objective, and needs to have nothing to do with the removal. OK, lets go here: NO, NO, NO, don't even begin listening to the idea of pulling on the key for removing the tumbler and collar. You know what? YOU DO NEED the tool for both holes.

** The trick here is getting the collar off, and the tumbler (thus clip) has NOTHING to do with the collar's removel. This comes after - sure, they can come off together, but anyone reading this is struggling, so separate the issues!

8 hours on line, and 4 struggling with the car & how I wish I knew the aforementioned truths. Why all the false info? People have assumed that their Lock Cylinder is the same. WRONG.

OK, this is what I needed to know:

1. The tumbler slides into the switch housing, while the harded black collar covers the switch housing. The collar has a plastic coating, making it seem plastic, until hours of tugging & grabbing scratches the plastic off.

2. The collar is empty inside other than a groove lathed into the bottom (furthest from the key entry) end of it and a notch at the 9 o'clock position only to keep the position 1, 2, etc markings in place.

3. The tumbler can be taken out even if you don't depress the flimsy spring metal. THE FLIMSY SPRING METAL HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE COLLAR REMOVAL.

4. SIMPLY: The job involves getting the hardened black collar off. Once off, then the tumbler unit will slide out when reinserting the tool, or pry out if the spring metal clip is (as was mine) is damaged.

Ok, for this lock, the black clip (only on the 2 o'clock position on the tumbler) is only to keep the tumbler from moving around or rattling.

SUMMARY & additional pointers.

This tool needs to be perfectly straight & exactly the same distance from each other as are the two holes while key / tumbler is in position one (can't get position one? read below) so that the prongs of this forked tool enter the holes while they are parallel to each other. First spray WD-40 in the holes with the red tube inserted all the way, then back out 1/8 inch. Do this for each & spray liberally (put towel under to catch the run off). This is not an optional step. As this tool slides in, the top prong will give a nudge near at the 3/4 mark as it passes above or below the tumbler clip. Another 3/4 inch past this, each prong of this forked tool will now, with light wiggling enter into the two detents holes. light wiggling of the collar while doing this will help the release of the detents that are pressing into grove.

All along, I knew it would help to have the collar able to spin. this is done by taking a thin small screw driver & chisling out the notch.. a very small notch - see red arrow.

Ok, this is going to cause some concern for those most versed (who had there chance to give photos & details) but here it goes: The shiney key entrance portion of the tumbler only needs to be in the #1 position for the holes to line up with the ignition switch portion into which the tumbler sits. STUCK KEY? BROKEN KEY? OR JUST CAN'T GET THE IGNITION TO MOVE to position #1? Well, why not just put a big screw driver in the key slot entry & force this front portion of the tumbler to turn (wrench on square shaft of screw driver) to where you want it. It will break from the rest of the tumbler, but heck, you are replacing it anyway with the ebay supplied tumbler ($50) anyway. I was shocked to discover that only the front portion of the tumbler needed to line up with the holes & that mercedes didn't figure this as they put so much effort into their megaGodzilla metal into the collar. I asked and asked this quiestion, and felt a bit stupid in doing so, because I assumed it too easy a way out of this - just force it & snap the front key entry from the rest of the tumbler.. how good is this?

So, after hours of research & drilling & wiggling & figuring, I prayed a new prayer in church, came home & simply inserted the tool again (after more WD-40) wiggled while wiggling (turning) right to left with my plumbers pliers on the collar & suddenly the collar started to turn (the notch had worn down some & one of the detents let loose, I turned further.. with my heart racing in anticipation of my son no longer bugging me to use my car, and low and behold, with a good grip, & a flat head screw driver behind the collar, at the base, it let loose.

I needed to know that there is nothing inside the collar, and that there was a groove in the end. I needed to know that there is no connection between the removal of the tumbler and the hardened collar. I needed to know that only the key entry portion of the tumbler needed to be in position one to get the tool to the end of the collar. I needed to know that my objective was to get the collar off and it would take a pair of pliers wiggling on it while in and out with my spoke - tool to get free it up & that it would still take some light prying to wiggle the collar for the first 3/8 inch. I needed to know that Jesus would be there every step of the way & that I would grow from this & that others would benefit as well.

** Please do not assume your model mercedes is like this - My guess is that the design of the collar is the tell-all, hence the reason for the good photos.

Now you know this, and with this, you can reach satisfaction or failure with much less frustration. Thanks to all who encouraged me to "carry on".

Oh, putting it back on. Put tumbler in collar. Put in key & put to position 1, Slide the tool over the black tumbler clip, then place the assembly into the ignition switch with one hand while depressing the rounded detents in all the way with your fingers, line up the collar notch-out with the ignition switch notch & press into place. Instead, you can press the tool in all the way & try to catch the detents with it, but you are begging for trouble, the detents do fall out & probably will - but they go righ back in. You'll know how to line up the tumbler because the groove in the ignition swich tumbler socket is obviousely placed.

I'm stoked.

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the switch on the 420 does not have 2 holes for the U shaped tool . It only has one hole . Please respond open for suggestions. Victross

ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion
Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1065596

Everything he said - but stress the bevel on the end of the tool. There is no force required once the tool slides under the dogs. Just keep jiggleing the tool once you think your home. When you slide under the dogs the cover will be free with no force. If you pound on the tool you may damage or mash what you're trying to slide under.
So here's where I'm at - and only thanks to Mark- locks out and the little dog and spring at 7:00 are gone. I heard them tinkle, but can't find them. Also note in Mark's picture that they are missing. This may explain why some people have had success with just the top hole - It's been replaced once already - and the top keeper ring seems to release much easier. I'm not so sure the 7:00 dog is necessary anyway. The cover will hold tight enough, but the dog may help hold the lock? Anyway when the new lock arrives I'm going without it.
The WD may be OK, but it should not be all that cruddy in there. Just remember, pounding in frustration is not gonna help - just be patient and jiggle the sharpened coat hanger or what ever.

__________________
89 300E
79 240D
72 Westy
63 Bug sunroof
85 Jeep CJ7
86 Chevy 6.2l diesel PU

"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."
Marcus Aurelius

need the proper tool.Paper clips don't hack it.$3.50 delivered
if it does not get into the detents you will never remove the tumbler.
ohlord

Has anyone done this with success? I have a 93 300ce

bump!

I have a 91 190E with a stuck ignition tumbler. Can't turn to position 1.

__________________
Neil.


1991 190E 2.6 170k
1995 E320CA 57k
1999 Chevy Tahoe 98k
2000 R1150GS 45k
1983 300CD 178k - sold, but not forgotten

Tried again with the valet key, and after much jiggling finally managed to turn the ignition lock to position 1

Took less than 10 seconds to remove the tumbler and cover - using prongs made from an old bicyle spoke.

The problem on my tumbler is sticking pins. Will order a new one tomorrow!

Cheers!

__________________
Neil.


1991 190E 2.6 170k
1995 E320CA 57k
1999 Chevy Tahoe 98k
2000 R1150GS 45k
1983 300CD 178k - sold, but not forgotten

Hey Mark2590 I did just about all you mentioned. Made a couple of the tools, got the collar pretty loose but could not get it all the way out. After reading your posting again I noticed that I missed the part about removing a notch and it says see red arrow. Could you please tell me where this notch is. I don't see a red arrow on the picture. I'm sure soon as I remove that notch it will come right out.

I'm writing this to help future readers in there attempt to replace there ignition lock cylinder. Mine was on a W124. Others might be different.
The post I'm quoting is the single most informative post I read on the topic, read it first then read what I added at the bottom.

Here are my additions

1. I found that it's true that your first goal is to remove the black collar. Forget about the lock cylinder! You'll get it out easy once the collar is off.

2. You truly can turn the silver colored disc the key goes into without turning the whole lock cylinder and it doesn't ruin it. There is a small roll pin that holds it in place. You can insert a large screw driver SLIGHTLY into the key slot and twist it with a good amount of force and it will sheer the roll pin.

3. I used TWO pins made from a coat hanger to release the collar. The type of hanger I used was the kind that has the cardboard tube. They are a little smaller than a standard wire coat hanger. I put about a 45 degree angle on the one end and I used a hammer to gentle tap it all the way in.

4. I didn't find it necessary to turn the black collar or even pull on it.

5. You do need to pry the collar off at it's base. I used a wood chisel and a hammer. First I taped it straight in until there was a bit of a gap, then I held the chisel at an angle and taped the collar off.

Note, With the lock cylinder NOT turned to the 1 position the cylinder wont come off easily. There are two small recesses at the bottom of the lock cylinder that will NOT be in the right place to allow the two levers that keep the cylinder from coming off to descend into the base.

ALSO! I did this without removing the ignition lock cylinder housing from the car.

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http://www.michaelhyde.com/product_p/mb-cutter-tool-c.htm
$169.00
If you can't get the key to position number 1.

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__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Rather than using a screwdriver to twist the faceplate covering the key cylinder I made a tool by grinding down a bolt that had a shank big enough to emulate a very stubby key.


The dimensions of the rectangular stub are taken off a key, about 9mm by 3mm, and the stub length inserting into the keyhole is about 3mm. You want it to be deep enough to catch the faceplate, but not the cylinder behind it.


This bolt has 3/4" wrench size head... it was a super easy turn with a 3/4" wrench on this "key nut tool" to shear the tiny pin that keeps the faceplate oriented on the cylinder. One of those cases where it takes more than an hour to make a tool that you use for literally 3 seconds and you're done.

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__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Thanks for this write up - I was having major troubles getting my tumbler out. But I got it out 5 minutes after reading your write up. I had already started removing the whole stem before I read this.

__________________
1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

Hi. Well I have tried to remove the collar following the above steps.
However, I think I may be misisng something. I have a 1985 300E.
I have configured my bike spoke to fit into the 2 holes opposite each other that are on the outside of the ignition lock - but inside of the collar.
What I can't seem to do is to get the wire right into the end. This leads me to think that I have not positioned my key switch to position 1. (I had to use the screwdriver and crank it to position 1 as my keys were lost - long story).
Can someone confirm that key position 1 is the first groove on the collar (which sits around 11 o'clock)?
I used the red pipe from the can of WD-40 to see if i could feel for the holes being aligned but it wouldn't go in all the way either.
From reading forums there is mixed success on getting the thing to go in easily or having to work at it. Mine is the latter...assuming i have aligned it to position1 correctly in the first place.
So while I do this insertion, should I be trying to twist the collar off at the same time?
Please help....