Quote:
Originally Posted by William73
I'm writing this to help future readers in there attempt to replace there ignition lock cylinder. Mine was on a W124. Others might be different.
The post I'm quoting is the single most informative post I read on the topic, read it first then read what I added at the bottom.
Here are my additions
1. I found that it's true that your first goal is to remove the black collar. Forget about the lock cylinder! You'll get it out easy once the collar is off.
2. You truly can turn the silver colored disc the key goes into without turning the whole lock cylinder and it doesn't ruin it. There is a small roll pin that holds it in place. You can insert a large screw driver SLIGHTLY into the key slot and twist it with a good amount of force and it will sheer the roll pin.
3. I used TWO pins made from a coat hanger to release the collar. The type of hanger I used was the kind that has the cardboard tube. They are a little smaller than a standard wire coat hanger. I put about a 45 degree angle on the one end and I used a hammer to gentle tap it all the way in.
4. I didn't find it necessary to turn the black collar or even pull on it.
5. You do need to pry the collar off at it's base. I used a wood chisel and a hammer. First I taped it straight in until there was a bit of a gap, then I held the chisel at an angle and taped the collar off.
Note, With the lock cylinder NOT turned to the 1 position the cylinder wont come off easily. There are two small recesses at the bottom of the lock cylinder that will NOT be in the right place to allow the two levers that keep the cylinder from coming off to descend into the base.
ALSO! I did this without removing the ignition lock cylinder housing from the car.
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Rather than using a screwdriver to twist the faceplate covering the key cylinder I made a tool by grinding down a bolt that had a shank big enough to emulate a very stubby key.
The dimensions of the rectangular stub are taken off a key, about 9mm by 3mm, and the stub length inserting into the keyhole is about 3mm. You want it to be deep enough to catch the faceplate, but not the cylinder behind it.
This bolt has 3/4" wrench size head... it was a super easy turn with a 3/4" wrench on this "key nut tool" to shear the tiny pin that keeps the faceplate oriented on the cylinder. One of those cases where it takes more than an hour to make a tool that you use for literally 3 seconds and you're done.