Quote from Local Indy on Repairs. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

GradyService · #1 11-07-2007, 09:29 PM

A good friend of mine, also an Independent Import Mechanic, gave me a quote to replace both valve cover gaskets, change transmission fluid and filter, and replace vac. modulator seal, and oil change. He said, if I got the parts and fluid, 90.00 for the labor. I will be spending about 40.00 on the parts and fluids, so is 130.00 a good deal for that amount of work.

Thanks, Dave.

brewtoo · #2 11-07-2007, 10:39 PM

Very reasonable, IMHO.

Larry Delor · #3 11-07-2007, 10:41 PM

I wouldn't have a problem spending it.
Mostly because it would take me way longer to do those things, and I don't have a lift to do the modulator comfortably.

GradyService · #4 11-08-2007, 08:36 AM

Okay, here's another question. While he has the valve covers off, should I have him replace the timing chain. I have no evidence that it has ever been changed, and IIRC, on the M116-M117, at about 150-160k, the timing chains let go. Should I replace the tensioner, rails, and chain, or just the chain, or what?

Thanks, Dave.

kchemers · #5 11-08-2007, 09:14 AM

where are you getting tranny fluid, filter, gasket, oil, filter etc for less than $40.00??????????????

crhenkel · #6 11-08-2007, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GradyService

Okay, here's another question. While he has the valve covers off, should I have him replace the timing chain. I have no evidence that it has ever been changed, and IIRC, on the M116-M117, at about 150-160k, the timing chains let go. Should I replace the tensioner, rails, and chain, or just the chain, or what?

Thanks, Dave.

If your indy can do the timing chain for a good price and you have the cash, you should consider doing it and all the guides and rails. it is very good insurance. No way to determine if it will fail or not, just that it is potentially a distaster if it happens and it is more likely to happen to a car with that milage on it if it is the original chain. If you cant afford to fix it if it fails and you have the money to do the replacement now, i would condifer doing it at the right price if I were you. Sounds like his price might be reasonable to do the chain work.

halman2228 · #7 11-08-2007, 09:46 AM

... is what you're living on. The chain rails get brittle and break, chain jumps and parts go flying.

IIRC, its a specified maintenance item @ 100K...

Regards,
Kevin

GradyService · #8 11-08-2007, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kchemers

where are you getting tranny fluid, filter, gasket, oil, filter etc for less than $40.00??????????????

I may have underestimated that quote. I already have a case of Dexron 3, and a tranny kit that I bought last year, so I wasn't counting the cost of that. Bought V/C gaskets and Modulator O-Ring from rock auto for 16.00 with shipping. Will buy the oil and filter from Advance Auto, purolator filter about $4.50, Shell Rotella probably like 10.00 a gallon, so I'll be spending around 40.00. When you figure in the tranny fluid- $18.00, filter $10.00, I'll have around 70.00 in parts and 90 in labor.

In a related question, do I have to use the seal rings like this;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-280-380-420-450-500-560-VALVE-COVER-WASHER-SET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33665QQihZ009QQitemZ190082555821QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

or can I just use hardware store washers?

And, should I go to the local U-Pull and get a set of the aluminum valve covers from an older M116-M117, or should the stamped steel ones I have not be warped? And should I use an oe timing chain or a Aftermarket (beckarnley) chain?

Thanks, Dave.

slk230red · #9 11-08-2007, 10:22 AM

If I were you, I would replace the Vacuum Modulator and not just the VM seal, unless the VM is not that old.

Also, I was told that Beckarnley stuff is crap,(according to my parts guy) so definitely use a MB timing chain or something of equal quality.

My 2 cents

GradyService · #10 11-08-2007, 10:31 AM

Okay, I'll consider that.
Thanks.

Peter Guenther · #11 11-08-2007, 12:13 PM

I would get a genuine oil filter form sources like Fast Lane, just click on "buy parts", putting in a chain is fairly easy by using the old one and pulling the new one thru. To change tensioners the front cover needs to come off. I would not improvise by using hardware store washers, MB would not use them if they did not need to. Going Cheap, can cause you headaches, I would think your mechanic would give you better advice.

GradyService · #12 11-08-2007, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Guenther

I would get a genuine oil filter form sources like Fast Lane, just click on "buy parts", putting in a chain is fairly easy by using the old one and pulling the new one thru. To change tensioners the front cover needs to come off. I would not improvise by using hardware store washers, MB would not use them if they did not need to. Going Cheap, can cause you headaches, I would think your mechanic would give you better advice.

Well, cost is not really the determining factor in this. Availability is. I live 65 miles from the nearest MB dealer, and therefore, I can't just jump in the car every time I need an o-ring, to get it from them. (not to mention I don't see the difference between a 15 cent aftermarket o-ring and a 3.00 dealer one.) Also, my mechanic is a very busy man (only import mechanic in a 25 mile radius), and when he can work me in, I try to be ready for him. He would prefer if I got only OE parts, and I do try to for most things, but I haven't ever really thought much about who made my oil filter. I have used various manufacturers over the years, including Wix, Purolator, even Mann. It just was what I could get in short order. As far as the seal rings go, since they are considered to be important, I'll order some. And, if the brand of oil filter I use is important, I'll see about ordering a couple from Phil.

Thanks, Dave.

crhenkel · #13 11-08-2007, 02:22 PM

I dont want to start a debate or an arguement, i have seen this beat to death on the forum before....However, My opinion is simple... change your oil regularly and do it hot. Hot gets the viscosity to a point where more drains out and any build up is suspended in the oil not sitting in the engine. As for the brand of filter....I would much rather discuss the frequency and oil type and brand than who makes the filter. Change the oil, use the correct oil, and do the job well, if you end up using a different brand of filter everytime, it is still far better than not doing the oil or doing it right.

GradyService · #14 11-08-2007, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crhenkel

I dont want to start a debate or an arguement, i have seen this beat to death on the forum before....However, My opinion is simple... change your oil regularly and do it hot. Hot gets the viscosity to a point where more drains out and any build up is suspended in the oil not sitting in the engine. As for the brand of filter....I would much rather discuss the frequency and oil type and brand than who makes the filter. Change the oil, use the correct oil, and do the job well, if you end up using a different filter everytime, it is still far better than not doing the oil or doing it right.

Well, thats kind of what I thought. I change the oil every 3,000 miles. I Always use Shell Rotella T 15W40 (same oil has been used in this car, according to the maintenence book, since new), and I haven't ever had an oil pressure problem.

Thanks, Dave.